How to attach frame covers?
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use adhesive tape
The frame cover in Carbon for the Buell XB models complements the vehicle and provides additional protection of the vehicle from damage. The assembly of the parts is effected by adhesive tape supplied and / or the use of original recording points. Carbon was the part according to the latest guidelines in an autoclave made entirely of prepreg (see FAQ) and material covered in the next step, as usual with us, to protect against environmental influences with a clear plastic coating. This plastic coating is better than the usual clear coat enormously in the protection of carbon fiber parts. But not the technical properties of the coating, it also underlines the
http://shop.ilmberger-carbon.de/car...deckung-links-carbon-buell-xb-9-/-12-r?c=2195
The frame cover in Carbon for the Buell XB models complements the vehicle and provides additional protection of the vehicle from damage. The assembly of the parts is effected by adhesive tape supplied and / or the use of original recording points. Carbon was the part according to the latest guidelines in an autoclave made entirely of prepreg (see FAQ) and material covered in the next step, as usual with us, to protect against environmental influences with a clear plastic coating. This plastic coating is better than the usual clear coat enormously in the protection of carbon fiber parts. But not the technical properties of the coating, it also underlines the
http://shop.ilmberger-carbon.de/car...deckung-links-carbon-buell-xb-9-/-12-r?c=2195
Mesozoic
Well-known member
What is everyone doing about the intense galvanic corrosion that occurs between aluminum and carbon fiber?
Nothing. These aren't airplanes.
Mesozoic
Well-known member
LOL, I don't think I can ignore it because I work on airplanes everyday! The chafing that could occur between the cover and the frame can rapidly turn into a frame weakening situation. I've got these Speed of Color frame covers for my SS and they appear to have some kevlar or aramid fiber on the puck area to bolster the abrasion resistance - the frame covers are beautiful for sure, but the left side of my frame has a dent where the puck used to be and a few areas have worn through the paint/anodizing/whatever it is. I need to have some kind of spacing between the two... and I'm still not sure what kind of adhesive to use, keeping in mind that I live in an extremely hot climate.
As long as you dont sand the paint off the frame before attaching carbon fiber DIRECTLY to the frame, you should be OK.
In this case, I'd attach the side rails with some 3M double sided tape. The tape (and resulting air gap where there is no tape) will create an insulating layer between the aluminum and carbon. I'd recommend using tape found at an actual auto body supply shop (not Auto Zone or O'reillys). They will have a tape used for holding side moldings to car bodies. If prepped and installed correctly that bond will probably outlive the bike.
As long as they are isolated and cant chafe, you should be okay. They key is to install it correctly and keep an eye on it to be aware of any problems that can arise. Since you work on airplanes and are aware of the issues, you should be much further ahead of the curve than most of the people who just ride until there is a problem.
In this case, I'd attach the side rails with some 3M double sided tape. The tape (and resulting air gap where there is no tape) will create an insulating layer between the aluminum and carbon. I'd recommend using tape found at an actual auto body supply shop (not Auto Zone or O'reillys). They will have a tape used for holding side moldings to car bodies. If prepped and installed correctly that bond will probably outlive the bike.
As long as they are isolated and cant chafe, you should be okay. They key is to install it correctly and keep an eye on it to be aware of any problems that can arise. Since you work on airplanes and are aware of the issues, you should be much further ahead of the curve than most of the people who just ride until there is a problem.
Nailed it! Lol. How did I know??:black_eyed: The issue came up in airplanes (and I think Indy cars back in the day?) that were dealing with lots of flex, extreme temp changes, and static electricity. None of which are an issue with your Buell motorcycle.
34:19 is totally right. The paint layer and the gap is plenty to avoid any issue. There will be some unavoidable rubbing, but not enough to be a concern. If you want to install them, get the legit "3M trim tape" and just stick them on. You can get it at Home Depot. It doesn't take much, that stuff is crazy hard to remove.
I really don't think it's worth it but for your piece of mind, can you fit a layer of something like sheet rubber or foam between the two pieces?
Mesozoic
Well-known member
I ended up taking the bike to a shop named Hi Speed Customs right around the corner from my office. They have a motorcycle shop and I know some of the fellas that work there because I've been working in my office for almost 10 years. They've got a master aluminum welder who was willing to fix my tank/frame dent for a reasonable price, but when I contacted EBR they turned me off the welding idea because the inner liner of the tank would have to be reinstated.
