Fuel pump won't prime

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ehi

Active member
Joined
May 31, 2011
Messages
37
Hi there, I'm a fairly new poster to the site. I've done a bit of lurking on this issue but couldn't find anything that resolved this issue for me. Sorry in advance for the long post.

Quick recap, I had to do a lot of work on this bike. The front cylinder head was replaced, lower triple tree, primary crank case cover were among the major parts. Clutch lever and shifter assembly was replaced as well.

I've gone through and checked all my grounds and connections, everything seems solid. No pinched wires that I could see.

Now this is as far as I've managed to get, I get a flat voltage reading when I tested the voltage output from the ecm to the fuel pump (the grey wire in the black portion of the ecm connector, position #1). I checked the ignition relay as well, it doesn't click (took cover off to see for myself). The relay itself it good, the other relays clicked when I gave the bike power and I swapped relays to confirm that it was not the issue. I tested the "start" and "key switch" relays with a bulb, they are getting power. Just the ignition relay is not sending out any voltage it seems like. Could the relay center itself be faulty, or what could cause the voltage to not be sent out?

I'm starting to think the fuel pump is bad, but I want to eliminate the electrical issue before I start buying more parts.

This has been frustrating me for a good week and a half. If anyone shed some light on this I would greatly appreciate it![up]
 
You've told us what you did but not why?

What's the bike actually doing that you're trying to fix?

What bike?

Engine switch on, key on: needles will sweep, pump will prime.

Engine switch on, key on, start switch on: no click means bad relay or no power to relay.

I'm confused about what you're saying about the relays. One doesn't click but the other ones do? Bad relay, replace it.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I'm still new to this.

The bike was in an accident, I got it from my brother in law. The cylinder head was cracked where the frame mounts to the cylinder head, which is why it was replaced. The lower triple tree was damaged, as was the primary cover and front rim. They have been replaced as well. I've had to gut the bike down the the cylinder (to replace the head), and the muffler was taken off so I could put it on my stand.

It's a 2003 xb9r. I'm trying to get the bike to start, it will turn over but not start.

Main issue is that the fuel pump does not prime (no whine) when I turn the engine switch on, key on. Needles will sweep, but I don't hear a click.

The ignition relay does not get power, but the relay itself works. I tested this by swapping the start/ignition relays and only the ignition relay would not click with a working relay.

I hope that clears things up a bit!
 
If I missed something of importance or left out some details let me know and I'll do my best to fill them in.
 
Ok, so first:

Engine run on, key on: sweep, three lights (green neutral, engine, oil [not always]), pump primes.

Engine run on, key on, starter switch pressed: engine should turn over, or you hear some clicks.

What step are you at?
 
I'm at this step:

Engine run on, key on. It sweeps, I get two lights (green neutral and oil, the check engine light came on several times but stopped doing so). Pump does not prime.

As above, engine run on, key on, starter switch pressed the engine turns over but does not start.
 
ehi,do you hear the pump priming when you turn on the Start/Kill switch?If there's no noise at all and the Engine Turns over.Check your fuses first TEST them do not put a bigger fuse in if it's blown. USE the Exact one.If thats Ok with the Key OFF and out of the bike. Remove OR unplug the electrical plugs connector on the fuel pump.Remove the fuel line,that feeds the throttle body then put on some fuel line for this from the Feed to a safe area like a clean bucket make sure to not have any drop light to near your work.Now replug the fuels electrical connector back in you don't have to unplug the Connector but it's safer for those that may do a little work here and there and Would Forget.Key on Fuel line Anchored safety first!Now turn on the Start/Kill switch.Any fuel coming out?This is easier for the Home Mechanic to do SAFELY of course.After you know whether you have power to the pump and that works.You will have to go up to the Throttle Body and check out that area Next.BUT do this first Theres a Metal Fuel Filter in the Tank(Frame)that may be the Problem or just a simple wire or Fuse.Post Up and let us know how it goes.This simple way does not take some of the Expensive Tools that I use but should hopefully get you going in the Right Direction.Your auto parts store should have the fuel line some small clamps and a inexpensive Fuse Checker for testing the fuses.They should have one it's a small yellowish tester with a fuse puller on the end.It will check 3 different sizes of fuses it even comes with some fuses.There are TWO small pointed metal probes at the end.DO NOT use it for anything other than Testing fuses.Use the slide for the size fuses you have lay the fuse across the TWO Probes and if it's good it should light up.Good Luck and take your time,*Jimi
 
