marcel
Well-known member
Finally the projectors came in!!! I couldn't wait, so this evening/night I tried so stuff. There is still work to be done, but it already gives you a good impression!
HID/Xenon install Lightning
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marcel
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Inside the housing
marcel
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They look nice, but I couldn't close the housing, because the lens would touch the lens of the housing. So the first step was to make some room. Starting with the metal clip that's in the reflector.
As you can see there are 2 notches which have to go. With the Dremel I made it flush with the reflector.
(Photo with the 2 notches)
As you can see there are 2 notches which have to go. With the Dremel I made it flush with the reflector.
(Photo with the 2 notches)
marcel
Well-known member
So I tried again, and it looks good!
With a bit of force I can close the housing. But because of the heat of the Xenon, I'm not confident that the plastic lens of the housing will handle this. Tomorrow I will make the hole of the reflector a bit wider. This will make the projectors come more to the inside. To be continued!
With a bit of force I can close the housing. But because of the heat of the Xenon, I'm not confident that the plastic lens of the housing will handle this. Tomorrow I will make the hole of the reflector a bit wider. This will make the projectors come more to the inside. To be continued!
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marcel
Well-known member
So I found a solution. Make the hole a bite wider. And this worked like a charm.
I used an extra ring to secure the projector.
And finale I make the connection for the high beam and the Angel eyes
I used an extra ring to secure the projector.
And finale I make the connection for the high beam and the Angel eyes
infinitereality
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Looking good, sounds like very little issues!
marcel
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It's not on the bike jet, but I think it will be next weekend 
I will than make a couple of beam shots. I tested the wiring harnas and it works like a charm. I'm a bit in doubt about which Xenon Ballast to use. I have 35watts and 50watts, but I'm a bit afraid that 50watts will be to much for the small housing. It's very difficult to make a photo of the strong light, but here is a shot of the Angel eyes.
I think this looks AWESOME especially with my thoughts of the evil eyes look (lowering the windscreen). Then I would look something like this (be aware of this amazing photoshop )
I will than make a couple of beam shots. I tested the wiring harnas and it works like a charm. I'm a bit in doubt about which Xenon Ballast to use. I have 35watts and 50watts, but I'm a bit afraid that 50watts will be to much for the small housing. It's very difficult to make a photo of the strong light, but here is a shot of the Angel eyes.
I think this looks AWESOME especially with my thoughts of the evil eyes look (lowering the windscreen). Then I would look something like this (be aware of this amazing photoshop
)
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Man those Look pretty sweet. I really like the lowered windscreen idea. It gives it a meaner look. I have heard about the 50w's melting the mirrored finish in the projector bowl in car headlights, so I would assume in a smaller housing it would be worse. Did you by any chance compare these projectors size to the morimoto mini h1's through the retrofit source?
marcel
Well-known member
I did look at the Morimoto mini's but those are not "mini" enough they are 4cm taller than the projectors I've used. My idea now is to start with the 35 watt's and see how it goes. If I feel that there is not enough light (which I actually doubt) I can always (easily) upgrade to the 55 watt's.
I also like the angry look, but I don't want to lower the top hole of the windscreen to the bottom hole of the assembly. I also don't want to re-drill the windscreen, so that leaves me with drilling into the assebly which holds the windscreen. Anybody done this before?
they are 4cm taller than the projectors I've used. My idea now is to start with the 35 watt's and see how it goes. If I feel that there is not enough light (which I actually doubt) I can always (easily) upgrade to the 55 watt's. I also like the angry look, but I don't want to lower the top hole of the windscreen to the bottom hole of the assembly. I also don't want to re-drill the windscreen, so that leaves me with drilling into the assebly which holds the windscreen. Anybody done this before?
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Ya. Just drill and tap the mounting bracket, it's easy and thin. That way theres no unsightly extra holes or bolts in the screen.
