Hydraulic Clutch

[mmcn49]

Years ago I installed a 2" Rox Riser and a 1" Precision Machine Riser on my 07 TT Lightning. This allowed me to sit almost upright for long distance riding/cruising. To make this work I had to install the longer Uly clutch cable. The longer Uly cable is harder to pull than the shorter stock cable.

Looking to reduce clutch lever pull a bit. Does anyone know if Magura or other manufacturer make a hydrualic clutch lever for 03-10 Buell's?

 

[mmcn49]

Anyone know anything about thbis hydraulic clutch system?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAGURA-HYD...736752&hash=item56ca1fa403:g:tHEAAOSwEeFVBy-u

 

[osvaldo]

Hi mm,

it seems this guy: https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?11318-Clutch-solution&highlight=magura is quite happy.
To me it seems that 40% gain could be a little optimistic, but for sure some gain must be there.
I read some of your previous posts:
Do not stop to ride just for your left wrist, as far the right one is working well!
Just joking, but just in case I will hate a scooter like clutch.
Much better I would ask somebody to build for me a system with an electric actuator (solenoid) proportionately governed by a rheostat on the clutch lever.
I don't know if something like that has already been done for Buell's Bike, but for sure it can be done.
Just need to see if such a strong solenoid 12 Volt can be found within reasonable dimension and weight, otherwise it will be needed to add some leverage,
but still if needed it can be done.

 

[Cooter]

Hey mmcn49! Been awhile, how's the hand?

Actual (luggage scale) testing of the Magura found the clutch pull to be the same, and that makes sense considering the power needed to actuate the clutch is the same whether mechanical or hydraulic unless you change the ratio (length of pull) and they don't You would lose the actual cable drag #'s but a new cable should be super easy. No magic there, power is power.

Pingel makes an electric shifter that slams the trans between gears. http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/electric-speed-shifters.asp. But honestly, you can do clutchless shifting yourself between gears up and down by practicing your throttle application*.

Adding a quick shifter is cheap and easy and will take care of upshifts:https://www.buelltooth.com/quickshifters.html. I LOVE mine.

But none of those address your real problem of holding the clutch lever in for a long time, like at a stop light. This does.

http://efmautoclutch.com/street

It combines centrifugal release and normal clutch. Really not a bad custom piece for $695+exchange.

*Motorcycle "constant mesh" transmissions were designed for clutchless shifting without damage.
For upshifts, release a little throttle pressure (still slightly accelerating) while putting up pressure on the gear shift.
For down shifts while decelerating, add a slight amount of throttle while putting downward pressure on the gearshift.

Get it right and it's as smooth as using the lever, especially in the upper gears. Start practicing going between 4-5, then 3-4-5, then 2-3-4-5. The lower the gear, the bigger the ratio change so while learning, make sure you are going straight and your speed is proper for the gear you're choosing, not just banging gears to practice

IMO

 

[mmcn49]

Hey mmcn49! Been awhile, how's the hand?

Hi Cooter – Thanks for responding and asking. What a wealth of information.

Had two wrist/hand surgeries and two months of hand therapy since March. Stitches from the second surgery were removed last Thursday and things are looking up! Finally, no pain and a stronger hand!! Hopefully continuing hand exercises will keep it going for a long time to come. The hand is still swollen a bit from the surgery and the incision is still healing but I'm on the mend.

Actual (luggage scale) testing of the Magura found the clutch pull to be the same, and that makes sense considering the power needed to actuate the clutch is the same whether mechanical or hydraulic unless you change the ratio (length of pull) and they don't You would lose the actual cable drag #'s but a new cable should be super easy. No magic there, power is power.

Didn't know if the rod end of the salve cylinder had enough surface area to give it a mechanical advantage over the cable, (longer clutch lever travel for an easier pull). Guess not.

Pingel makes an electric shifter that slams the trans between gears. http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/electric-speed-shifters.asp.

And they cost over a grand.

Adding a quick shifter is cheap and easy and will take care of upshifts:https://www.buelltooth.com/quickshifters.html. I LOVE mine.

Watched several you tube videos on quickshifters. Had no idea BuellTooth made anything like that. This is going to help a lot and will have “She Who Controls the Purse Strings” order both pieces as soon as I finish typing. This will cut clutch pulls by 40% or more.

My problem is pulling the clutch and to a lesser extent holding it in. I've been practicing pulling the lever at the very lower parts of my fingers. I've adjusted the cable so there's quite a bit of slack in the lever, but leaving enough pull to disengage the clutch. This seems to be working.

I know about clutchless shifting. Did it on the Enduro bikes racing through the woods decades ago but not so much on the Buell's. That will probably change on downshifts when the BuellTooth is installed.

In closing want to say I learned a lot about RA/Osteo Hands and Fingers over the past few months. One group of exercises called “Tendon Glides” are simple but unbelievably effective. They are not strengthening exercises but the fingers are stronger and they work a whole lot better. If anyone is interested PM me and I'll send the exercise information.

Thanks for the information Cooter, I really appreciate it.

 

[Cooter]

Glad to help keep you on 2 wheels:angel:

If you haven't bought the quick shifter yet, PM me

 

[34nineteen]

This is an expensive proposal, but it may be up your alley...

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mpo/d/avinger-rev-loc-auto-clutch-buell/7054711349.html

 

[Cooter]

Wow, they are proud of that! Good find 34:19 but I'd still go for the EFM Auto Clutch for $700, even if I had to buy a new clutch hub to send them it saves almost $2k!

On a side note, it's good to see more aftermarket Mfg's making these. I think it opens up the barrier for a lot of older riders, ones with grip issues, but especially for new riders that typically haven't even seen a manual transmission before!:upset:

It would be better if the OE's would offer something like this. The Honda DCT is a good start but still a little too involved. Something simple like this is a cheap and easy way to have a real motorcycle (not a "beginner bike") and get someone used to riding stop and go, while still having a proven/simple/cheap, normal motorcycle transmission.

What did you end up doing mmcn49?

 

[outthere]

My post wasn't the answer the OP was looking for so it got deleted.

 

[yellowcarbon]

There are the clutch pull kits from Mueller, Free Spirits, & Clutchlite. They give you a little better leverage to lower the clutch pull. I added a Free Spirits one and it made a noticeable difference. I lightened the clutch pull by 15-25% and made my XB much more pleasant to ride in stop & go traffic.

I draw on the computer for a living, so my hands & wrist can bother me at the end of a long week. The lower clutch pull made my commute much more pleasant in stop & go traffic. I am also hesitant to put my bike in neutral at traffic lights as I want the ability to get out of the way as needed. I once avoided getting smashed by pulling out of the way of somebody that would have rear ended me at 40-50 mph when they ran a red light from behind and I saw them coming.

 

[njloco]

Depending on one's age, Vegetal-silica !