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High idle problems en trouble Gatting rpm down

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Waver1971

Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
9
Location
Groningen, the Netherlands
Hi

I ride a Uly 2006, 81000km
I changed the sparkplugs en did a TPS reset because the Uly was running very bad at low rpm. The TPS adjusting cable snapped but was able to reach the remains of te cable by removing the plate that holds the airfilter and adjusted the TPS to 5.5.
It ran beautifully for about a minute and then i stopped the engine to put everything back together.

I drove it for a couple of minutes and idle was rising to 2000 rpm. Checked it and found one of the sparkplug caps being too loose. Fastened it, adjusted TPS once again and now idle seemed okay but when i started driving idle increased to 3500 rpm and wouldnt drop if I closed the throttle.

Since I woke the Uly from its wintersleep the neutral light is always burning.

Now it runs idle beween 2000 and 4000 rpm and rpm and fluctuating. Lots of backfire in the gaschamber sometimes almost stalling. Is this a known problem? What is your idea?
Intake seals? Bad TPS?
I am hearing the seals and TPS cable replaced.
Please help. Greetings from the Netherlands
 
Last edited:
you want to always set your TPS adjustment at room temperature. i prefer 5.1 but 5.5 is also fine.
after achieving that number you then start your Uly and bring up to running temp. at that time then adjust your warm curb idle speed to approx. 1000rpm....NOT much higher.
check to be sure both your throttle cable pull and push cables adjusted properly. you need a bit of slack in your pull cable for the idle speed to automatically return at all times to the pre-determined rpm setting.
check to see that your TB butterfly is working smoothly and not hanging up and no carbon build-up on the TB plate.
most times a hanging high idle speed directly related to either faulty intake seals, dirty TB air plate or incorrectly set warm curb idle speed.
neutral light constantly on? check to make sure fuse box diode fuse properly installed with arrow pointing in correct position.
a faulty neutral light switch shorted to ground will activate the light at all times. the switch is to front and behind front belt pulley. remove front pulley cover and check it. replace if faulty. see my posts from last week and you'll see i posted up part # and how to trouble-shoot the switch.
lastly....sometimes a faulty neutral light switch will cause an erratic idle speed. don't know why....it just does.
 
Lunatic is right, all good checks there. (How many times do I say that?:angel:)
-The Throttle cables very easily could have been bend or binding. Know which one is which! Loosen the 'push' cable, then adjust your 'pull' cable for minimum slack, then you can adjust the 'push' cable.
- The neutral light could be the diode in the fuse box (check orientation to match the diagram on the fusebox cover) or most likely the neutral switch. Unplug the single wire connector at the front belt pulley (you need needle nose pliers for that) and the light should go out. Ground that wire and the light should turn on. If so, you need the neutral switch.
Additionally, check your re-installation of the airbox base plate. The throttle body seal at the base needs to be properly installed or they will run funny.

I have had issues in the past with the clutch switch (at the lever) causing a high idle, Use an ohm meter to check for continuity while activating the lever.
 
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