Dang Sorry ehi,welcome to the Forum.Make sure if you use multi meters and a good test light to ground properly.You can always test for power at the connector at the fuel pumps plug.Hopefully it's not the pump and an easy fix.good luck *Jimi
 
I don't hear the pump priming when I turn the ignition to "on" and press kill switch to run. The gauges sweep and I get 2 lights (green neutral and red oil).

I've gone through the fuse box and the main fuse under the seat. All of them seemed to be in good shape, but it couldn't hurt to take another look.

I tested the connector to the fuel pump with a multimeter and got odd voltage readings(it would start at around 8 volts, go down to zero voltage, then start at 8 voltage again).

Was hoping it was a bad ground, that would have been an easy fix ;). I have a lamp that provides good lighting inside the garage as well.

I'm having a friend stop by hopefully tomorrow, I'll post an update if anything significant happens.
 
Sounds like your better with a multimeter than I am.

At the ignition relay, check the GY wire to the pump and the GY/O from the fuse box.

Sounds like the drop you noticed is supposed to be there.

Then follow Jimijeans' advice carefully.
 
I've made some progress. I haven't had the opportunity to check the fuses yet, although I likely will later tonight (should be possible with a multimeter, yes?)

I double checked all of the relays in the front relay box, last time I only checked the ignition and starter I believe. Turns out the third relay wasn't working :/.

I'll be seeing if the dealership will have one tomorrow. If I have time I'll also test the fuel pump by rigging it up to a power source (with proper ground of course) and seeing if I can get it to start that way, just in case.

Still, I'm really glad I've made progress. Hopefully I'll my my buell on the road in a day or so, and thanks for all the help so far!
 
Thanks JRage!

I ended up replacing the relay (very lucky I found one laying around in the garage, and it works!), tested the connection from the ignition to fuel pump, from ecm to fuel pump, checked fuses with the multimeter - they were ok.

Everything seems to be working except the fuel pump still won't prime. I did test the connection to the fuel pump, it is getting power. Also, I tried feeding the fuel pump power directly from a spare 12v car battery with wiring attached to pos/neg, pump didn't prime (no whine or nothin' ). I'm in the process of taking out the fuel pump and inspecting it. Will check the metal filter as jimijeans suggested.

I'll keep you guys posted!:D
 
Here's an update finally.

Got around to taking off the swing arm and taking out the fuel pump. Something must have definitely happened in there, the fuel screen deteriorated, some sticky gunk came out that was really hard to wash out. The fuel pump looks corroded in some areas and really dirty.

In addition, the inside of the frame feels somewhat sticky, is it supposed to be like that? I'm not sure if it's coated with something, or I have more trouble on my hands.

I'm hoping to find a used fuel pump, as I am not dishing out $300 from the stealership. If anyone can point out a place I can get one for about half the cost, please let me know (checked ebay and various threads on here already, nothing so far).
 
I did come across that thread in my research. I don't think I can go that route, and pretty certain I will need a new fuel pump. The fuel screen completely deteriorated (I'll post a pic), there is corrosion on the fuel filter, and the part that takes the fuel in to be filtered. Here are some pics.
10288_20110725075339_L.jpg


10288_20110725073749_L.jpg

This is one of my main concerns. That and it may be damaged inside as well, as a result of this corrosion. You can't really see it from this pic but inside the little hole the corrosion is there as well.

10288_20110725074856_L.jpg

This just looks dirty, and wrong :/

10288_20110725074951_L.jpg

What was left of the fuel screen and some gunk that came out with the fuel pump.

10288_20110725075204_L.jpg

Inside the frame after fuel pump was removed.
 
Minor update: Found a working fuel pump assembly for $125, should be here next week at the latest. I'm also curious now to see if I could have gotten/still can get that junker to work by replacing the pump itself.
 
Got the new fuel pump installed, bike starts and runs like a charm! Thanks for all the help :D.
 
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