So I got some aramid reinforced carbon frame covers from Speed of Color since they're one of only a handful of retailers that can get a hold of Lightning Long frame covers. Unfortunately, the dent in my tank has not only dented inward, but has created a bulge as well. This creates a problem even when trying to cover it up with a frame cover since it doesn't fit quite perfectly. The Hi Speed guys are going to take a closer look at it today, but they're saying that the bulge in the tank needs to be tapped back down. I'm concerned about work hardening the aluminum, but we'll see what they say.
So I got some aramid reinforced carbon frame covers from Speed of Color since they're one of only a handful of retailers that can get a hold of Lightning Long frame covers. Unfortunately, the dent in my tank has not only dented inward, but has created a bulge as well. This creates a problem even when trying to cover it up with a frame cover since it doesn't fit quite perfectly. The Hi Speed guys are going to take a closer look at it today, but they're saying that the bulge in the tank needs to be tapped back down. I'm concerned about work hardening the aluminum, but we'll see what they say.
Just tapping the bulge down isn't enough 'working' to harden the outer layer. It's still not an airplane, lol.
Mesozoic
Well-known member
You are correct, sir! They took a close look at the situation today, inspected the carbon covers, etc. They will tap the bulge back into shape, finish it, paint it, then install the carbon fiber covers with some kind of German panel bond that can withstand 1800*F and provides a thin cushion between the carbon and aluminum frame to avoid the corrosion issue. I asked them to also install the frame protector pucks over the carbon, but not sure if that looks cool? I'll post pics of the stuff when it's done... should be done by mid-next week.
Post pics for sure! Some good close-ups please, but make sure all the panties the chicks threw at you are out of the frame
Mesozoic
Well-known member
'08 XB12Ss with SpeedOfColor.de carbon frame covers
She looks good as new again! Hi Speed did a fantastic job, installed the pucks as well (had to remove and reuse the good puck from the frame, new one for the side that was damaged). They had to tap the aluminum back into shape to get the frame cover on the damaged side to fit, which they did very neatly.
She looks good as new again! Hi Speed did a fantastic job, installed the pucks as well (had to remove and reuse the good puck from the frame, new one for the side that was damaged). They had to tap the aluminum back into shape to get the frame cover on the damaged side to fit, which they did very neatly.
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Looks great! Thanks for the pics:eagerness:
OK, I'm lost... I thought you bought an 1125CR?
Either way, looks good!
Either way, looks good!
Mesozoic
Well-known member
Thanks! I was very, very skeptical about installing carbon fiber covers on my bike because I'm not very hot on the look, but it does actually look very nice. I do also have an 1125CR - that bike is new to me as of this year. I am dual Buellin...
Silverrider
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Looks good, and it's a good way to cover up any tank boo boos, if the pucks don't. :up:
If you're not sold on the look, you could paint them to match the frame. Stealthy!
I like using the headlight pivot bolts to mount turn signals. Sort of how the Monster does it.
These are single row LED from eBay.
sMXeAZ7mTw6w8BxZYxfVYg by Cooter!, on Flickr
I like using the headlight pivot bolts to mount turn signals. Sort of how the Monster does it.
These are single row LED from eBay.
sMXeAZ7mTw6w8BxZYxfVYg by Cooter!, on Flickr
Mesozoic
Well-known member
I've decided that I do like the look, but I'm afraid I may have gone a bit overboard with the carbon. My flyscreen is carbon, my oil cooler ductwork is carbon, my frame covers are carbon, and my license plate frame is faux carbon. A bit too much carbon, unfortunately. I really only replaced the bits I damaged in the crash with carbon, though. Nothing more, nothing less.
Let's see more pics of your XB... it looks rather customized, also with some carbon!
Attached are a few shots of the SpeedOfColor.de 8-row oil cooler carbon duct. It fits fine and the finish is good, but the duct length compared to the stock piece is considerably shorter. I don't think this will have a serious effect on cooling performance, but it remains to be seen during the summer months. To minimize conductivity between the carbon duct and the oil cooler, I installed thin strips of foam around all contact points, used fiberglass washers on the inside of the duct where the mounting bolts go through to the cooler, and replaced the stock black metal washers with nylon washers.
Let's see more pics of your XB... it looks rather customized, also with some carbon!
Attached are a few shots of the SpeedOfColor.de 8-row oil cooler carbon duct. It fits fine and the finish is good, but the duct length compared to the stock piece is considerably shorter. I don't think this will have a serious effect on cooling performance, but it remains to be seen during the summer months. To minimize conductivity between the carbon duct and the oil cooler, I installed thin strips of foam around all contact points, used fiberglass washers on the inside of the duct where the mounting bolts go through to the cooler, and replaced the stock black metal washers with nylon washers.
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