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ECM correction after new fuel pump

Buellxb Forum

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It's an 07. So I was reading about the trouble code in the 08 electrical system diagnostics manual. After reading more, it sounds like this code means cam sync failure in the earlier models. I'm having trouble finding a cam position sensor for a 2007. Could only find the 08 and up crank position sensors.
 
RidetheLightning said:
It's an 07. So I was reading about the trouble code in the 08 electrical system diagnostics manual. After reading more, it sounds like this code means cam sync failure in the earlier models. I'm having trouble finding a cam position sensor for a 2007. Could only find the 08 and up crank position sensors.
Click to expand...

The 08 models have DDFI-3 (or DDFI-2 if you ask Cooter) and use a trigger off the crank (CKP). The 07 and earlier models use a cam sensor to trigger.


I would still first go after what that Cooter guy and upaero suggested. If you really think its the cam sensor, let me know and I have one you can borrow. But if you cook it, you took it (haha lame rhyme).
 
34nineteen said:
The 08 models have DDFI-3 (or DDFI-2 if you ask Cooter) and use a trigger off the crank (CKP). The 07 and earlier models use a cam sensor to trigger.


I would still first go after what that Cooter guy and upaero suggested. If you really think its the cam sensor, let me know and I have one you can borrow. But if you cook it, you took it (haha lame rhyme).
Click to expand...

Thanks for bringing me back. I keep moving around but have been leaving out some things that I checked and forgot to mention along the way. When I took the bike around the neighborhood the second time (after re-loading map and TPS reset), idled perfectly and all low speed coughing was gone. Ran great until 4k rpms. Took home, checked codes, and turned out the short to ground codes were all historical, contrary to my previous statement of saying they were current. Cleared the codes, started it in my driveway, and idled perfectly again. AFV on live data (idling, not riding), showed it was still at 100%. Didn't take it out for a ride, but revved it a bit after it was warm and still coughed and backfired once I got above 4k rpms. The code this time was 56 - sync failure. Tried starting it again immediately after, and it wasn't starting. Let it sit maybe 30 seconds and tried again and fired right up and idled perfectly. Note that all startups after installing the fuel pump have been immediately successful up to this point. To cooter's point, all connections seemed solid when re-installing the pump, but it could be a possibility. Trying to rule out all I can before pulling the damn thing out again. I replaced all o-rings, regulator, sock (previous sock was not disintegrating), pump to regulator hose, pump, and low level sensor. I may try to get my hands on a pressure tester to ensure I'm getting adequate pressure. It doesn't look like AFV has changed from 100, but I'm not sure how it takes for the ECM to start changing it while the bike is running, so I can't completely rule out a lean scenario that upaero mentioned. Other thing I could do is clear code again and replicate issue to see if it repeats trouble code 56, but I don't necessarily want to keep making this thing backfire and die.
 
If you want to throw parts at it, crank sensors are cheap, and pull off the timing cover to see if it got loose and rattling around. Follow those wires up to the ECM, coulda got smashed.
 
Cooter said:
If you want to throw parts at it, crank sensors are cheap, and pull off the timing cover to see if it got loose and rattling around. Follow those wires up to the ECM, coulda got smashed.
Click to expand...

Looks like the first part I'm throwing at it is a battery. Bike wouldn't start last night so took it to local o'reilly to get charged/tested (which I had already done about a week ago after the voltage code). Turns out they only charged last time, never tested. Tested bad. Bummed because it was my first Deka, and I only bought it one year and one month ago. It could have been a couple factors, though. Had it on a cheap battery tender when I wasn't riding much over the summer, which I now know may not have been a good idea, and bought it on Amazon, which could have been suspect. Fingers crossed this was causing my electrical issues.
 
A bad battery can most certainly cause weird issues, BUT Deka is a good brand (all batteries die) and those electronic battery testers they use at those places are not meant for motorcycle batteries and are misused to boot.

Perform a simple starting/charging test and you'll know yourself. A voltmeter can be bought for as much as FREE with a coupon at Harbor freight.Put it on the battery:

Resting voltage should rear above 12v
Cranking voltage should be above 9.6V. Does it do the Buell crank/pause/crank crank?
Charging voltage at 2500rpm should be 13.5-14.7V

If it passes all those, you're good to go.

If you have a dead battery all the time, remove the negative and put the voltmeter leads between the terminal and wire. Set to AMPS on the lowest scale, should be less than 0.5amps (less than 500 milliamps).
 
I'm not surprised that the ECM would start malfunctioning due to low voltage from the bad battery.... however, it shouldnt have been able to start back up... the starter requires much more current than the ECM.

That said, batteries going south can do some wonky things. Replace the battery, but I would still be on the lookout for something else.
 
Last edited:
Ordered a new Deka battery, hoping it was an anomaly, or due to intermittent use of the battery tender. I read someone saying that if you use a tender it should always be connected, so maybe that was it.
 
A battery won't care if you plug in or unplug a charger a bunch of times. It charge cycles every time you start the bike anyway.

BUT

Freezing, overcharging or letting it get real dead are all battery killers (no matter the brand), and cheaper 'floating ground' Tenders can over/under charge your battery easily.

IMO if it's going to sit, put a good quality Tender on the bike and use the patented Lunatic Lamp Mod. Put it on a lamp timer to be on about 8 hours a day and rest the remainder. 0.5Amp/hr for 8 hours should be way more than enough to recover from any parasitic draw and keep it topped off. If it freezes at night, you don't want it charging then, so set the timer to be on for when it's warmer.
 
So got a new battery in and idled/revved great up to 5k rpm, then revs died, backfired and engine died eventually. Voltage was between 13.5 and 14 the entire time, and power loss was abrupt at relatively specific rpm's. Every time it would die and backfire the check engine would flash, and it's showing the same code 56 sync failure. Could this be anything but the cam sensor?
 

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