ECM Droid gurus...a couple of quick questions

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vicenzajay

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For you experts....I think I did this correctly, but I want to check to be sure (did a lot of reading here first).

The bike - 2009 XB12R...Drummer exhaust/Airbox delete/race ECM

I wanted to follow the advice here and disable the low speed fan cutoff.

I did just that (clear the checkbox) using the buelltooth dongle and the ECM Droid app on the phone. I then selected the options to allow me to upload that change (and only burn changed pages) - then updated the ECM. I shut everything down, fired up everything again, and reconnected with the app. Box is cleared.

So the questions - when 'burning' the change to the ECM, I got a box saying "exhaust is broken" on the app. No trouble codes...none stored, none thrown.

I'm assuming this is because of the Drummer exhaust and the lack of the IAV interface with the exhaust - is that correct?

If so, I saw some IAV options in my ECM program - do I need to check those and clear all those boxes as well?

Thanks for the help.

Jay
 
Hi Jay,
I was getting that "Broken Pipe" message too until I figured out that you have to disconnect the tablet after each use else the next time you will get the "Broken Pipe" message. Seems it has nothing to do with the pipe!
Hope that helps, I don't remember the actual steps I took and I don't have an Android device any more but I'm sure if you dick around with disconnecting it each time you'll figure it out...
Cheers.
~ross
 
I that what you mean? "Broken pipe"? Because it has nothing to do with the exhaust, Lol.

The "pipe" it's referring to is the communication pipe between the bike and the tablet. Once you turn off the bike the dongle loses power and you'll get a "broken pipe" message until you re-connect. Simply hit the green button (lower right) and then hit it again to reconnect. If you get that message when burning the ECM, the ECM didn't take the burn so you need to re-connect and do it again.

By "low speed fan cut off" do you mean speed based fan control? ECM parameters/general/limits/fan/uncheck 'speed based fan control'.

If your Drummer doesn't have the IEV, simply checking the "disable IEV" will stop the code 21 from showing up.

You can burn the whole .xpr file an unlimited amount of times and it doesn't take more that 10 seconds, so I don't bother just burning the changes, I burn the whole thing. YMMV.
 
Okay, Cooter - that helps.

Yes - those are the messages (the wording)...

I'll try that right now and report back....
 
Okay - still have some questions.

First - the speed based fan control item is taken care of (it's unchecked with a successful burn).

I cannot find "disable IEV" anywhere in the app. All I can find is a page with items like "exhaust valve enabled", "on at WOT", "off at ____", etc. Is that the spot? What should be checked or unchecked on that page? Note that this is a Drummer exhaust (no IEV interface).

Thanks in advance. One note - it might be helpful for those of us who really don't want to delve too deep (i.e. I'm not interested in 'tuning' anything manually with regard to AFV values) to have a sticky with the most common 'tweaks' to options within the ECM for the most optimal engine running/life/maintenance/etc. variables.

I think Cooter or Lowkey or some of the other gurus could do that in about 10 minutes and make it incredibly easy for the layman to at least set their machine up for mechanical success. Note that I'm not talking about power/etc. I'm referring to things like the later model XBs having that speed based cutoff on the fan (when the best time for the fan to be running is at low speed). That kind of thing.

Thanks again for the help.
Jay
 
Yes, Uncheck "exhaust valve enabled" which will dis-able the exhaust valve solenoid and mask the CEL for code 21. The rest of those boxes in that section are moot now.

Thats a good idea, but everyones options will be different for what applies to them. I would like to stress that even though 98% of Buellers only need to install a fuel map that matches their intake and exhaust mods, they forget its a whole file and the ECM parameters change as well. Going through the options (as you are) is a necessary step, especially resetting AFV values to 100.
 
