got burnt

[Iamarchangel]

Get a tune for it. The lean fueling causes it to run hot. Just the tune will help a bunch!

Never understand it when this suggestion is made in this context. Lean, being another vague application in this context, is an internal condition of the combustion process. The original post is referring to the external condition of that process.

Lean has specific meanings. Hot casing is not a significant indicator.

The best tuned engine in the world is still going to be too hot to sit on while basically parked. It's like sitting on a steam kettle. There's only a couple of real choices: shut it off, move it, or wear heat protective clothing.

 

[snrusnak]

^running lean causes it to run hot. I have little experience, none actually, with the 1125, but on my xb I richened the fueling and the bike runs considerably cooler. This keeps the frame from "burning" my leg. It is VERY noticeable.

 

[Iamarchangel]

^

Too many variables to be a sound concept. Lean will kill an engine, rich will foul it. Either way, it does not change the temperature dynamics of a stationary engine in any significant way.

Lean/rich are specific internal conditions that are not determined by sitting on a running bike in a parking lot.

Water cooled should be set to follow a specific coolant temp range regardless of ambient or cylinder head temps.

Air cooled when stationary is not being cooled.

We're sitting on a kettle or a fire. Why? Shut it off, ride it faster, or wear protective clothing.

 

[snrusnak]

I understand what you are saying, but it is a fact that lean = hotter engine. Fuel helps cool the engine, we aren't just making this up. Even when moving, my bike runs significantly cooler now that it is richer.

Also, all motorcycles are tuned lean from the factory to meet emissions standards.

That's also why buell designed the rear cylinder to run richer than the front cylinder, because the rear cylinder is covered up and runs hotter. The extra fuel helps cool it. If you look at the maps, the rear cylinder gets more fuel.

Also, GM designed many of their newer models with a limp mode where if the engine becomes too hot, if there's a cooling system failure, they kill ignition to 4 of the 8 cylinders, but still inject fuel to all 8 cylinders. The extra fuel helps keep the engine cool enough to "limp" in to the shop...

 

[snrusnak]

Sorry, my 3rd paragraph was in regards to the xb models....I'm still getting used to this forum not being just xb's lol

 

[BuellRiderX]

Sorry, my 3rd paragraph was in regards to the xb models....I'm still getting used to this forum not being just xb's lol

 

[twoguns]

i actually found that the CR was way hotter on my leg than my XB. not good sitting in traffic, but once moving then fine.

 

[Iamarchangel]

So, yes, lean is hotter engine. The confusion is having that translate to an outside temperature. The causes for hot internal and hot external are two different causes.

The situation described is not affected in any significant way by the engine's oxygen intake. The level of heat that will burn is at all ranges of "tune". It's the fact of slow traffic or idling that is the problem.

An engine should never be purposefully run lean or rich, it should be run right. There will be variations to compensate for a number of situations but they're not going to far off range and they're not going to change the burn from sitting on a parked running bike.

 

[ATFIII]

Get a good pair of jeans. I have an 1125R, with RT-5 and EBR ECM tunes for it. My bike still gets hot sitting in traffic. It usually hits my right leg with the heat being pushed by the fan. It is only unbearable with gym shorts, which I only rode with once. Just another reason to get a nice pair of jeans-- protect you from road rash AND heat. And I live in Florida.

 

[snrusnak]

An engine should never be purposefully run lean or rich, it should be run right.

Exactly. And by this statement you should agree with me to richen it up. Since the bikes come so lean from the factory, richening up to the right a/f ratio would be best.

 

[Iamarchangel]

Exactly.  And by this statement you should agree with me to richen it up.  Since the bikes come so lean from the factory, richening up to the right a/f ratio would be best.

Not so fast there, slim.

First, I did not agree the bikes came lean from the factory. Mine, for my circumstances, seems to be spot on.

Second, how to even say this mechanically? I'm not going to tune a Buell for parking or stop and go. I'm going to stop the bike or get the heck out of there as soon as I can.

 

[snrusnak]

I know you don't agree with me, I was being a smart ass.

Most bikes come lean from the factory. I'm not saying to tune it to be richer at stop lights, but to tune it properly for all situations(which we are able to do due to electronic fuel injection).

I don't want to keep arguing and get more off topic, but it's pretty common to richen up the a/f ratio to help keep the engine cooler.

And the main argument you made (I think) was that internal combustion temperature has little or no influence on external engine/bike temperature(that is felt by the rider). If you really believe that then you don't have any understanding of heat transfer, which is pretty much common sense; If something is hot, that heat will transfer through the surrounding materials...

 

[Iamarchangel]

Okay, so a point of agreement might be that most vehicles come tuned for the LA basin. If you don't live in that kind of environment, you have to adjust. Our riding season is very similar so I luck out.

Heat transfer: I've been playing with fire all my life, and well paid for it. I think I've got the heat transfer principle burn scars to substantiate that knowledge. It's not too difficult. Once burnt, twice shy.

My main argument is not that there's no influence, that would be a d'uh statement. My point is that a bike doing what the original post described can only transfer heat to his leg because it has nowhere else to go. There is no transfer to atmosphere because there is no movement of air. Eventually, that heat will radiate until it transfers to skin >red>blister. My point is that all the hot rod tuning ,arguing, bafflegab, is not going to lower the engine/ambient/water temp enough to make the skin comfortable. Therefore, I see no value in discussing tuning to resolve the original poster's issue.

Heat transfer: you probably know that paper, wood, aluminum, and steel all melt at different temperatures. Big whoop, I've been burned by all four. Why, other than my own carelessness/learning? The answer is that skin burns at a specific temperature that is significantly lower than any tuning will take you.

Tuning for skin is not the answer: tune for the engine; clothing for the skin.

 

[snrusnak]

Whatever man.....helping to keep the engine cooler from the start will only help keep it cooler in the end...

Love everybody.....lol

 

[Iamarchangel]

Yep, two different conversations.

Being from a cold country, we learn at an early age not to sit on a hot radiator.

 

[Loki]

Is it ok to run just water and my hy-per lube super coolant in my cr? Says it runs the coolest with water added. But I'm not sure if that's ok for every day use. (Expect freezing times of course).

Also how can I get the fans to stop coming on so much.

 

[snrusnak]

^I assume it's similar to cars....you need coolant/antifreeze not only to keep the water in the cooling system from freezing, but also to inhibit corrosion. You should probably run a 50/50 mix.

 

[stensg]

but the hyper lube with tap water in theory isnt supposed to corrode or thats what it clams. I have never tried it and I have heard to never use RO water because it will corrode. Any one ever done it?

 

[Alfatango1]

Man the 1125R I had for a week ran so hot I could never stand riding one for any length of time. My right foot felt like it was in an oven.

 

[Loki]

My right foot felt like it was in an oven.

Yeah the heat def likes to be put out right there on your feet.