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"FNG" XB12 owner w/?'s

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

I now NRHS is in Colorado. Just not sure exactly where.
Sounds like you have a heat related issue.
If you're sure the O2 is good and you're positive the CPS is working correctly then I'd start trouble shooting the head temp sensor.
However, before running out and buying any parts run a diagnostic with ECMspy, or droid, to see if you have any stored codes from your last ride.
Good luck
 
^^^^^check for stored codes. When I installed new led headlights I removed the front fairing and unplugged the BAS. I plugged it back in and bolted everything back together. I went for a ride and it stalled between 5-6k. Went back to the shop and ran diagnostics on ECMspy. Code 44 BAS was stored. I unplugged the BAS and plugged it back in. Next ride, no problem.
 
Yeah, since I got CE light two or 3 times last ride, I'm hoping I got some stored codes. Hopefully I can check it with ECM spy today. My sched is pretty tight this week but I'll check codes & test those intake seals.
Snow in the forecast again, that'll give me time to wrench.
Funny thing...ya build up an insane tool collection wrenching on foreign cars & bikes. Along comes a domestic vehicle and ya got nothing! Lol...I've spent as much on new tools as I have parts so far, heh heh.
 
Chickn,
Hmmm...hadn't thought of that. It'd make sense given the worst of it happened after 10 miles or so. But then again, it ran fine a for a bit after the restart and I never really even stopped rolling.
I'll do some reading into that temp issue. So far my "warm" days here, and the day I test rode, are sunny and in the 40's. I'm sure that motor could get hot just about at any outside temp, tho, eh? It's never hot where I live. Usually in the 70's all summer.
 
Thnx again!
Found NRHS. It's in Berthoud, between Denver & Ft Collins. Nice to know they're there in case I can't figure this out!
Actually it's on the way to Rocky Mountain Westy, where I get custom stuff for my VW Westfalia.
 
Trying again-
2004 Buell XB12S, 9,000 miles. Runs, but hard to get idling, stutters around 2-3k rpm, periodically shuts off completely, and I have to turn off ignition and restart

I had mothballed the XB for a while after not figuring out what was “off” with the bike.
These gremlins had me frustrated, to say the least. Well....I decided to pull er outta storage and try to fix the stumbling/misfire/CE light/etc etc issue’s again.
Recap: I’ve replaced the O2 sensor, Reset the tps, done breather mod, new plugs, checked the timing, checked that common burned elec plug (forget the name, by the belt)
And now I’m on to next....
I ran ECM spy and here’s my codes:

Trouble codes:
Current
Trouble code 21- Active muffler control
Trouble code 21- Active muffler control

Historic
Byte1: 08
Bit 3: trouble code 13, 02 sensor always lean
——-
Byte2: 14
Bit 2: trouble code 23, front injector short to ground or open
Bit 4: trouble code 23, battery voltage too low
———
Byte3: 10
Bit 4: trouble code 32, rear injector short to ground or open
———
Byte 4: 08
Bit 3: trouble code 53, ecm rom failure
———
Byte 5: 06
Bit 1: trouble code 21, active muffler control
Bit 2: trouble code 21, active muffler control

I turned off the muffler control thru ecmspy and ordered a new battery and intake seals. Gonna clean all my grounds (no front triple tree ground? Only found two by the battery?)
I’m wondering if I should order a tested ecm from a steele’s Cycles on eBay. Considering it. I have a feeling the P.O. tried to “fix” the mapping? I suppose I could pull up the mapping on ecmspy & compared it to a stock mapping chart, to see.
I also think maybe the gas, at this point, is getting old....can it be drained?
 
Having had to chase grounding issues myself - looking at your list that was the first thing that jumped to mind (i.e. do a thorough cleaning and re-install/re-tightening of all grounding points and wires).
 
Your symptoms are very similar to a failing CPS, like Chicken said.

I would highly doubt an ECM problem, even a mapping issue would not cause it to shut off, and whats the guarantee the 'new' ecm would have the right programming anyway. I would fix the bike before messing with the ecm or mapping.

The front/rear injector wiring codes are a bit troubling. Trace that harness from under the airbox base while doing your grounds.
 
Cleaned all my grounds, found a stripped ground bolt that wasn’t tight as it could be, rethreaded a longer bolt in TIGHT after thorough sanding/cleans. Both sides of the battery grounds re-done.....and I’m not sure if this makes sense to y’all, but the ground wire from the battery terminal that goes to the hex bolt on the intake manifold seemed suspect. Almost looked as if it wouldn’t ground. It is bolted to plastic. I rerouted it to the braided tower connector just to the rear of the intake, after cleaning those up.
New intake seals in hand, New battery here tomorrow. Today I ordered a BAS, a CPS, and new oem plug wires. I had noticed some elec tape on my plug wires & found a small nick in the housing under the tape, but seriously so small I doubt it was affecting anything....figured I shud cross it off the list, tho. The P.O. said he could never get this bike running right, & now I’m starting to see why. I feel like I’m spending more time fixing his blunders than I wudda had needed just to find the original culprit.
I haven’t been working fast (raising a toddler seems to absorb lots of free time! Haha) but I’m hell bent on getting this bike running right.
I’ll check back as I replace these parts....hopefully with good news!
 
After I first clean off the grounding spots, I use motorcycle roller chain spray on all fasteners and metal spots, it has an anti corrosive in it and I've used it for years for this specific purpose and once applied have never had a problem.
 
Njloco, thnx for the tip!
I have some BelRay & some Maxima Moto chain lube I use on my MX bike. I’ll look into using those.

Don't use a chain lube, it's just messy and not really an appropriate product. Go get some CRC electrical contact cleaner/degreaser, its a blue can and available pretty much everywhere. Use some shop rags around the area when you use an aerosol product, it can be a little messy.
 
The chain lube is not for cleaning the area, it's for helping to prevent corrosion from happening again.

I understood that, and of course using any kind of oil will help with corrosion prevention. I was just providing all in one product option that is better suited for the job.
 
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