Can you elaborate on the AFV values (and where/what to do to set them to 100)? Again, I'm not wanting to delve too deeply, but what 'should' I do? I can see a very large number of places within the app addressing AFV values, so I could use some help being pointed towards the correct place to do that.

thanks again - Jay

edit - just for the record - I've successfully unchecked the "exhaust valve enabled" option and re-burnt the file to the ECM.
 
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Is the AFV setting we're discussing the 'single' setting under "rear cylinder" (or something like that). Mine is at 83.9 or so.

I should add that I (every 6 months at the season change (early spring/late fall) do a TPS reset (the easy late XB model reset), and then do a 'learning ride' as advised by John (lunaticfringe).

Should I reset the rear to 100 and then do another learning ride (following TPS reset)?

Lastly - I should note that the bike is running *very well...and has run *very well for almost 2 years at this point. I'm not trying to correct anything! I just wanted the fan to run more effectively - which caused me to start the quest into ECM droid.
 
When you burn a new map, it comes with the whole .xpr file and that includes more info than just fueling (like ECM parameters and AFV values).
Anytime you burn a map, double check those settings.

Yes, the AFV is just a single number for the rear cylinder on your bike, change it to 100 and your bike will run much better. 83.9 is super lean, I have no idea why your bike did that.

IMHO TPS re-sets are unnecessary that often, but it's not hurting anything. TPS doesn't need any learning, but a new fuel tune will.

At the bottom of the O2 settings page, you'll see an adjustment range for the AFV. I think stock it's set a 60 to 150. Thats ridiculous! Bikes won't hardly run at the ends of that range! I narrow that range to 85-115.
 
Yes, the AFV is just a single number for the rear cylinder on your bike, change it to 100 and your bike will run much better. 83.9 is super lean, I have no idea why your bike did that.

From the way I read it you have not changed the AFV before and been on this map for a while or forever correct? The AFV value of 83.9 is pulling roughly 16% across your fuel maps. If it was me, I would want to figure out why this much fuel is being pulled and I would first look at a failing 02 sensor being the cause.

At the bottom of the O2 settings page, you'll see an adjustment range for the AFV. I think stock it's set a 60 to 150. Thats ridiculous! Bikes won't hardly run at the ends of that range! I narrow that range to 85-115.

Indeed it is a wide window but it is set to compensate for say a bad 02 or intake seal leak, under a properly working bike like you say you would never hit these parameters but there is also no benefit to change them to a tighter window either IMO.
 
Okay - all good information. Thanks for the help.

Lowkey - yes, I've not changed the map at all since buying the bike (its configuration hasn't changed either). I would certainly be willing to install another map if you have one (Drummer SS, K&N Filter and airbox delete/catch can installed).

Like I said, the bike runs very, very smooth as is...no stumbling, barking or roughness anywhere. It pulls very nicely as well (of course, I wouldn't know if it should be pulling *better). Idle is spot on at 1050 - and it has no issues maintaining idle at all. It also cools down *very fast (and the plugs looked great last year when I replaced them), so I don't think the bike is actually (i.e. in real life) running lean at all.

Does that info help?

Again, thanks for the help...

I'll make those changes (AFV to 100% and a bit of a limit to the outside numbers). I'll also report back. :)
 
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Well all I can say is if you are on stock non race fuel/timing maps and running those mods listed you should be seeing AFV around 110-118 not less than 100 as you have right now. I don't make maps or anything like that... I've simply converted race map fuel/timing onto non race ECM's (BUEIB) for a couple members in .xpr format. If you find a map that you think would work with your mods and don't have the application to flash the ECM for the format it is in I can give you a hand on changing it to something that will work for the application you do use.

If the above sounds right to you, my guess is you have an issue somewhere with the bike making the ECM pull fuel... off the top of my head this would be failing 02 sensor, stuck/leaking injector, rise in regulated fuel pressure, tps values referencing the wrong fuel cells or a map set to rich for your bike.

If you are around 15K it is recommended to change the 02 by Al from American sport bike. Hope that helps! :up:
 
Copy...bike has about 14,100 miles on it (I've put 7,000 of those on it after buying it in early July of 2015).

