njdevils1990
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2010
- Messages
- 1,216
So for everyone that needs maybe a more visual description on how to do this or just wants to know. Heres my little write up on how to change your tires using my lovely xb9r.
Disclamer: I nor BuellXB.com will be responsible for any damages to property, this material is for informational purposes only.
Ok here we go!
Tools Needed:
3/8 torque wrench
3/8 ratchet
1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 allen keys
either a 22mm nut or multi size axle nut tool
22mm socket(if using 22mm nut to loosen axles)
motorcycle jack or motorcycle stands (pitbull stand)
2 curved blocks for jack (optional, helps with stability)
2 jack stands (if using only a jack)
piece of wood to brace the kick stand on while the bike is in the air (i had to redneck it and used a heavy vice...but it worked)
some shop rags for the tops of the jack stands and for clean up at the end.
Jacking your bike up
Ok there are two ways to go about getting the front and rear tires in the air.
1) If you are fortunate enough to own two pitbull bike stands, if so go ahead and use them and your done. (simple enough)
and 2) A motorcycle jack of your choice, i also put two curved rubber lifting blocks under to conform to the muffler to help with stability, two jack stands, block of wood for your kick stand and some rags for the jack stands to protect your swing arm.
I did option 2.
Step one: Place your bike in a somewhat open area where you have enough room to comfortably work and can leave it there for about an hour or two.
Step two: Get your jack and place it under your muffler even with the jack points, you'll also want to place your lift blocks under at this time and have them under each jack point.
Step three: Ideally youll need two people for this part but if you have patience and can hold your bike up level you can do it by yourself. Once you have the jack ready your gonna want to place one jack stand on each side of the swing arm (left, right) and place a rag on the head of them both to prevent scratching your swing arm. Now either your partner or yourself will hold the bike straight up and down (be careful!) and lift the jack up so the front wheel is off the ground, once it is about 2-3inches up place your jack stands under the swing arm (make sure their both level)and SLOWLY lower the bike on them. At this time youll also want to place a block of wood under your kick stand to help with balancing the bike on the jack.
Step four: Once you have your bike stable its now time to work on getting the wheels off. Youll start by lostening the two front axle pinch bolts with your 1/4 inch allen key or socket. Once you have them all the way out you can then use your 22mm nut or an axle nut tool to take out the front axle. Remember the front axle is reverse thread meaning turn clockwise to remove and counter-clockwise to tighten. As you start to get to the end of the threads start to hold up the weight of the front tire and pull the axle out.
Step five: Now that you have the front axle out you will have to remove the two caliper mounting bolts to remove the wheel completely, they are both 5/16 inch allen heads. Once you remove the mounting bolts roll the wheel towards the bike and pull the caliper off the rotor and your wheel can now be removed out the front of the bike. Remember to either mount the caliper back up or safety wire it up to keep tension off the break line. Place your front tire somewhere out of the way and get ready for the rear.
Step six: Removing the rear tire is very easy and took me less time than the front tire did, just be careful with your belt as you do not want to kink it or bind it up in any way. Start off by loosening the axle pinch bolt. Once that is loose you can take your 22mm nut or axle nut tool and loosen the rear axle (The rear axle is regular thread so clockwise will tighten and counter-clockwise will loosen) Once you have the axle about 1 1/2 inches out you can start to slide the belt off with the slack you have. Place the belt to the right and back the axle all the way out, remember once you get towards the end to carry some of the weight of the tire so it makes removal easier. Once the axle is completely out just pull the wheel straight outward toward the back of the bike making sure not to get caught up on the belt. Now you have both wheels off your bike.
Step seven: Ok now you can either take your two wheels to a shop and pay to have them changed/balanced or you can do this yourself with the proper equipment. I happen to work at a tire shop and changed my tires there. If doing it yourself make sure you change the valve cores (be very careful when removing the old ones because they could be corroded in the steam and break...then your kind of screwed) also make sure you have new valve caps to keep dirt out and help protect from corrosion. As for the actual tire change i used an automatic tire change machine and was able to change the tires out in about five minutes. As for balancing i used dyna beads, one ounce for the front tire and two ounces for the rear. Or you can use a digital balance machine or a static balance beam. When inflating your tires be careful and dont go over 40psi to seat the bead. Tire pressure im running is 38 rear and 36 front.
Step eight: Once you have your tires mounted you're gonna bring them back and put them back on your bike. The installation process is the same as taking them off just reverse and a few extra steps. Youre going to start with the rear tire. Get some anti-seize and brush some on the thread, both bearing seats and the end of the axle and then move the wheel up to the swingarm and pick it up and move it into place (be careful not to go in crooked to avoid damage to your breaks) Once you have it into place slide the axle into the hub bearing of the wheel and turn clockwise to tighten, make it snug for now.
