header issue..

[1badtitan90]

I am trading a member exhausts And today I tried to pull mine off.. the head pipes were basically fused to the mid pipe.. I had to unbolt the front header pipe and remove the e whole right side scoop and radiator to be able to spin the pipe to get it free.. now the rear will not come off. I can spin it and get it loose but once friction sets in and it gets hot it fuses back up.. I have tried WD 40 and heating... just a pain in the a**.. anyone else have this issue.. if so what helped remove it.. thanks

 

[stensg]

When i took the stocker off it needed a few easy taps with a rubber mallet. i would try holing up where the can slides on and tapping down just after the bent on the tube parallel to the ground.

 

[1badtitan90]

Tried that multiple times with a dead blow hammer..

 

[poinographer]

When you twist the joint do you make any movement towards removal before it heats up and seizes again?

Can you get dry ice or (better yet) liquid nitrogen to chill the male pipe in conjunction with heating the female pipe?

That sucks, though. It shouldn't be that difficult...

 

[stensg]

On the dry ice theory i have used a can of compressed air held upside down many times to shrink parts works great.

 

[John422]

^^ I can't remember what bottle it was but I have done that once before. But he soaked it in wd-40 over night and got it off this morning! [up]

 

[Negative]

Lol guess that old saying still stands... If it moves and shouldn't, duct tape is the answer.... If it doesn't move and it should, WD40 Is the answer lol... I had to soak my header bolts and torca clamp in WD40 the night before I took my exhaust off to repaint it and wrap my headers... They were in sad shape...

 

[1badtitan90]

Yes.. wd40 did the job.. got it off. Thanks guys

 

[d_adams]

I cannot imagine why the pipe would stick together like that and even once it's been spun around even slightly, it should have literally fallen right off the header.

 

[Internet Annoyance]

Most of my motorcycles are over 40 years old, some even older. (I have a 1932 BSA that is currently my oldest), So, while maybe not the worlds leading expert,,, I do have an intimate relationship with rusted old parts or fused together stuff.
My GO-TO penetrating fluid is a product called "PB Blaster" its works very well. another, for more long term projects that require many many soakings and work to serperate is something called "KROIL" look it up, not exactly availible at your local hardware store, but well worth searching for.
Ill have to look for it, but i also have a D.I.Y recipe for a home made brew with ATF, Acetone, and some others that in testing actually works even better than KROIL.
Exhaust stuff is always tough when stuck,. all those heating and cooling cycles and exhaust byproducts make it difficult,

WD-40 is okay,, but not very good. look up the wiki page on WD-40, its actually only a water displacement oil designed to evaporate easily. Was designed for the space program for wet connections and fitttings. Better than nothing, and widely used, but not very good,.

If using other products, be very careful what you use, for example WalMart sells a generic lubricant that is almost 100% teflon, NOT good,,, if it gets on your paint, its impossible to paint again as it contaminates it. theres some fabric treatments and paint "Color back" treatments that are the same thing. Pro paint guys will kill you if you come near their shops with that stuff. It contaminates everything. filters, clothing, painted surfaces,,,

 

[Internet Annoyance]

I meant to say SILICON.... Not neccesarily teflon, althought i have seen it listed that way as well. Stay away from any products that have that listed. I have seen parts we tried to paint INFECTED with that crap,,, fisheyed like crazy, cant get paint or primer to stick to it.
What we ended up doing was using paint stripper, then scrubbed with 3m pads and BON AMI powder, washed repeatedly, wiped down with MEK,, and still had problems, then scrubbed again and then sandblasted the parts before we could repaint them,
If you infect plastic bodywork with that silicon,, you will NEVER be able to repaint.
I had a friend who lost his job at a very high end body and paint shop here locally. they did collectors cars and museum pieces. He had used a small squirt of Sillicon based lube on a tool, someone saw it and turned him in, later that day a paint job was ruined in the paint booth, while final clear coats were being applied,, it fisheyed all over it, They figured he was responsible and even though he used only a little, enough got in the air, traveled across the shop, and got in the filters for the spray booth. He was escorted off the property. The car was a genuine AC Cobra and im told they went thru hell to fix the paint.
As I said, any knowledgable paint and body guy will kill you for bringing any products with that in it near their shop.

 

[BuellyBagger]

If you infect plastic bodywork with that silicon,, you will NEVER be able to repaint. .

I wouldn't say "never" ive got a plastic cleaner that you would not even believe. But yeah silicone, Teflon, and basically nething that makes things slick and holds up for a long time can be a pain in the A$$ to get cleaned off a paint surface. Also it can ruin new paint, heavy silicone waxes and dressings can seal the solvents into new paint not allowing it to cure properly, usually ends up as I died-back mess that eventually peels.

but enuff about paint, glad u got ur header off!!