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help!!!!! im new here!!!! New buell!!!

Buellxb Forum

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babytdragger

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
10
OK, I will do my best here! Im new on the forum and completely new to owning a buell! I just bought a 2003 buell xb9s last week! I need help finding info, please! Iv rode it 17 miles so far!!! Most forums that im on have a search bar to search previous posts to prevent multiple posts of the same ?'s. Iv not found that here. So my main questions are.....

1. I want to do away with that gawdy rear fender on my bike, how do I do it, where do I buy?
2. I want my bike louder, Its bone stock now....I want it loud but with out damage and perferably without remapping the ecm! If nessacary how do I tune it or get it tuned?
3. Where can I buy the frame sliders? not axle sliders but Frame sliders?
4. The front brakes feel like they pulse........I would imagine a large rotor like they have to be harder to warp.....is it likly that it is warped or is the pulsing natural?

Thanks in advance for all of your guys help!!!!
 
Maybe I am an excessively nerdy (which i am) but google is better than any search button on any forum. You can just use operators to drill down your searching (aka 'Google Hacking')

Example searches

Rear fender eliminator site:buellxb.com
Hid Kit site:http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Firebolt-XB12-XB9

I have used that to find really old threads on exact topics I am looking for. Which is why some people on here have gotten PM's from me on random old posts.

PS - Welcome to the Forum !

Matt
 
ship your tail piece to me and i will chop it for free you just pay shipping.
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2 Stevenc150 - I respect your knowledge on Buells & most of your posts are extremely useful, but I would never reccomend to install these sliders you mentioned above. Reason is simple - if a bike falls - it is almost guaranteed that transmission cover would be terribly damaged by slider's console, & what is even worse - it can break the engine body. on the other side it is almost guarantee to break engine mount. sad to say - I've seen both cases, in Italy & in Russia. Hard to guarantee but I'm sure that without these sliders damage of course would appear but not in such a huge forms.

Pardon for messy English
Best Regards!
 
2 Stevenc150 - I respect your knowledge on Buells & most of your posts are extremely useful, but I would never reccomend to install these sliders...almost guarantee to break engine mount. sad to say - I've seen both cases, in Italy & in Russia....
Thank you for posting up - I'd never heard any real-world feedback on these sliders. Definitely agree with you and will edit my previous post. [up] to you.
 
Welcome! I have the same year xb9 and did a couple of the same things you did. I bought a Hawk exhaust about 2 months after getting my bike, and from last August until 2 weeks ago i rode it with the stock ECM and the bike ran fine. Leave the stock air filter in and you shouldn't have any issues. You'll get a slight pop on deceleration, but it's nothing bad. In all honesty though, if you're gonna get the exhaust there's no reason not to update the ECM. You can buy a cable for $40, and download the program and race map for free. It's not like other bikes that you have to buy a powercommander and all that to get it sorted. Someone even made a video to show you step by step how to do it. http://www.buellmods.com/index.php/...-to/4-convert-stock-ecm-maps-to-race-maps.php and feel free to let me know if you have any questions. I watched the video twice through, then went step by step and followed along with it. There's a race map you can download here, it's the same I just loaded into mine. https://sites.google.com/site/ecmspy/xb9/2003

Haven't gotten to ride it with the new map yet since it's the beginning of February, but I'm hoping for the best.

As far as the fender eliminator, if you get a hawk exhaust, I believe he'll cut yours down for free as well as long as you pay for shipping, but you can also just spend some time with a cut off wheel and grinder and cut it down yourself. Just browse through some pictures to get an idea and go at it. It's nothing too complicated. When I was done I just painted mine with truck bed liner and it's held up great. Then just find a way to mount your plate, here's what I came up with for mine. It's definitely a little rough around the edges, but I'll put it off and clean it up someday when I'm bored....

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I ordered my frame pucks from surdyke.com, not sure if they still sell them or not.

As far as the brakes. I think having a bigger rotor probably makes it easier to warp. Mine is slightly. I can't feel it under normal or fast riding, but I do feel it under very fast riding, and on the few occasions I've tried to lift the back wheel off the ground I can feel the front pulsing a little bit, so I'm going to have to replace it this spring.

I 2nd the recommendation for searching on google. The forum does have a search function, but it's not worth the time, just add "site:buellxb.com" as one of your keywords. Let us know if you have any other question!
 
thanks for all the help guys! You all have been very helpful and informative. Please please keep it coming. Im in central kentucky by the way. Anyone know the paint code for the rear fender/license plate?
 
2. I want my bike louder, Its bone stock now....I want it loud but with out damage and perferably without remapping the ecm! If nessacary how do I tune it or get it tuned?

If you want to get your bike tuned contact theoctopus. He can help you out with that.
 
In regards to the rotor:

It is a common misconception that the rotors warp easily. TYPICALLY (emphasis added because it is possible that it is warped) you are just dealing with brake deposits on the rotor. The stock pads are especially susceptible to doing this. What tends to happen is they leave brake dust behind, and then while sitting at a light with the brake clamped, the dust gets "cooked" onto a spot of the rotor, and that spot creates the pulsing sensation.

My recommendations (and following these has not failed anyone I know of yet!):
1) replace the pads with EBC HH pads. They will have a similar feel to the stock pads, and they don't leave the same deposits.
2) buy this rotor mounting kit: ROTOR KIT. You'll need to replace the hardware when you remove the rotor anyway, and this kit is MUCH improved and cheaper than OEM.
3) remove the rotor, and clean with some simple green and steel wool. REMOVAL IS KEY here or you will stain your rims!
4) from now on, when at stop lights, use your rear brake to hold you in place, not the front.

Here's the thought process: #3 removes the deposits, #1 helps to eliminate the brake dust that causes future deposits, #2 helps to dissipate heat better which is a step towards eliminating the heat that causes the deposits, #4 helps to eliminate hot spots on the rotor that cause deposits.

Good luck and welcome to the madness!
 
CORRECTION TO THE ABOVE POST! (WHY can't we edit our posts here??):

Use STAINLESS STEEL wool! Do not use steel wool, as it can leave some of the carbon behind and leave you with rust on the rotor.
 
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