Step nine: Move to your front tire, again this takes a little more time but its simple. Start off again by using anti-seize on the axle and make sure your front caliper is not bolted or safety wired so you can place it back on to the rotor. Move the wheel into place (make sure the fork ends are aligned in case you had to rotate one) Move your caliper into the middle of the rim and place it onto the rotor. Next you will move the wheel up to line it up with the axle and slide it in the hub of the wheel. (remember its reverse thread so counter-clockwise to tighten) Once it starts threading on get it about 3/4 of the way on and place the caliper mounting bolts in and tighten the caliper up. Once you have the caliper back on you can screw in the axle the rest of the way. Remember to put both axle pinch bolts in but dont tighten them until after you have torqued the axle.
Step ten: Once you have the front and rear axles snuged up you can lower the bike. Again this is easier with two people. Start by removing the block of wood from under the kick stand and then hold the bike upright. Next either you or your partner lift the bike up more on the jack so you can move the jack stands out of the way. Once the jack stands are out SLOWLY lower the bike to the ground and remove the jack blocks and move the jack from under the exhaust.
Step eleven: Now its time to torque the axles. Youll need your 22mm nut or your axle tool and a torque wrench with a ratcheting head. Take your torque wrench and set it to 53ft. lbs. (72 N-m) and torque the front and rear axles. Check each one at least twice and then you can tighten the axle pinch bolts in the front (1/4 inch allen) and the rear (3/8 inch allen)
Step twelve: Clean up your tools and wipe off your bike.
Breaking in the new tires
Here is a neat read on breaking in your tires
Interesting read on tire scrubbing
Thanks to Budah for his contribution
I only got in 25 miles on the new tires tonight but you should go at least 100 miles before your tires are broken in and remember to take it easy for those miles as you could end up on the ground as new tires are a bit slippery during this period.
I hope you enjoyed this as it is my first write up and im sure i may have missed something so please feel free to critisize me
its the only way to make me better. I will also update on how the tires i have on now are doing i bought the Michelin Power Pure tires and they feel ten times better then the pirellis already and the dyna beads are working very well, smooth as butter so far but only had it up to about 75-80, im sure they will do well at higher speeds as well.
Disclamer: I nor BuellXB.com will be responsible for any damages to property, this material is for informational purposes only.
Ok here we go!
Tools Needed:
3/8 torque wrench
3/8 ratchet
1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 allen keys
either a 22mm nut or multi size axle nut tool
22mm socket(if using 22mm nut to loosen axles)
motorcycle jack or motorcycle stands (pitbull stand)
2 curved blocks for jack (optional, helps with stability)
2 jack stands (if using only a jack)
piece of wood to brace the kick stand on while the bike is in the air (i had to redneck it and used a heavy vice...but it worked)
some shop rags for the tops of the jack stands and for clean up at the end.
Jacking your bike up
Ok there are two ways to go about getting the front and rear tires in the air.
1) If you are fortunate enough to own two pitbull bike stands, if so go ahead and use them and your done. (simple enough)
and 2) A motorcycle jack of your choice, i also put two curved rubber lifting blocks under to conform to the muffler to help with stability, two jack stands, block of wood for your kick stand and some rags for the jack stands to protect your swing arm.
I did option 2.
Step one: Place your bike in a somewhat open area where you have enough room to comfortably work and can leave it there for about an hour or two.
Step two: Get your jack and place it under your muffler even with the jack points, you'll also want to place your lift blocks under at this time and have them under each jack point.
Step three: Ideally youll need two people for this part but if you have patience and can hold your bike up level you can do it by yourself. Once you have the jack ready your gonna want to place one jack stand on each side of the swing arm (left, right) and place a rag on the head of them both to prevent scratching your swing arm. Now either your partner or yourself will hold the bike straight up and down (be careful!) and lift the jack up so the front wheel is off the ground, once it is about 2-3inches up place your jack stands under the swing arm (make sure their both level)and SLOWLY lower the bike on them. At this time youll also want to place a block of wood under your kick stand to help with balancing the bike on the jack.
Step four: Once you have your bike stable its now time to work on getting the wheels off. Youll start by lostening the two front axle pinch bolts with your 1/4 inch allen key or socket. Once you have them all the way out you can then use your 22mm nut or an axle nut tool to take out the front axle. Remember the front axle is reverse thread meaning turn clockwise to remove and counter-clockwise to tighten. As you start to get to the end of the threads start to hold up the weight of the front tire and pull the axle out.
