Fork seals/rebuild?

[Mike Oxlodge]

Hello,
The fork seals on my 2006 XB12R need to be replaced.
I found some good videos online and I feel confident of my ability to do this myself.
Searching this forum I see that I need these parts:

Oil seals(24)
Dust seals(26)
Slide bushings(21)
Guide bushings(22)

and obviously fork oil for my 225 pound ass.
Are there any other wear components on these forks (compression/rebound, etc) or any upgrades that I should do while I am in there?
Is there any reason to actually take them to a professional suspension shop?
I plan on doing my first track days this fall and want to make sure my bike is predictable.
Thank you in advance, and have a great day!

Mike
Phoenix Arizona

 

[Chicknstripn]

Just take your time and have a nice clean area to keep all your parts in the order you take them apart. I like to print out hard copies of the service manual section so I can get it all greasy and oily. www.buellmods.com for the service manual.
Tips from my experience: have a good method to compress your fork springs. It can be a royal PITA if you don't. Also use plastic baggies to cover your fork caps to avoid scratching them with your tools. I used a universal fork seal driver from cycle gear. Have some pick tools handy and lots of clean towels to keep everything wiped down and CLEAN!
Good luck

 

[AZmidget91]

Hopefully my video was one of them. If you need a hand I'm actually down in Maricopa

https://youtu.be/1FptHgvIhO4

 

[Cooter]

That's a really nice offer AZ! He should take you up on it

If not, make sure to get a decent spring compressor, they are cheap and worth it to do the job one time.

Chicken said CLEAN! He's totally right, and use the same thin plastic to cover the threads on the fork tubes as you slide the new seals over.

At 225lbs (+ gear), the high ambient heat in PHX, and doing track days, you should seriously think about what weight fork oil to use. Where are your suspension adjustments? Almost maxed out? try 10w to 15w oil.

 

[Mike Oxlodge]

Thank you all for the advice!

Midget yours was one of the videos I watched. Gave me confidence!

I will surely have my garage set up like an operating room before I start this job!

I just got the bike and am doing a teardown to see where I am at and making a list of projects. I will set the suspension after I get it all back together. I am thinking about starting with 15W in the forks.

I will post my questions and progress.

Thank you!

Mike

 

[user_deleted]

I am thinking about starting with 15W in the forks.

i wouldn't do that. fork oil viscosity has NO correlation whatsoever to a riders' weight. viscosity only affects damping characteristics for both compression and rebound in conjunction with the external adjusters.
do what you want BUT you're pretty beefy and you mentioned track days. if those were my intentions and i was dealing with 11 year old showa cartridge forks i'd have a pro-shop dismantle, test springs for both sack tension as well as serviceability for someone your weight....install emulators....and the proper amount of correct viscosity oil.
why would i do this? their services are reasonably priced....they know precisely what to do and how to do it and you clearly don't.....their recommendations and expertise well worth the money.....and above all else....when reinstalled and ridden PARTICULARLY during "track days" the enhanced performance and rideability is stunningly shocking. do as you please.

 

[TPEHAK]

Manual says nothing about fork oil viscosity, but I use W20 belray fork oil.

 

[AZmidget91]

Manual says nothing about fork oil viscosity, but I use W20 belray fork oil.

Incorrect.

The recommended fork oil is hydraulic fork oil Type "E"
(Part No. HD-99884-80.

Which is a 10w oil

 

[TPEHAK]

How do you know it is 10w? Did you measure it?

 

[user_deleted]

How do you know it is 10w? Did you measure it?

doubt cole had to "measure" it. common knowledge in the dealership world that E-type H-D fluid is 10wt. i've posted that info on here at least 40X.
realizing that you have all the answers this will fall on deaf ears BUT....if you're running 20wt fork oil in a showa cartridge fork you'll never ever experience the full damping capabilities, suppleness, and outstanding performance these forks are capable of offering.

 

[Silverrider]

in my Honda 450r with Showa forks with a gold valve, I mix 10 wt with 15 wt for a 12.5 wt , works well.

 

[Mike Oxlodge]

I love learning about new machines!

Lunatic, I think that you are correct about sending out the forks for service and setup. I think that I will test the bike out with just the seals and 10W fork oil and see what I think. Once the bike (hopefully) proves itself I will do another disassembly and rebuild over the winter.

Mike

 

[user_deleted]

Lunatic, I think that you are correct about sending out the forks for service and setup.

mike: springs lose tensile strength.....seals leak....bushings wear out....fluid is wasted....cartridges have and can be updated.
these are things that a competent shop such as orient express and race-tech plus many more handle on a daily basis with brilliance, competence and fair pricing. it seems that very few people ever get to experience cartridge fork assemblies properly serviced, set up and calibrated/valved for a specific rider. considering the major impact and influence these components have on ride and handling qualities...plus the reasonableness of this service....it's shocking more don't indulge themselves. IMO you're making a smart decision.

 

[TPEHAK]

When I replaced original oil in my fork by 20W I felt no difference. Maybe I'm not so sensitive.

 

[Cooter]

Thats very hard to believe TPEHAK^^^. It's drastic change from the factory recommended weight, Unless you're huge??:angel: and I thought you were just street riding? (I thought factory was 7.5w? but from memory so YMMV...)

The only reason to go to a heavier viscosity oil would be to be able to help dampen the suspension if it is past or near it's max adjustments. Things that make it hard for a stock suspension to compensate are high weight (225+), high temp (oil loses viscosity), and hard use (track days). In all three of those cases a higher viscosity oil will help damping to control the oscillations of the road/track without cranking your compression and re-bound almost closed.

Race-Tech are my neighbors, and I'll admit to having them do several things for me. I'll also admit the suspension 'black-art' ain't what its cracked up to be. They can re-build forks and make the settings appropriate for the weight of the rider and will do a fantastic job of it. What they cannot do is tune the suspension to your personal tastes. Only you can do that (I'm assuming your last name isn't Rossi or Marquez). They can supply you fork springs that could help you from having to max out your pre-load.

Re-building your forks yourself is easy, satisfying, will help you understand the adjustments, and their limits. If you consider putting a ton of $$ into having someone else upgrade the stock forks, look into upgrading the whole she-bang... Showa big piston forks or Ohlins are a good upgrade. Race-tech can help you with that too.