Boaski
Well-known member
If I would have known how much gunk was in there I wouldn't have run it up the road.
Finally for the XB today
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kz6fittycent
Well-known member
I've seen worse...and ridden worse!
Oh yeah, that’s my point about the calipers always having sticky pistons. By now most look like crap.
I’ve never split the caliper to do it though. Not saying you’re wrong, I’ve just never had to take it that far.
I’ve never split the caliper to do it though. Not saying you’re wrong, I’ve just never had to take it that far.
People obsess over which $20 quart of oil is the best, but never bother flushing brake fluid. NEVER. Don't they know stopping is more important than going?
Glad you got it apart to clean right :up:
Glad you got it apart to clean right :up:
Boaski
Well-known member
It actually looks much worse in person than the picture shows. I cleaned out the master cylinder reservoir and ran new fluid through it last weekend. Even though everything ran clear while bleeding it, there was obviously still more in there. In this case the worst of the gunk was in the "inside" half of the caliper. Since the only way in or out for the brake fluid on that side is the little transfer passage, I don't think I could have cleaned all of the old fluid out without splitting the caliper and popping out the pistons.
After seeing this I'm going to go ahead and order a rebuild kit for the rear caliper as well.
I like being able to stop when I need to. I also really like being the one deciding when the brakes are applied rather than it happening when I don't expect it.
After seeing this I'm going to go ahead and order a rebuild kit for the rear caliper as well.
I like being able to stop when I need to. I also really like being the one deciding when the brakes are applied rather than it happening when I don't expect it.
The pistons can be popped out and removed without splitting the caliper, but yes, for the most thorough cleaning I would split the caliper.
Boaski
Well-known member
My front master cylinder and caliper rebuild parts arrived from St. Paul HD. While I was waiting for the stuff to arrive I managed to clean up the caliper and master cylinder. While cleaning the master cylinder I found the the teeny vent hole was plugged. I ended up grinding a sewing needed down to a smaller diameter to pick away at the hard stuff in there until I could work a .020" diameter torch tip cleaner through it. I feel like this and goop in the caliper was the reason for the brake sticking.
Here's a question: I think there was a dried up o ring on the then of the end of the Hanger Pin ("1" on figure 2-47 in the 2005 Lightning service manual). I have not been able find any description of it. Does anyone know the dash number?
Here's a question: I think there was a dried up o ring on the then of the end of the Hanger Pin ("1" on figure 2-47 in the 2005 Lightning service manual). I have not been able find any description of it. Does anyone know the dash number?
I think its part of the pin, but you should be able to go to a hardware store such as Ace and find a suitable replacement.
https://st-paul-harley-davidson-bue...ell~md_lightning-xb9sx~yt_front-&-rear-brakes
https://st-paul-harley-davidson-bue...ell~md_lightning-xb9sx~yt_front-&-rear-brakes
That tiny hole is the "equalization port" and will most DEFINITELY cause a brake sticking issue. Congrats on finding that and a cheap set of jewelers drill bits is perfect for that job:eagerness:
Boaski
Well-known member
The brakes are back together. Going to do a couple rounds of bleeding to get the fine bubbles out.
Did a TPS reset and took it easy up the rod and back. After I got back I noticed it would rev to about 2K when I pulled the clutch in. I could drop it back to 1K by putting a little drag on the engine. I hooked the Buelltooth up to it and the AFV is 110%. Intake seals?
Did a TPS reset and took it easy up the rod and back. After I got back I noticed it would rev to about 2K when I pulled the clutch in. I could drop it back to 1K by putting a little drag on the engine. I hooked the Buelltooth up to it and the AFV is 110%. Intake seals?
Does it run OK? Why would you do a TPS re-set? It's a whole procedure on the pre-'08 bikes, did you follow the manual? It can cause a hanging idle if you just punch the "TPS re-set" button.
AFV is a global adjustment of the fuel map and the ECM needs to adjust to many conditions and parameters. AFV is not supposed to sit at 100 and IMO 110 is not nearly off enough to need a repair. Sure, check your intake seals, wiggle wires, buy sensors, whatever. Have fun in the garage, IMO you're looking for problems.
AFV is a global adjustment of the fuel map and the ECM needs to adjust to many conditions and parameters. AFV is not supposed to sit at 100 and IMO 110 is not nearly off enough to need a repair. Sure, check your intake seals, wiggle wires, buy sensors, whatever. Have fun in the garage, IMO you're looking for problems.
Boaski
Well-known member
This bike has sat for most of the last 6 or 7 years. It's become evident that it has sat outside for at least one of those years. I bought it cheap, so I figured there would be issues.
It starts hard when it's cold & I have to move the throttle a little to find the spot that it will fire. After it warms up a little it starts easily. When reading through other posts in this forum one of the first thing people talk about doing is a TPS reset so I figured that would be an easy place to start. I followed the Buelltooth instructions.
My main engine experience is with 2 strokes. Hanging at a higher RPM and then settling down to a steady lower RPM when the choke is blipped or a load is placed on the engine points to a lean condition on what I'm used to working on. Again, reading other posts on here usually brought up intake seals being cracked.
I guess I can see where you think I'm "looking for problems". Not really the case. If something isn't right & needs fixed: I am ready to do that. I'll figure it out.
