Hello all. I tried searching for an exact issue, but there are so many different fixes, I figured I would just ask. I have an 05 XB9 that I installed a race ECM on after having issues with flat spots in the RPM ranges. I have a K&N air filter installed and I had a custom 3" high flow exhaust with packing utilizing the stock exhaust. After installing the Race ECM, I performed a TPS reset and adjusted it to 5.5. The issue is when I start the bike, it will run for a couple seconds and then bog down almost stalling. it also has quite a high idle when adjusted to 5.5. I read that I should also do a AFV reset as well to 100. My question is should I start with something else even before doing the AFV reset? I also read that I should disconnect the O2 sensor prior to doing the AFV reset? If I have to, I can post up a video of the bike running. I also put the stock ECM back on the bike an it ran normal with no issues. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance.
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HELP!! bike bogging down at idle after Race ECM install
- Thread starter atm3535
- Start date
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On therace ecm, the idle is high until the bike comes up to operating temp. A feature meant to warm the bike up faster.
As far as idle, I'm guessing your exhaust gas something to do with it. When you ordered the ECM, which exhaust option did you select?
As far as idle, I'm guessing your exhaust gas something to do with it. When you ordered the ECM, which exhaust option did you select?
Hmm. I did not realize there were different options? I bought it off of someone. Not sure what option it is?? Damn, I should have looked into this more. I was originally going to use ECM spy to tune the stock ECM.
I just figured I would use the race ECM to make it easier.
I just figured I would use the race ECM to make it easier.
Chicknstripn
Well-known member
Have you put any miles on the bike since you performed the TPS reset with the new to you ECM?
If not, take it for a 20min ride making sure to go through all the gears and do a little highway cruising.
I think the ECMs have a self learn type mode that takes a good ride to reset at times.
Also, was the bike mechanically sound before you did any of your modifications?
If not, take it for a 20min ride making sure to go through all the gears and do a little highway cruising.
I think the ECMs have a self learn type mode that takes a good ride to reset at times.
Also, was the bike mechanically sound before you did any of your modifications?
rchuff
Well-known member
First off you should set Tps to 4.6 degrees 5.1% for race ecm. Set afv to 100 (.Should get motor warm before doing tps reset) Then take bike for ride after doing reset and drive in learn mode at 40 to 60 mph no hard excels.
So should I let the bike warm-up with The oem first, then swap the Race ECM over and do the TPS reset before I start it? I can't really let the bike warm up with the race ECM on because it won't stay running. It literally doesn't run. The AFV is already set to 100.
rchuff
Well-known member
With race ecm in bike do tps reset 4.6 degrees 5.1% and put afv to 120 and get back to us and let me know what happens bike should run. (Don't worry if bike is not warm yet)
After reading over your original post a few times, it looks like your bike ran fine with the original (stock) ECM with the exception of some flat spots. Then you swapped in a Race ECM, did a TPS reset and that's when your current running issues started. I'd say you either performed your TPS reset incorrectly, your Race ECM has a problem (or a bad map in it), or it isn't the correct one for your bike model/year.
The factory manual specifies a TPS degree setting between 5.2 and 5.6 degrees after you've zeroed the TPS. There is no precise degree setting that you must set it at. It's just a temporary setting that should allow the motor to idle, nothing more. You're going to adjust it again after the bike is warmed up. If the bike is cold, it may idle a little high while the Cold Enrichment (like a choke on carbureted motors) richens the fuel mixture while the motor comes up to temp (160 deg C, 320 deg F), at which point you then set the final idle speed (1050-1150 rpm) as the last step of the TPS reset procedure. If the idle hangs a little high at stop lights, you may need to back off the idle a hair. Also note that the TPS calibration is unique to that ECM once set. You need to reset the TPS for any other ECM swapped onto your bike, but only once, since the ECMs will retain their TPS calibration for the TPS sensor on your bike, even if removed or re-installed. To your question about disconnecting/disabling the O2 sensor when resetting the AFV to 100 - No, it is not necessary or of any benefit. The 02 sensor is disconnected/disabled by some as part of the tuning process, and maybe where you read about it, but that's another discussion altogether.
