Help me make her flickable please

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Loki

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Aug 10, 2010
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I love my bike and everyone talks about how flickable and amazing they are in the turns. I have all my compressions set to the way the manual says (for the enhanced right) the extra turns out you know. Also my front preload lines are 7, my rear preload position is 3. I weigh 150lbs and i am 6'2".

As you can tell by the video and the pictures i get low, but my bike feels heavy and i have work it alot to get it to lean. I want to be able to blow past my friends in the lean aspect so it doesnt sound like im talking nonsense when i say our buells are top notch at lean! Plus some knee action sometime would be great.

Please help
Video:


Pictures:
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7726_20110412083522_L.jpg

Also my front tire is a brand new diablo
the rear tire (needs to be replaced soon) is stock. All the psi should be correct on them. Dont have to gauge to check em at the moment.
Thank you.
 
7 doesn't sound right for a 150lb rider. I'm 145lbs and I've got about 5 lines. Not sure how to work with the compression and rebound though. I'd definitely check out your tire pressure, you can buy a gauge for 99cents.

Ooh, and replace your rear tired before you make too many other changes. I noticed a huge huge difference when I changed my rear tire. The bike just started to fall into turns.
 
settings are personal prefrence and riding style its going to hard for someone to recomend settings or your body position without being there watching you.your best bet is a trackday where an instructor can watch you and give you advise.
 
Was just wondering to myself today what the average chicken strip on a front tire looked like.

And about the flickable thing just... PUSH:p

But seriously, if your having issues, getting with someone that has a bit of expierence would help. If your willing to do it I know there are people out there that you can pay that will ghost you while videoing to get your technique down. I believe they help you set your bike up as well. I might be completely offbase with that answer, but good luck.
 
You'll be amazed how far she'll lean over when you "PUSH" the bar that is on the inside of a corner!

~Mike....
 
Should it feel like it's fighting you? and what would be the average speed on a relatively tight turn?
 
I've never gotten my front tire chicken stripes close then an inch, maybe 3/4". I love when people point out my rears though. They are damn near at the edge.
 
From Keith Code Suspension Education Program.
"The main reason to change a bike's ride height is to alter the steering geometry of the bike to either help it to turn more quickly or become more stable. More ride height quickens the steering. but makes the bike less stable and reduces rear grip under power. Less ride height slows the steering, but makes the bike more stable and increases rear grip under power."
Too much ride height will give you:High speed instability
Poor rear grip
Instability under heavy braking
Too little ride height will give you:Understeer on corner exit
Difficulty in changing direction
Poor front-end grip on exit"

Do you set your sag?
 
If turning in properly and making a good line, you should be able to pull a hand off the bar and still cut a line through a turn.

From what little I watched in the video, it looks like you are fighting the bike instead of letting it work the bike work. You seem to be spending a bit of time evaluating the entire scenerio instead a looking at all the points in the turn and making a good final product. Being smooth is the key to turning.

By Twist of the Wrist and read it. Great info. Had my copy for almost 12 years.

On my 12r I can drag knee with one hand on the bar. Let the bike work for you and not the other way around.
 
Flaya-I don't really notice how much force I'm using to countersteer if I'm really low in a lean(too busy consentrating on where I want my tires to go). Tight turns differ from person to person. Some of the hairpins I live by I don't think I take over 40, again not looking at speedo, so guestimate. Other relatively tight turns I am damn near redlining in third whatever that translates into.
 
Start cheap and easy. When I first got mine it was very "heavy" feeling as well. As it turns out, the front tire was about 10psi low. I aired it up and wow, what a difference! It was like a whole different bike. No more heaviness in the steering. It was a definite improvement in the "flickability" you mentioned. Granted, I am a 6 ft. tall 255 lb. fat guy so everything I do to the bike makes a noticable difference.
 
With the bike i get my body half way off (down the mirror like i should, half butt off) and even with that lean i have to pull a damn good bit to get her to come with me. Its like shes really heavy and doesnt want to do but she does feel like she is really stable. I didnt even notice how close i was getting to the edge of the tire until i looked at it after a ride. For all the talk about flickablity and grip my bike just grips at its current setup. I want it to be flickable as well. Its just to damn tough to get her to lean with me, and if i was into a hard S turn, theres no way i could pull her over fast enough to get the lean on both. Steering is just to heavy. Whole body lean PLUS handle bar steer.

My friends do tell me i look great in my turns though. Both friends have offered to film me. I will probably do this tomorrow.

So do a few of you think i should turn my front preload down a few lines?

EDIT: just as a little reminder of how much body i had to use. That ride in the video, with me being in the army, bicycle guy, and just a fit dude. I was sore the next day from it. In the thighs. It was fun tho. Just tiring.
 