Step five: Now that you have the front axle out you will have to remove the two caliper mounting bolts to remove the wheel completely, they are both 5/16 inch allen heads. Once you remove the mounting bolts roll the wheel towards the bike and pull the caliper off the rotor and your wheel can now be removed out the front of the bike. Remember to either mount the caliper back up or safety wire it up to keep tension off the break line. Place your front tire somewhere out of the way and get ready for the rear.
Step six: Removing the rear tire is very easy and took me less time than the front tire did, just be careful with your belt as you do not want to kink it or bind it up in any way. Start off by loosening the axle pinch bolt. Once that is loose you can take your 22mm nut or axle nut tool and loosen the rear axle (The rear axle is regular thread so clockwise will tighten and counter-clockwise will loosen) Once you have the axle about 1 1/2 inches out you can start to slide the belt off with the slack you have. Place the belt to the right and back the axle all the way out, remember once you get towards the end to carry some of the weight of the tire so it makes removal easier. Once the axle is completely out just pull the wheel straight outward toward the back of the bike making sure not to get caught up on the belt. Now you have both wheels off your bike.
Step seven: Ok now you can either take your two wheels to a shop and pay to have them changed/balanced or you can do this yourself with the proper equipment. I happen to work at a tire shop and changed my tires there. If doing it yourself make sure you change the valve cores (be very careful when removing the old ones because they could be corroded in the steam and break...then your kind of screwed) also make sure you have new valve caps to keep dirt out and help protect from corrosion. As for the actual tire change i used an automatic tire change machine and was able to change the tires out in about five minutes. As for balancing i used dyna beads, one ounce for the front tire and two ounces for the rear. Or you can use a digital balance machine or a static balance beam. When inflating your tires be careful and dont go over 40psi to seat the bead. Tire pressure im running is 38 rear and 36 front.
Step eight: Once you have your tires mounted you're gonna bring them back and put them back on your bike. The installation process is the same as taking them off just reverse and a few extra steps. Youre going to start with the rear tire. Get some anti-seize and brush some on the thread, both bearing seats and the end of the axle and then move the wheel up to the swingarm and pick it up and move it into place (be careful not to go in crooked to avoid damage to your breaks) Once you have it into place slide the axle into the hub bearing of the wheel and turn clockwise to tighten, make it snug for now.
Step nine: Move to your front tire, again this takes a little more time but its simple. Start off again by using anti-seize on the axle and make sure your front caliper is not bolted or safety wired so you can place it back on to the rotor. Move the wheel into place (make sure the fork ends are aligned in case you had to rotate one) Move your caliper into the middle of the rim and place it onto the rotor. Next you will move the wheel up to line it up with the axle and slide it in the hub of the wheel. (remember its reverse thread so counter-clockwise to tighten) Once it starts threading on get it about 3/4 of the way on and place the caliper mounting bolts in and tighten the caliper up. Once you have the caliper back on you can screw in the axle the rest of the way. Remember to put both axle pinch bolts in but dont tighten them until after you have torqued the axle.
Step ten: Once you have the front and rear axles snuged up you can lower the bike. Again this is easier with two people. Start by removing the block of wood from under the kick stand and then hold the bike upright. Next either you or your partner lift the bike up more on the jack so you can move the jack stands out of the way. Once the jack stands are out SLOWLY lower the bike to the ground and remove the jack blocks and move the jack from under the exhaust.
Step eleven: Now its time to torque the axles. Youll need your 22mm nut or your axle tool and a torque wrench with a ratcheting head. Take your torque wrench and set it to 53ft. lbs. (72 N-m) and torque the front and rear axles. Check each one at least twice and then you can tighten the axle pinch bolts in the front (1/4 inch allen) and the rear (3/8 inch allen)
Step twelve: Clean up your tools and wipe off your bike.
Breaking in the new tires
Here is a neat read on breaking in your tires
Interesting read on tire scrubbing
Thanks to Budah for his contribution
I only got in 25 miles on the new tires tonight but you should go at least 100 miles before your tires are broken in and remember to take it easy for those miles as you could end up on the ground as new tires are a bit slippery during this period.
I hope you enjoyed this as it is my first write up and im sure i may have missed something so please feel free to critisize me
its the only way to make me better. I will also update on how the tires i have on now are doing i bought the Michelin Power Pure tires and they feel ten times better then the pirellis already and the dyna beads are working very well, smooth as butter so far but only had it up to about 75-80, im sure they will do well at higher speeds as well.
