Front cylinder not firing

[coolairlova]

Just fired up the buell for the first time this spring ('07 12Stt) and it was really sluggish starting. For the first time ever, I had to give it some gas to get it to run. I stayed on it lightly to keep it going until it idled by itself, and then I took it for a quick spin up the street. I noticed it had really crappy power, and when I got back into the driveway, although I could feel heat on my pant leg coming off the pipes, I put my hand down there anyway to find that only one of them was hot. The front cylinder isn't firing.

I parked the bike running just fine, and started and ran it a couple times this winter with no drama at all. Anybody got any idea what the deal might be now that we had a 45 degree day with sun?

 

[anrkizm95]

did check the plug?

 

[ct1200]

+1 on the front spark plug

 

[Red93stang]

did check the plug?

Yup, just put in fresh ones.

 

[coolairlova]

The plugs only have a couple thousand miles on them, I can't believe they'd have randomly gone bad since I had had it started last month. Ten again, I can't believe that a wire would just randomly pop itself loose either. I guess I'll have to yank them and see how they look and have a look at the wires as well. I'll let you all know how it works out. Thanks for the replies.

 

[RPBUELL]

Not trying to be a smartass but, I don't get why so many folks let their rigs sit for months at a time and don't bother going out once a week and crank em up and/or have a trickle charger on em.

I lived in a locale where I got upwards of 5-7 feet (not inches) of snow accumulation with temps below zero regularly over the winter, and I still made a point to start all my rigs once or even twice a week and had a trickle charge on em.

For what it is worth, cold dry temps play havoc on the fuel, oil, batteries, hoses, electric wires and contacts. Variable temps create condensation in the tranny, main oil res and the fuel tank. Wise to ensure fuel and oil stabilizers are at least added to them if one does not intend on starting their rigs over the long winter months as well as ensuring all electrical contacts are cleaned and coated as well as disconnecting the battery, all prior to putting it away for long periods.

I say charge up the battery, do a complete deep clean of all electrical connections and fuel lines, replace the plugs, drain the oil and fuel and start from fresh. Bet ya all works just fine after doing so.

Good luck.

 

[coolairlova]

I deserved that. [sad]

 

[StreetRod]

Complete clean like RPBUELL suggests is a good idea. I once let my cbr600f4 sit for about 7 months while I was away at work, that sucked. Carbs were completely gummed and corrosion had set in in a few places due to the lack of use and movement. I went through and cleaned everything short of cracking the block open. I was able to fix some problems as well as prevent some in areas that would sure enough fail sooner or later due to corrosion. I now make sure to have someone take it for a spin if I'm gone for more than a month.

 

[CrazyTexan]

I had corrosion on the front cylinder side of my coil. I woukd randomly loose that front cylinder.

 

[BUELLner]

I realize this is an old thread, but I found/needed it to relate to as might others with my input.
After parking my xb12 for the <25degree days of New England winter and turning the key once reaching about 35degrees only 3 weeks later (to take a bearable ride around the block and warm everything up), I had the same issue with ~1000miles on the plugs upon immediate start-up. Shut her down with less than 30 seconds of obvious single-cylinder idling and checked plug/coil wiring. Everything found snug so pulled front plug... wow was it rich in there! That enrichment cycle sure makes for a hard cold start up here. I religiously maintain a new battery and am running Drummer mapping/exhaust. Bumped starter and released excess fuel, cleaned plug and re-installed with plug wire. Fired up and she ran both cylinders for ~30seconds before front cyl quit (Immediately shut down this time... but it was nice to hear both cylinders Re-started and cleared itself up to run both cylinders. Engine needs that heat! Still running the 1000mile plugs.
Could it be wise to slightly customize the enrichment cycle for cold-starting if this becomes common?

 

[Dellinger]

What year is your bike? Is the front injector not working properly? May be dumping fuel. All the computer tweaking in the world won't fix a bad or malfunctioning injector.

 

[BUELLner]

'09 XB12Ss with 4k miles. Seems to start up without the issue when temps are above 45degrees (few turns over today, but did not stall after first start-up and ran both cylinders fine). Pops a bit on deceleration too... seems like it could be dumping fuel. How is the best way to access and check the injector?

 

[user_deleted]

'09 XB12Ss with 4k miles. Seems to start up without the issue when temps are above 45degrees (few turns over today, but did not stall after first start-up and ran both cylinders fine). Pops a bit on deceleration too... seems like it could be dumping fuel. How is the best way to access and check the injector?

do the simple and obvious things first which involve removing airbox cover, airbox inner lid, filter, airbox base, disconnect IAT switch....set all aside then:
1-if not done before replace plugs with NGK DCPR9EIX. rideability and cold start noticeably improved and virtually "foul-proof". factory gap is .040 but be DAMN CAREFUL if adjusting same. the center electrode is extremely fragile as is the ground electrode inner surface.
2-check your IAC (idle air controller) assembly for tightness and that the factory plug is installed tightly.
3-carefully check your plug wires. your bike is 7 years old and though low mileage i've seen these 2 wires act up after just a few years.
report back

 

[jbern58]

Not trying to be a smartass but, I don't get why so many folks let their rigs sit for months at a time and don't bother going out once a week and crank em up and/or have a trickle charger on em.

I lived in a locale where I got upwards of 5-7 feet (not inches) of snow accumulation with temps below zero regularly over the winter, and I still made a point to start all my rigs once or even twice a week and had a trickle charge on em.

For what it is worth, cold dry temps play havoc on the fuel, oil, batteries, hoses, electric wires and contacts. Variable temps create condensation in the tranny, main oil res and the fuel tank. Wise to ensure fuel and oil stabilizers are at least added to them if one does not intend on starting their rigs over the long winter months as well as ensuring all electrical contacts are cleaned and coated as well as disconnecting the battery, all prior to putting it away for long periods.

I say charge up the battery, do a complete deep clean of all electrical connections and fuel lines, replace the plugs, drain the oil and fuel and start from fresh. Bet ya all works just fine after doing so.

Good luck.

Not advisable to be cranking up an engine with 20W50 weight engine oil in anything less than 45 degree Fahrenheit temps, let alone sub zero temps! Good way to destroy your motor. YouTube 20W50 weight oil in winter. It pours like cured cement.