• You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will see less advertisements, have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

    If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.

EBR mounting kit or Buell regular mounting kit for EBR rotor ?

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

Niklos

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2015
Messages
123
Hi guys, I am back with another question...
So I bought the ZTL2 brake part to go with my ebr front rotor for my 2005 XB9SX. Unfortunatly, I have not been to bring the bike for maintenance yet. Will be next year probably. Anywas, so I am going to have :
full ZTL2 brake
EBR front brake rotor

I was wondering if I should use the EBR hardware mounting kit for the rotor. I was reading the forum and someone said that the EBR mounting would warp easier than the regular Buell mounting kit. The EBR kit would make the rotor fixed to the wheel instead of having it floating which would wrap the disk easier than when it is floating.
I want to make sure to have the best possible mounting. So should I use the brand new EBR mounting kit or my used regular Buell mounting kit ?

Thanks y'all !
 
Last edited:
Don't forget you'll need a 3/4" (19mm) master cylinder to match that ZTL2 caliper. You might as well get a radial style, the application won't matter just make sure its for 7/8" bars for easy mounting.

I have had very positive luck using the EBR solid mounting kit on several bikes. I doubt you'll notice a difference on the street, unless theres a problem with the existing stock 'floating' stuff. But I really liked he upgrade on track days. The rotor would blue while learning trail braking but not after the bolt kit. Not exactly a scientific test but it sold me:)

I have no idea what internet expert thinks solid mounting a rotor will warp a wheel. The solid mounting kit was designed for the EBR race team so I would tend to believe the engineers who built the bike to know more than a internet poster (this includes me as well:eagerness:)
 
Don't forget you'll need a 3/4" (19mm) master cylinder to match that ZTL2 caliper. You might as well get a radial style, the application won't matter just make sure its for 7/8" bars for easy mounting.
Sure, I bought the full ZTL2 brake including master cylinder (H0507.1AMD), brake line (H1531.4AK) and caliper (H1110.1AMZT). Everything from HD St Paul, and I told him the exact bike I have so everything should be fine !



I have had very positive luck using the EBR solid mounting kit on several bikes. I doubt you'll notice a difference on the street, unless theres a problem with the existing stock 'floating' stuff. But I really liked he upgrade on track days. The rotor would blue while learning trail braking but not after the bolt kit. Not exactly a scientific test but it sold me:)

I have no idea what internet expert thinks solid mounting a rotor will warp a wheel. The solid mounting kit was designed for the EBR race team so I would tend to believe the engineers who built the bike to know more than a internet poster (this includes me as well:eagerness:)

Then it is gonna be mount with the EBR hardware kit ! Thanks !

It is so hard to wait until next servicing !
 
Last edited:
Why wait!?
Shouldn’t take but an hour to change out the entire front brake set up.
No special tools required.
Why wait?
Because I dont know how to do it :D. And I need also to change the entire brake including fluid and I dont know how to do it. And my local dealer is at about an hour drive, maybe even a little more and is really slow to work. But he is doing a great job and as it is really hard to find someone that knows how to deal with buells, I want to see THIS dealer.




There are 2 different hardware mounting kits. One is specific to the EBR 1190 setup, the other is for 1125/XB's. If you get the 1190 kit, you'll have to turn down the mounting points to mount it properly.

This is the kit you need to do it correctly. https://dieselmoto.com/products/front-rotor-installation-kit

Well this is the kit I ordered and I ordered it from that seller :D
 
Doing the brakes on a motorcycle isn't difficult. Open the bleeder screw on the caliper (attach a clear hose to drain to a pan first) and pump the brake lever until it stops spitting out brake fluid.
Open the reservoir to verify it's empty. Disconnect everything and remove it. Install the new parts, torque everything to spec. Might be easiest to do one component at a time, start at the top (master cylinder) first and work down.
Reconnect all the brake line fittings. Fill the reservoir about 3/4 full, might be a good idea to cover the frame/tank and misc parts around it all with a plastic bag and a few shop rags on top of the bag to catch any stray fluid.
Start pumping the brake lever. Air will rise, fluid will travel down. Keep at it, it typically takes me maybe 10 minutes to get all the little air bubbles out at most.

Look on youtube, there's plenty of vids on how to do it if you're not sure, but you don't need to be a rocket scientist to do this stuff.
 
Well no, I dont want to have anything to do with brakes. And I actually dont have the tools to do it. American tools are not the same size as the one we have in Europe.
edit : and now that I think about it, my insurance wants it to be done by a professional to keep insuring the bike.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top