Again, COUNTER STEERING.... are you doing it? cornering should be effortless on a Buell using proper technique. Tell us your suspension settings (Compression, rebound, and preload on the front and rear), and tire pressure.

~Mike....
 
I just told you i am counter steering. But how hard do you think i should be pulling on the damn thing? And i told you preload, and all the others is set to the manual enhanced ride (extra 1/2 rear, and front) I will get tire pressure tomorrow and a video of how I ride.
 
I just told you i am counter steering. But how hard do you think i should be pulling on the damn thing?

No you didn't, your describing it as "pulling the bike over with you." That's not counter steering at all, you need to PUSH the inside bar OUT or foreword. It's counter intuitive to steer the opposite direction of the corner, but that is the ONLY way to steer a bike properly at any speed over parking lot speed. Turning right, you push on the right handle bar and make your front wheel steer LEFT. Look at a few youtube vids on it, you are working too hard and trying to bring the bike over. Once you figure out counter steering the bike will fall into a turn effortlessly (like mattgti describes).

And i told you preload, and all the others is set to the manual enhanced ride (extra 1/2 rear, and front)

Trying to help you out. I was looking for how many clicks out your adjusters are to get a baseline on what you got going on. I won't however look up what "enhanced ride" settings are to figure out where you have your settings and you didn't mention year and model (it is an R right?) and the settings in the manual differs from year models (fork change from the 03~04 to 05~07 and then again in 08~10).

Just some basics though.

*Preload sets your ride height and/or sag.

Lowering the front and/or raising the back will make the bike more responsive. Turn in will be quicker and changing directions can be done faster. But, you loose straight line and high speed stability.

The opposite is true if you lower the rear or raise the front. Your steering will be less responsive yet more stable.

Raising both increases response as well and will sacrifice stability.

*Compression dampening as the name imply's controls dampening as the suspension is compressed. Tightening either end will loose grip on that end. Loosening compression on either end will gain you grip on that end. So if you loosened (clicks out, or counter clockwise) your front, you'll gain traction in the front, but you also will get more brake dive. Loosen the rear, you get better rear traction (in cornering and under acceleration). Compression also controls body motions front to back.

*Rebound dampening controls how fast your shocks extend back to their normal state or ride height. It will control how fast your suspension recovers from a bump and also can control body motions (Brake dive, accel squat etc.)


The harder (clockwise tightening) the settings (both compression and dampening) the more responsive the handling but harsher the ride and loose of grip in changing road conditions (bumps, seems in the asphalt/concrete, etc.). Opposite for loosening the settings. Loosening will make the bike more docile and forgiving to rider inputs and road conditions.

So, to speed the response of the bike up, lift the rear and tighten up the compression and rebounds. How much front to back and how tight depends on the rider. Start with only ONE change at a time then ride. If the change went in favor of what your looking for, then keeping making changes in that direction one change at a time.

But honestly, the way your describing riding the bike, I think you just need more experience. When I discovered how to counter steer properly it was like a light bulb went on and it all just fell into place and became effortless to lay a bike (ANY BIKE) over and corner hard!

~Mike....
 
I noticed myself, dont know if this is a "duh" moment, but when im going into a turn I speed up into it and work the clutch as I use my body to push into the turn and lean. Im not at the point of knee dragging yet though. (roads out here suck).

As far as suspension goes, i went by the manual, but then i made everything a tad softer then it says. It works for me 130lbs.
 
Adding throttle typically stands the bike up. You should decelerate before the corner, hold speed to hold a line and lean angle, then add throttle to pick the bike back up as you exit. Once you've mastered this, then you can play with accelerate/decelerate into and out of corners in a different order than I just said.

~Mike....
 
When i was saying pull the bike over i was talking about counter steering. Sorry i didnt say it in those exact words. Ive done alot of counter steering and ive had to learn to not counter steer so much cause of past speed wobbles in turns and coming close to some tank slappers coming out of some turns. And honestly theres no way i could go into some of those turns and lean far enough to run through it without counter steering. Also getting your body half off the bike pretty much forces you to use some counter steering.

Thank you for the explanation on what each setting does. And from my riding so far i do like the compression and rebound so far. May have to go alittle be softer but not much. I think i will raise my rear and give that a try. Also might lower the front one.

And its a 08 firebolt.

If i seem annoyed its just because ive had a bad day and i am in a really bad/down mood.

Also if this is to me
Adding throttle typically stands the bike up.
You can hear in my video that i do let off the throttle before each turn and then apply it after the apex. Unless i wanted to go faster.
 
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