Just equal distant to the existing holes is about perfect. The top of the windscreen is just at the gauges, and it's not too low over the lights:up: Mark the holes first using the windscreen and you'll see you are close to the edge on the bottom holes so be careful, or raise it up a hair. Also note that the bolts are going in at an angle, but parallel to the mounting surface.
Alternatively , you can do the same trick with an extended screen and just cut it to the height you like after its lowered.
You get bonus points for installing nut-serts instead of tapping the hole. It's a bit nicer but needs a special tool.
Just equal distant to the existing holes is about perfect. The top of the windscreen is just at the gauges, and it's not too low over the lights:up: Mark the holes first using the windscreen and you'll see you are close to the edge on the bottom holes so be careful, or raise it up a hair. Also note that the bolts are going in at an angle, but parallel to the mounting surface.
Alternatively , you can do the same trick with an extended screen and just cut it to the height you like after its lowered.
You get bonus points for installing nut-serts instead of tapping the hole. It's a bit nicer but needs a special tool.
marcel
Well-known member
Thanks Cooter!!! This will help me on my way and it is exactly the height I was aiming for. Although I like the look of using the bottom hole for the top hole of the windscreen, the totally exposed gauges didn't seem right to me. What you are descriping seems perfect! I would love to have those bonus points but have actually never seen this tool/way of working!
And if all else fails, I will try the method of Gronx
but have actually never seen this tool/way of working!And if all else fails, I will try the method of Gronx
Even Harbor Freight has a cheap version of the tool that comes with the nut-serts (also called rivet-nuts). It's priceless for bolting stuff to sheet metal.
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piece-threaded-insert-riveter-kit-1210.html
marcel
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That's cheap Cooter. I've seen some youtube video's about the tool and it looks awesome!! Unfortunately Harbor Freight does not send it overseas to the Netherlands. I will see if this tool is also cheap around here!
infinitereality
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I need one of those too.
Retrofit is looking good!
Retrofit is looking good!
marcel
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Yesterday I did a small update on the project. I've made the wiring harnas from the headlight to the bike. (picture will follow). I did this with a 6 way waterproof connector and already made some connections for the "alarmlicht module" (The bluebox in the picture is an extra module which will flash both my indicators and High beam, when I drive the bike trough a traffic jam.) and from the parking light I took power for my navigation.
This way, I will have a strong connection from headlight to bike, and still I can detach the headlight assembly.
Below is the self made diagram which I followed.
+ and ground from low beam (which will trigger the relay which operates the ballasts)
+ parking light. Power for navigation and for the "alarmlicht module" (blue box)
+ for indicator left. To power the indicator ring left
+ for indicator right. To power the indicator ring right.
+ high beam. The "alarmlicht module" (blue box) can operate high beam when driving trough a traffic jam.
(of course this is not my bike )
Hopefully I have some time this weekend to install it all on the bike. I still need to figure out how I can get a wire from the battery to the windscreen in a good manner. anyone have tips/tricks for this? Would be great to get a photo of the best way.
This way, I will have a strong connection from headlight to bike, and still I can detach the headlight assembly.
Below is the self made diagram which I followed.
+ and ground from low beam (which will trigger the relay which operates the ballasts)
+ parking light. Power for navigation and for the "alarmlicht module" (blue box)
+ for indicator left. To power the indicator ring left
+ for indicator right. To power the indicator ring right.
+ high beam. The "alarmlicht module" (blue box) can operate high beam when driving trough a traffic jam.
(of course this is not my bike
)
Hopefully I have some time this weekend to install it all on the bike. I still need to figure out how I can get a wire from the battery to the windscreen in a good manner. anyone have tips/tricks for this? Would be great to get a photo of the best way.
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marcel
Well-known member
So this is the end result for now. Everything is fits nicely and the projectors don't touch the lens of the housing.
Hopefully I have some time on Monday to install them on the bike!
Hopefully I have some time on Monday to install them on the bike!
infinitereality
Member
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- Apr 25, 2016
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I dig the shrouds even more now, looks awesome inside the housings. Can't wait for output pictures and thoughts!
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