Help! Trouble removing of stock exhaust on 2009 1125CR.

[au-rora]

I am part way into removing the stock exhaust so that I can fit a Barker Exhaust. I'm having big trouble removing the hexagonal cap screw (6mm) from the right front exhaust mount. The other three exh mount cap screws have come out without drama. But this one it TIGHT and won't budge and bloody hard to get a good bite with bad access into it. Have applied heat with heat gun - but so far has made no difference. I figured that it could be my luck that this sod may have loctite on its thread!! The problem is that the pipes are obscuring direct front access into the cap screw, I can only get into it from a slight angle. A long allen key with hex-ball end will go in on a slight angle, but it bends to the point where I'm sure the torsion is going to shatter the shaft of the allen key or worse, chew out the hex cap. I am well kitted with many hex drive tool options, but they're all too broad, or too something, to get front access into the hex head. I can only get a small stubby allen key in from overhead but with stuff all leverage potential (another recipe for disaster). Have even tried vice grips coming in from the right side, but they slipped and started to chew the outside of the round cap screw. I've posted some pics showing the situation. Has any forum member had to resolve this issue with their CR's when removing the stock exhaust? Any advice much appreciated, yes humour is good, but serious advice may be more helpful. Haha. Thanks guys!

 

[d_adams]

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/17143/608173.html?1428111618

 

[au-rora]

d_adams - Thanks for the link Dean to your guide for removal of an 1125 exhaust. That's a great general guide. but this issue is not covered. The problem I have is that on my 1125CR, standard hex keys don't allow both access, pressure and leverage to crack the 6mm cap screw on the front right mount. It's all because the exhaust pipe as sitting close in front of the cap screw impeding direct access by standard tools. Do we need to custom fabricate a special tool along the lines of a tommy bar or a slender angle/kinked hex T-bar to crack and start this cap screw turning? Once it's started turning getting it out fill be easy; it's cracking it without munching it that's the issue.

 

[mrlogix]

try a hex key socket (short one or cut one down) on a 1/4" or 3/8" breaker bar.

 

[d_adams]

I used standard craftsman tools to remove quite a few of them. A ball tip allen socket set, both standard and metric should be a part of your toolbox. I think the set I have is on average 4-5" long, so accessing the bolts was easy enough. The hard one was the single nut that's not captured by the exhaust, that's the one that spins and requires a wrench to remove.

 

[au-rora]

mrlogix - Thanks for the good suggestions. I have sundry flexible 1/4" & 3/8" mini ratchet drives and flexible socket drives. But because the stock exhaust is so damn close to the front of the cap screw, none of these can allow a hex bit to slip direct into the cap screw. I've been thinking that I'd need to custom fabricate a tommy bar with a short offset hex bit welded onto the end (like this photoshoped knock up).

 

[au-rora]

d_adams - Thanks dean! That's my solution!! A ball tip allen socket set will allow angled access into the obscured hex cap screw, and allow pressure and strength to crack the screw with a strong socket wrench and extension bar driving it. Thanks mate! I don't have ball tip allen sockets in my kit, but that can/will soon be rectified. This is what they look like for anyone interested.

 

[d_adams]

Those look like the short version, the ones I have are a little longer.

 

[au-rora]

Dean, jumping online and looking thru different brands, there seem to be different length ones available from stubby hex shafts to much longer ones. I'll need to decide which length is best for this job (and maybe others) and then source a suitable set. Sounds like your longer Craftsman set have worked well for you. Thanks again for your help!! I owe you!!

 

[au-rora]

Better still I just made a simple equivalent tool that has done the same job of removing the problem cap screw. Crack, out she came. Will be back to post a shot showing what I put together to do it. All exhaust mount cap screws are now loose &/or out.

 

[mrlogix]

Those look like the short version, the ones I have are a little longer

LMFAO, of course they are

 

[d_adams]

I'd post pics, but we don't wanna go there, do we?

 

[au-rora]

What the...
...a tool size shoot out?
Crikey, I'm outa here! Haha

 

[au-rora]

Here's the wondrous DIY tool that I put together with on-hand bits n pieces. And it worked just fine for freeing and getting that dreaded cap screw out.

 

[au-rora]

In use - taking it out.

 

[au-rora]

And around on the left side of the bike, taking out the 6mm cap screw that holds the rear left exhaust mount, accessed through the tensioning pulley.

 

[au-rora]

Back to right side. With front pipe clamps loose... rear brake gear unscrewed and dangling (or better is with cable tie holding it up out of the way)... wiggle stock exhaust and drop gently onto some of my darlings best blankets. Shhhh!

Stock exhaust off.
Now for the easy part... fitting the new Barker system!!

 

[au-rora]

Well, the Barker system went on so easily, it was done before I realised that I'd not taken any shots. Anyway, here is the Barker system - job completed! Sounds brutal!!





I may add some shots showing the three different Barker Quiet Core options.
Also, If there any close up shots (of any of this) that anybody needs please feel free to ask me.

 

[au-rora]

The CR now with the new Barker system.