H-D front fork oil (Type E)

[lukasz]

Hi Guys,
I have to change oil and seals in front fork in my 2007 XB12SS. I read a lot about suspension's oils and i decided to buy original Harley-Davidson oil.
In manual is information that for Showa fork in XB series is "Type E HD-99884-80". I called to HD dealer and they told me that HD-99884-80 was replaced by Type E 62600026. I'm little confused because i see that HD-99884-80 is still available in some countries.

Could You tell me something about 62600026 oil? Specs is the same like HD-99884-80? I want to suspension's stiffness was the same like in stock bike. Maybe somebody used 62600026 and can tell something about his impressions after ride?

Thx for help,
Regards

 

[Cooter]

IMO. You're out thinking the problem. There is no way theres a measurable difference in handling between two different brands of the same weight fork oil.

It's oil, and HD oil is just re-branded from another MFG. They don't refine it themselves Heck, The forks are made by Showa...
Any high quality fork oil in the weight you need will be fine. If you are near the end of the suspension adjustments that you like, get a lighter or heavier oil. Otherwise stock (I believe 5w) will be fine.

I currently weigh 220lbs geared up, so I typically use 7.5w and have used 10w with success when it's super hot or I'm beating it at a track day.

 

[lukasz]

My current weight is around 200lbs (91kgs). Till now, my suspension was set like in Buell manual and i was satisfied so i don't want to change oil for another with different specs. My bike have almost 16000 kilometers mileage so probably fork oil was never changed - i have this bike since 2013 and mileage around 8000kms.

If You claim that the difference will be unmeasurable so i will take this new HD oil Type E.

 

[34nineteen]

I just rebuilt the forks on my SS and used Type E oil. I wasnt sure of the oil used and condition that was in my forks, so after reviewing the suspension setup chart, it seemed like stock oil was a great place to start. I'm about 210. It appears that Buell/Showa designed the suspension more around an "American" sized person.

I've usually had to go up a weight or so on my Japanese bikes, as well as replacing the springs with something quite a bit heavier. It seems like those guys ship their suspension for someone closer to 125lb

If I remember correctly, the fork (at least on my SS) required just a bit more than a (pint) bottle per side.

 

[user_deleted]

type E has never changed. H-D changed the dealer part # to simplify ordering and update system. the part # 99884-80 was close to 40 years old and was simply a number change. it has been applied to both cartridge and conventional telescopic forks for over 50 years.
H-D type E is in fact 10wt and as shaughn stated thru the years has been bottled by and supplied to H-D by maxima, bel-ray and even castrol many decades ago.
though type E is readily available and works fine i personally prefer a dedicated fork oil from one of the popular manufacturers that contains "seal swell"......or i add my own dosage of same in a rate of 1 oz. per pint.
you may see some internet banter stating that "seal swell" increases "friction" in cartridge forks. in the words of the legendary Jesus Quintana "Laughable.....Man!"

 

[lukasz]

Thx Guys, now i know everything.

If I remember correctly, the fork (at least on my SS) required just a bit more than a (pint) bottle per side.

Please correct me if i'm wrong but in 2007 SS Long had the same height suspension like XB12S. Since 2008 front suspension was a little higher so maybe then we need a little more oil than a pint?

 

[Dobe1]

He knows his stuff:

Next...

 

[Cooter]

I would never add fork oil by the quantity. The fork oil level is the important spec and pretty critical.

 

[kz6fittycent]

Would any of you go as high as 20w if heat (I live in TX) was a concern? I'm waffling, just looking for opinions and hopefully experience with these bikes. Yeah, I can already see the comments about opinions, etc. :black_eyed:

The other thing I'm concerned with is the absolute crap I ride on (roads). They truly suck.

 

[Barrett]

NO.
you're confusing "heat" with "temperature". two entirely different circumstances.

 

[kz6fittycent]

Great you've convinced me to use bar and chain oil. :sorrow:

 

[Cooter]

The only reason to change the weight of your fork oil is if you are outside of the adjustment range. i.e. your compression or rebound is maxed out to get the performance you want, and any that level you need new springs first.

 

[kz6fittycent]

The only reason to change the weight of your fork oil is if you are outside of the adjustment range. i.e. your compression or rebound is maxed out to get the performance you want, and any that level you need new springs first.

Word. Thanks man. I do know that viscosity does break down in fork oil over it's life, so you're always chasing damping as time progresses (and as heat increases in the forks). I guess I was batting the idea around of going heavier to avoid it but I think I'll be fine with the stock 10w/Type E.