It's a race ecm, so I'm fairly certain it's not a stock map. I have the BUE2D firmware on my ECM.

No worries - I'll look for a map (they're out there). I'll get back to you as I should have everything needed to flash it to the bike (Buelltooth, ECMdroid, etc.).

For reference (I know it's on the site here, but I'll ask anyhow), do you have the O2 sensor part number handy? I'll do a search, but it might be useful to have it in the thread should others find it during their own searches.
 
I mis-read and thought it was running poorly. Glad it's running well. If the ECM is pulling 16% of fuel across the whole map, I believe theres an issue with the bike. That is a ton of fuel. Set the AFV to 100 and do your learn routine, check it again. Maybe an O2 like lowkey said. You can check your O2 in the live data section to see if it's weak or lazy before just swapping parts.

I slightly narrow the adjustment window for the AFV for a few reasons and none have anything to do with a bike that runs well:).

Firstly, I feel that the 30% fueling sweep (85%-115%) is way more than plenty for any altitude or temperature change my bike would ever see. Second, if the ECM is compensating for a problem by adding 150% of fuel or pulling 40%, I'd like to know so I can fix it. Third, I treat my XB as a beta tester, so if I mod something and don't get the result I want, the bike will still run without going way lean (60) and smoking something, or way rich (150) and flooding something. I'm just putting realistic limits on a major adjustment, the ECM can still compensate.

Remember main jets in a carb? You only ever need to go up or down a couple sizes, so It's like letting the ECM pick from 30 of them instead of 90(!).

If you go through your learn routine and the AFV is still 100, you're good to go.
 
Found the part numbers from another thread:

02 sensor for buell XB from GM delco #25162693
GM OEM= 8990469 superseded to 25162693
Bosch= 12014
Walker= 250-21001
Denso= 234-1001
Airtex= 553071
SNG= SN1-15
NTK= 21002
 
Thanks, Cooter - sounds good. I'll do that.

Like I said, I'll report back. Weather is looking iffy until Thursday, so it might be a few days before I can get a good ride in to see how it all goes.
 
One thing I should also mention is that I live at 2100 feet (above MSL). I'm sure that's got a bit to do with it, so we'll see what happens with the reset and learning ride.
 
For sure - just wanting to be aware of all the variables...

I'll report back once I get a chance to see what's going on.

Of note - the burn (afv to 100 and limits of 85-115) went well.
 
vicenzajay, I use the Bosch 12014


I slightly narrow the adjustment window for the AFV for a few reasons and none have anything to do with a bike that runs well:).

Firstly, I feel that the 30% fueling sweep (85%-115%) is way more than plenty for any altitude or temperature change my bike would ever see. Second, if the ECM is compensating for a problem by adding 150% of fuel or pulling 40%, I'd like to know so I can fix it. Third, I treat my XB as a beta tester, so if I mod something and don't get the result I want, the bike will still run without going way lean (60) and smoking something, or way rich (150) and flooding something. I'm just putting realistic limits on a major adjustment, the ECM can still compensate.

Remember main jets in a carb? You only ever need to go up or down a couple sizes, so It's like letting the ECM pick from 30 of them instead of 90(!).

If you go through your learn routine and the AFV is still 100, you're good to go.

AFV constantly is adjusting over time so resetting it to 100 isn't going to help anything, you stated you've had this tune for some time so no reason to think magic is going to happen by resetting AFV to 100.

Would you rather narrow the AFV window to the point of blowing the motor? That wide window is for safety. If, say you lock it at 90-110 and the intake seals blow out, say goodbye to the motor as it can't add fuel to compensate. There is no benefit to narrowing the window at all. If you are in tune with a properly working bike there is no worries about not catching an issue, most of the sensors will throw a code. If intake seals blow out you get rev hang etc...
 
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