Finally for the XB today

[Boaski]

After months of waiting to get it home & then a couple weeks getting stuff fixed, I finally took a short ride on the XB today. It was actually my first ride on a Buell as well. I have a few minor adjustments to make, but still a big step forward.



This first thing on the list is take the front master cylinder apart and see why it is sticking. The previous owner had problems with the front brake sticking, but evidently didn't get it fixed. Thankfully it happened as I was pulling into the garage rather than on my stone driveway (unlike the time on my GT380...). When it stuck I was unable to squeeze the brake lever at all. After it sat for a few hours it seemed to bleed off, so we'll see if has some crud in a passage.

On another note: what have you guys been using for replacement mirrors. Mine are in bad shape and need replacing.

 

[Boaski]

Title should say "Finally rode the XB today". Covid shot must've fried my brain. At least that's the excuse I'm going to use.

 

[Outlaw]

Looks nice

 

[34nineteen]

Does it have aftermarket brake/clutch levers on it? If so, start there as some of the aftermarket levers cause the front brake to drag, and then overheat, then lock up.

If the piston is sticking, you can get a rebuild kit from St Paul or maybe even all balls. Sometimes the seals get sticky when they get old. The kits are cheap and the rebuild is pretty quick and easy, but you may need to buy a set of snap ring pliers as I’ve found most of them do not work for the rebuild.

Almost all of my XB’s have had sticking pistons in the front caliper. I usually just pop them out with compressed air, thoroughly clean and reinstall, and they usually work great after that.

 

[34nineteen]

I like regular bar end mirrors. Some like the Aprilia Tuono mirrors.

 

[Cooter]

Does it have aftermarket brake/clutch levers on it?

Thats my guess. Make sure you have a little clearance between the lever an MC piston, or grind some, or replace the levers.

 

[Barrett]

1-standard 1/2" bore Nissin front m/c. should have both B5E and "1/2" molded into the underside of the m/c body. simply rebuild it with OEM kit # N0220.F---suffix L19C. several hundred still in factory parts system. all dealers available.


USE DOT 4!!!

your front brake lever appears stock. should not be any clearance issue between lever pad and m/c piston tip. clean and lube lever and perch pivot point....perch pin....lever adjuster thumb-wheel.

 

[Lusiphur]

I like the Rizoma Mirrors if you want to keep them in the stock mounting location and CRG makes some nice bar end mirrors

 

[34nineteen]

Barrett is right (as usual). Those do look like stock levers. My money is now on the sticky piston.

 

[Boaski]

Thank you for the replies. Here are some better pictures of the master cylinder.

 

[34nineteen]

When you remove the lever you will see There is a boot around the M/C piston that once removed will reveal the circlip holding the piston assembly in place. If you’re clever you can remove and replace the piston and seals without even removing the M/C from the bike. Easy peasy.

 

[Boaski]

I decided to go ahead and pull the caliper and master cylinder off as I want to clean them both out well. Speaking of cleaning: spray can brake parts cleaner damage these parts?

 

[34nineteen]

I would recommend isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle.

 

[Cooter]

It is called "Brake parts cleaner" for a reason. LOL

A caliper re-build is just as simple as the master, and you can check the pistons for corrosion and pitting causing them to stick, if they are out.

I have a complete ZTL caliper if you need one.

 

[34nineteen]

I dont know if I'd want it getting on painted surfaces... especially if he uses the good stuff (CRC) like that mike lowary guy.

I use the el cheapo store brand stuff.... it has the cleaning power of dishwashing liquid, with enough force coming out of the can to splash back into my eyes.

In the mountain bike world, we use isopropyl alchohol to clean brake fluid off surfaces to prevent damage to the finish. Some MTB disc brake systems use DOT 4/5.1... and some use mineral oil.

 

[Boaski]

It is called "Brake parts cleaner" for a reason. LOL

A caliper re-build is just as simple as the master, and you can check the pistons for corrosion and pitting causing them to stick, if they are out.

I have a complete ZTL caliper if you need one.

Thanks for the offer. I'm checking with my local HD dealer to see if they can get the rebuild kits. If they don't I'll just order them from St Pauls and pay the shipping.

 

[34nineteen]

Thanks for the offer. I'm checking with my local HD dealer to see if they can get the rebuild kits. If they don't I'll just order them from St Pauls and pay the shipping.

If you are going that route, you may want to bring the part # with you and just not mention that its for a Buell unless they ask. If you ask the counter guy for a Buell part, you may get the usual glazed eye look of disappointment (or you may get the rare excited look from an enthusiast). They may not have Buell catalogs, especially if they were never a Buell dealer back in the day... so they may not be able to look it up for you anyhow. YMMV.

tl;dr bring the part # with you.

 

[Boaski]

I went to the St Paul HD website and rounded up all of the needed part numbers. I sent an email to our local HD dealer parts department with all the info. I haven't heard back from them yet. I stopped there to get oil & filter for it a couple weeks ago. The parts guy knew what bike I was talking about. Hale's HD in Mansfield is an old dealer that sold quite a few Buells back in the day. They started out selling Rupp (which was also made in Mansfield). It was a trip to Hale's in 1999 that started me thinking I needed a Buell.

 

[Boaski]

Hales would need to order everything. They’re running about 16 days for delivery at the moment so I ordered from St Paul. Hopefully they have it in stock

 

[34nineteen]

St Pauls is usually good about keeping Buell parts in stock.