It starts hard when it's cold & I have to move the throttle a little to find the spot that it will fire. After it warms up a little it starts easily. When reading through other posts in this forum one of the first thing people talk about doing is a TPS reset so I figured that would be an easy place to start. I followed the Buelltooth instructions.
My main engine experience is with 2 strokes. Hanging at a higher RPM and then settling down to a steady lower RPM when the choke is blipped or a load is placed on the engine points to a lean condition on what I'm used to working on. Again, reading other posts on here usually brought up intake seals being cracked.
I guess I can see where you think I'm "looking for problems". Not really the case. If something isn't right & needs fixed: I am ready to do that. I'll figure it out.
Like you mentioned... Check for intake manifold seal leaks. They are cheap (even from HD) and should be in stock. Some recommend the blue James seals with the "lips" on the bottom. I find those difficult to fit onto an XB motor if you dont rotate it or remove it from the frame. But if you insist on using them, pick up a set of stock seals also. I dont know about the independent shops, but most HD dealers will should take them back and refund your money if you dont use them. It would suck to be knee deep into the project to find out the blue seals arent going to work for you. Again, not saying the blue seals are bad, but they can be a pain to fit with the motor in place.
When you rev it up a little, and then close the throttle, you are creating high vacuum in the manifold. If a seal is getting flaky, it can cause air to leak air into the manifold.
IMO, if it sat for 6 or 7 years, you should be looking for problems. Find them while you are sitting in your garage, at your convenience... as opposed to sitting on the side of the road when you need to be somewhere else.
When you rev it up a little, and then close the throttle, you are creating high vacuum in the manifold. If a seal is getting flaky, it can cause air to leak air into the manifold.
IMO, if it sat for 6 or 7 years, you should be looking for problems. Find them while you are sitting in your garage, at your convenience... as opposed to sitting on the side of the road when you need to be somewhere else.
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Knowing all the information now, changes my response as well. We're here to help, and sitting is very hard on motorcycles.
Did you turn the idle screw to zero the throttle blades first? Sorry I don't know what the "Buelltooth instructions" are, I hope they match the service manual.
Buellmods.com
IMO 110 AFV is still normal and intake seals leaking badly enough to matter would make it much higher. FYI AFV figure should be checked after a very long ride. It will be skewed if it's just started cold a lot and only ridden short distances. It won't have a chance to adjust correctly.
Did you turn the idle screw to zero the throttle blades first? Sorry I don't know what the "Buelltooth instructions" are, I hope they match the service manual.
Buellmods.com
IMO 110 AFV is still normal and intake seals leaking badly enough to matter would make it much higher. FYI AFV figure should be checked after a very long ride. It will be skewed if it's just started cold a lot and only ridden short distances. It won't have a chance to adjust correctly.
He's probably referring to the TPS reset instructions on the screen when you press the reset TPS button on ECMDroid.
kz6fittycent
Well-known member
Boaski
Well-known member
I used Dot 4.
"He's probably referring to the TPS reset instructions on the screen when you press the reset TPS button on ECMDroid"
Correct. I used the wrong terminology, my mistake.
I noticed the throttle felt "sticky" in spots. I took off the right grip assembly and found this:
Evidently the PO used some adhesive to keep the grip on when he replaced the twist grip after the slide. The adhesive got on the inside of the twist tube and the outside of the handlebars. It works much easier now that I got the crud cleaned up.
Cold and rainy outside tonight so I didn't ride. Hopefully some decent weather this weekend to see how it is to ride it more than a mile or so.
"He's probably referring to the TPS reset instructions on the screen when you press the reset TPS button on ECMDroid"
Correct. I used the wrong terminology, my mistake.
I noticed the throttle felt "sticky" in spots. I took off the right grip assembly and found this:
Evidently the PO used some adhesive to keep the grip on when he replaced the twist grip after the slide. The adhesive got on the inside of the twist tube and the outside of the handlebars. It works much easier now that I got the crud cleaned up.
Cold and rainy outside tonight so I didn't ride. Hopefully some decent weather this weekend to see how it is to ride it more than a mile or so.
1 demerit for using incorrect nomenclature.
FYI... Three demerits, and you'll receive a citation. Five citations, and you're looking at a violation. Four of those, and you'll receive a verbal warning. Keep it up, and you're looking at a written warning. Two of those, that will land you in a world of hurt, in the form of a disciplinary review, written up by me, and placed on the desk of my immediate superior, Barrett.
Btw what handlebar is that? Asking for a friend.
Seriously though, keep up the good work.
FYI... Three demerits, and you'll receive a citation. Five citations, and you're looking at a violation. Four of those, and you'll receive a verbal warning. Keep it up, and you're looking at a written warning. Two of those, that will land you in a world of hurt, in the form of a disciplinary review, written up by me, and placed on the desk of my immediate superior, Barrett.
Btw what handlebar is that? Asking for a friend.
Seriously though, keep up the good work.
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njloco
Well-known member
What'ed he say ?
Barrett
Well-known member
Aaron: exceptional performance and exacting "run-down" of the board disciplinary procedures, on your part. keep a watchful eye, please. any future significant misnomers by this BoatSki individual and he might qualify for....................................
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