If you're not experienced doing a TPS reset (not saying you aren't), it's easy to misunderstand the TPS procedure, although it's not difficult. The crucial step that is typically done incorrectly is the TPS/idle adjustment prior to reset. People often look at the TPS degree reading while backing of the adjustment and stop when it says "0", and hit reset. Instead, you need to slowly back off the adjustment until the degree value stops decreasing, regardless of what the degree value is. It may actually go past "0" to a negative value until the throttle plate is actually closed. Once the value stops decreasing, stop backing off the adjustment. Snap the throttle handgrip a few times to work out any tension or slack in the throttle cables and back the adjustment out an additional a full turn to ensure that the throttle plate is truly and surely closed. I always snap the throttle a few more times just to confirm that the degree value doesn't decrease any more. THEN hit reset, adjust TPS to 5.2-5.6 degrees for initial idle, warm up ride, and then final idle adjustment.
If there is nothing wrong with your stock ECM, other than some flat spots, you may be better off just using it and tuning it to optimize it for your intake/exhaust setup since you know your bike at least runs with it. Throwing on a race ECM isn't going to necessarily be any better since it's mapped for the factory race exhaust, not the exhaust you currently have on your bike. Even if it's new off the shelf, you're just as likely to have flat spots somewhere with the race ECM and would need to tune it anyways, just as you can with the stock ECM. If the race ECM isn't new, it could have a borked map or one that has a profile that would make your bike run like crap. Make sense? If the bike runs and you need to tune anyways, it doesn't matter whether you're using the stock or race ECM. The timing on the race ECM is slightly different, but not enough that I'd be concerned with at this time if I were you.
Sorry for the long-winded post. That was a lot longer than I meant it to be.
The factory manual specifies a TPS degree setting between 5.2 and 5.6 degrees after you've zeroed the TPS. There is no precise degree setting that you must set it at. It's just a temporary setting that should allow the motor to idle, nothing more. You're going to adjust it again after the bike is warmed up. If the bike is cold, it may idle a little high while the Cold Enrichment (like a choke on carbureted motors) richens the fuel mixture while the motor comes up to temp (160 deg C, 320 deg F), at which point you then set the final idle speed (1050-1150 rpm) as the last step of the TPS reset procedure. If the idle hangs a little high at stop lights, you may need to back off the idle a hair. Also note that the TPS calibration is unique to that ECM once set. You need to reset the TPS for any other ECM swapped onto your bike, but only once, since the ECMs will retain their TPS calibration for the TPS sensor on your bike, even if removed or re-installed. To your question about disconnecting/disabling the O2 sensor when resetting the AFV to 100 - No, it is not necessary or of any benefit. The 02 sensor is disconnected/disabled by some as part of the tuning process, and maybe where you read about it, but that's another discussion altogether.
If you're not experienced doing a TPS reset (not saying you aren't), it's easy to misunderstand the TPS procedure, although it's not difficult. The crucial step that is typically done incorrectly is the TPS/idle adjustment prior to reset. People often look at the TPS degree reading while backing of the adjustment and stop when it says "0", and hit reset. Instead, you need to slowly back off the adjustment until the degree value stops decreasing, regardless of what the degree value is. It may actually go past "0" to a negative value until the throttle plate is actually closed. Once the value stops decreasing, stop backing off the adjustment. Snap the throttle handgrip a few times to work out any tension or slack in the throttle cables and back the adjustment out an additional a full turn to ensure that the throttle plate is truly and surely closed. I always snap the throttle a few more times just to confirm that the degree value doesn't decrease any more. THEN hit reset, adjust TPS to 5.2-5.6 degrees for initial idle, warm up ride, and then final idle adjustment.
If there is nothing wrong with your stock ECM, other than some flat spots, you may be better off just using it and tuning it to optimize it for your intake/exhaust setup since you know your bike at least runs with it. Throwing on a race ECM isn't going to necessarily be any better since it's mapped for the factory race exhaust, not the exhaust you currently have on your bike. Even if it's new off the shelf, you're just as likely to have flat spots somewhere with the race ECM and would need to tune it anyways, just as you can with the stock ECM. If the race ECM isn't new, it could have a borked map or one that has a profile that would make your bike run like crap. Make sense? If the bike runs and you need to tune anyways, it doesn't matter whether you're using the stock or race ECM. The timing on the race ECM is slightly different, but not enough that I'd be concerned with at this time if I were you.
Sorry for the long-winded post. That was a lot longer than I meant it to be.
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