 

[34nineteen]

I’m in Phoenix, and it gets hot here also, but I’d recommend sticking with the stock stuff.

Like CoOter mentioned, there are reasons to move away from the stock oil, but unless you’re having damping issues or are pushing the bike hard enough cause it to “overheat” I’d stick with it. If for nothing else than to get a baseline for how it reacts toward your riding style. Old oil will react with the dampers (not dampeners CoOter!) differently than fresh oil so changing the weight due to the old oil feeling bad isn’t exactly apples to apples.

Plus from what I understand, different brands weight rating can differ from other brands of the same weight. Plus, what weight is Type E really? I’ve never been able to get a straight answer. Ask 10 people and get 10 different answers.

If I was racing, I’d go to an aftermarket brand, so I could track my oil weight and get somewhat consistent results. If HD Type E is 10wt, is it the same viscosity when they switch between Maxima, Bel-ray, etc.

The short answer is that I agree with CoOter, but I’m trying to not make it obvious that I am.

 

[34nineteen]

Great you've convinced me to use bar and chain oil. :sorrow:

Bar and shield oil. Lol

 

[kz6fittycent]

I’m in Phoenix, and it gets hot here also, but I’d recommend sticking with the stock stuff.

Like CoOter mentioned, there are reasons to move away from the stock oil, but unless you’re having damping issues or are pushing the bike hard enough cause it to “overheat” I’d stick with it. If for nothing else than to get a baseline for how it reacts toward your riding style. Old oil will react with the dampers (not dampeners CoOter!) differently than fresh oil so changing the weight due to the old oil feeling bad isn’t exactly apples to apples.

Plus from what I understand, different brands weight rating can differ from other brands of the same weight. Plus, what weight is Type E really? I’ve never been able to get a straight answer. Ask 10 people and get answers.

If I was racing, I’d go to an aftermarket brand, so I could track my oil weight and get somewhat consistent results. If HD Type is 10wt, is it the same viscosity when they switch between Maxima, Bel-ray, etc.

The short answer is that I agree with CoOter, but I’m trying to not make it obvious that I am.

HA!

Yeah I looked and just came to my own conclusion that it was 10w. I seem to remember that Bel-Ray is a little more viscous than other brands, and I've had success with their products. I've also used Motul, which was great, too.

Spectro has "Type E" but I've never used it, so hard to say whether it's good. Decisions, decisions.

 

[Cooter]

I wouldn't obsess over fork oil weight. Even fresh 5w compared to fresh 10w is easily adjusted to the same sized person with OE suspension settings and will behave the same. You only need to change it up if you have any of your adjustments MAXED out.

Plus from what I understand, different brands weight rating can differ from other brands of the same weight. Plus, what weight is Type E really? I’ve never been able to get a straight answer. Ask 10 people and get answers.

Totally this.

Viscosity doesn't really 'break down with age', more like it gets more sensitive to heat*. Thinning out faster at a lower temp, making you fight to chase suspension settings.
Turn your screws people! With the bike warm, first set sag, then set compression to the most travel without bottoming (zip-tie trick), then just enough re-bound to stop any bounce. It is easy, fast, and gets you to 98% for a comfortable ride and the best performance. Do it every 1000 miles or if you're going to change your riding style dramatically.

*terrible oversimplification

 

[kz6fittycent]

I wouldn't obsess over fork oil weight. Even fresh 5w compared to fresh 10w is easily adjusted to the same sized person with OE suspension settings and will behave the same. You only need to change it up if you have any of your adjustments MAXED out.



Totally this.

Viscosity doesn't really 'break down with age', more like it gets more sensitive to heat*. Thinning out faster at a lower temp, making you fight to chase suspension settings.
Turn your screws people! With the bike warm, first set sag, then set compression to the most travel without bottoming (zip-tie trick), then just enough re-bound to stop any bounce. It is easy, fast, and gets you to 98% for a comfortable ride and the best performance. Do it every 1000 miles or if you're going to change your riding style dramatically.

*terrible oversimplification

Dave Moss.

 

[Cooter]

That guy (Dave Moss) is a tire reading Warlock! Good taste in bikes too:love_heart: He does such a good job of explaining the basics of set-up in simple terms Although I don't own a subscription, I would HIGHLY recommend paying someone that smart (and patient) for the knowledge that they can share:up: