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wally

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
620
Location
Bellville, South Africa
Got the header off after Thursday's excursion.

O2 sensor cracked completely off!
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Reckon this is fixable or do I have to start looking for replacement headers?
 
Damn thats pretty bad. If you cant afford a new one, that could probably be welded. I would just be sure its done by someone that knows what they are doing due to the crack being so close to where it bolts to the head.
 
Needs to be cleaned well and then make sure the inside gets purged when it's tig welded back together. It's fixable. Switching to XB12 headers should get a small boost in performance, so if you don't have a good welder available, go that route.
 
Took it in to the guy that did the Yahweh bike exhaust.

He reckons an easy fix and shouldn't cost more than R150 (US$15) to fix.
Apparently quite a regular sight on the KTMs and I shouldn't feel left out.
He has fixed heaps of similar happenings.

Feel bit more relieved! ;)
 
its weldable but the metal gave up there due to heat, vibration and decay. especially as it was cracked already.. it didnt happen instantly. that damage quickly escalated when it first cracked then the air leak it created acted as a welding cutting torch to further destroy the metal.

Its heavily carbonized and will fail again if you dont significantly re-inforce the surrounding metal. Just like on many british bikes or older Harleys,, fenders fatigue and crack from the vibration, you can weld them up and they crack again next to the welds partly from the heat affected zones of the welds as well as being fatigued to begin with.

Ever take an old piece of thin metal, bend it back and forth over and over? eventually it work hardens and breaks or cracks. same principle on the old fenders,, but the exhaust pipes are even more brittle basically being next to a torch flame for many miles,

All part of the design, You might note that very few production cars use thin wall exhaust manifolds or headers, most use a thick wall cast iron, the reason is for every moment of operation its degrading, and wearing away. In the service life of a car, thats factored in and often exceeds the life of the car. Thin wall header pipes never live long and prosper UNLESS you have them ceramic coated,,, it acts as a barrier and shield therefore extending the life quite a bit. You will notice yours cracked and broke on the rear cyl where the temps are highest. and the least amount of cooling.

this is a concept the header wrap guys just simply dont comprehend or acknowledge,
 
Understood, but it is my only option for now.

I am getting it ceramic coated as well.

It will buy me some time to save up and be able to continue riding.
 
Okay, good deal, Hope it goes well, if beefed up and ceramic coated and you keep your hardware in good shape you might be able to nurse it along for a long time.

I feel your pain in your location, I used to have a American Muscle car (1963 Nova SS with a 327 V8) while living in Turkey and Germany. It was a serious PIA getting parts and anticipating my maintenance needs as well as a tight budget. I could order from the US but typically it was 4-6 weeks to arrive. On time an order was held up for a simple chevy fuel pump when the order guy wanted clarification on the fittings.... my answer was "I dont give a ****, just send a V8 fuel pump" sheesh,, if it had an extra port for a return id just block it off,,, sheesh, it held up the order and parts for a really long time. This was back before the internet was what it was.
 
Would you suggest internal and external coating?

A simple thing like plug wires took 3 weeks to get here from the States.
I have made peace with the fact that it is an "exotic" over here and parts will be an issue, though the HD dealership is under contract to supply serviceable parts till 2019.

I just didn't expect some thing so big to go wrong so quickly! :p

Also got my over my fear of doing a header removal for ceramic coating. :D
 
oh 100% YES coat the inside and outside, the outside helps and protects the metal, not to mention looks really nice, but the inside is the most important. The inside coating provides a barrier from the flames and heat of the exhaust from going INTO the metal,, it cant help but get hot to some degree but a HUGE difference..

the exhaust heat and residue just slides right out of there without impacting the exhaust pipe metal much at all,

which is what you want.

just as an FYI,, I also restore vintage bikes, and when i rebuild or restore a bike, I keep old exhausts hanging up in my storage area,, we break in the bike and do all the tuning and adjustments on the bike with the crappy old exhaust, Then after 250-500 miles, I install the new pipes,, new chrome. (Triumph, BSA, Nortons)

But what We do is we take the new pipes down and have them ceramic coated just on the ID of the pipes, As a result the pipe temps stay low, and more importantly the Pipes DO NOT turn blue.

I get comments at bike shows and events. "Nice bike, shame he doesnt ride it" My buddy rode his 1940 Triumph Speed twin into the All British field meet, competed against Jags, MGs, Austin Healeys, several thousand cars and 48 bikes that year He TOOK best of show,. He rode it in to the event and rode it out of the event. Some of the Jags were pushed by hand into the judging area. I liked watching the looks on peoples faces...

So that should give you an idea of how much heat it cuts down by ceramic coating,, All Buels would benefit from it, The pipe wrap guys dont see why it just kills their exhaust to INSULATE the heat into the metal.

Ever see those cheap ass BBQ grills that are propane or gas fueled? Notice the burner elements and how they turn to powder after one season.?? Thats the best comparison i can think of.

I hope you can get yours repaired.
 
Cool!

Thanx for the advice and please post some of the other bikes!

I am sure the fix will work - if at least for another 4 years, then I will be happy!
 
No problem. You can see some bikes on our website for the local museum i volunteer at and I put on events there, as well as educational seminars and classes.

www.nwcarandcycle.com The friend i mentioned Tom Ruttan, with the 1940 speedtwin is the museum board president. He has a nice collection of bikes himself

Ill be posting soon another discussion thread involving Nortons which have a LOT in common with Buells and Harley not to mention Harley came very close on 3 occasions of purchasing Norton. (1970s, 1980s and 2006)
Nortons were the first to commercially Rubber mount their powertrains and HD asked to copy it, when that didnt work EB designed their own system starting on the FXR. I have some of the prototype modern Nortons as well as all the CAD drawings, and engineer reports.

Im downsizing much of my own collection as well as selling some of the museum assets very soon.
 
Switching to XB12 headers should get a small boost in performance

A little off topic but...Is that true Dean? I would expect a larger primary to decrease exhaust scavenging and reduce backpressure thereby reducing torque and hp?
 
TIG. Yip, he is very good.

Excuse the blurry shots!

Told him not to grind down the welds as they will be hidden and I don't want to add more stress on that part of the header.

I am happy! [up]
 
the welds look excellent, nope, dontgrind down the wlds, black? silver? nuclear blue ? on the ceramic coatings?
should be happy with the results, post how it turns out, im happy for you
 
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