Ignition switch question

[ksquare]

My ignition switch has started to act up. It has become very sensitive to the position it is rotated to. The normal detent position no longer works properly. I have to finagle it a bit to find a sweet spot where it works. Depending on where the key is positioned, either nothing works, the instrument cluster & lights work but no fuel pump or start or pump works & starts but no instruments or everything works. The everything works position is a bit challenging to find. I'm concerned that I'll loose power while riding. Common problem? Unobtainable replacement part? Can it be rebuilt?

 

[Rays]

The XB ignition switch contacts can get grotty and because the ignition switch is essentially two seperate switches ganged together you can get this odd behaviour with intermittent contact on the multiple fixed contacts internally.
The electrical part of the switch was available as a spare but I don't know if there are any still available - for the XB12X it was C0152.1AD but I think there was a different part number for the XB12R. I don't know what was applicable for the 9R.
I pulled the switch out of my XB12X when it started misbehaving and it wasn't too difficult if you are comfortable with fiddly mechanisms.

On the XB12X the body of the ignition switch is held in with a couple of T45 security Torx screws and are easy to get out assuming you have the T45 tool. The body of the mechanical part has recesses for the Torx screws so without the right tool you would need to be really brutal to get them out.
The electrical part of the ignition switch is attached to the mechanical body with a couple of screws and the electrical part clips together with a couple of small plastic tangs that click into cut-outs on the outer section - see the two circled bits in the photo below. I used a couple of small instrument screwdrivers pushed in above each tang to allow them to come out - be careful here the outer plastic body is pretty thin.



Remove the electrical part and make sure you have it sitting flat to remove the fixed contact plate (the white bit with the wires soldered on).
That will give you access to the movable contacts and the business side of the fixed contacts - see the next photo below. If you look carefully at this photo you can see the green gunk around the top left movable contact.



Carefully clean all the contacts (from memory I used Methylated spirits on a cotton bud) and use a touch of silicon grease and reassemble.
The movable contacts are just sitting in place on the lower piece (it was years ago so my memory is rusty) but there are probably small springs below those contacts so be careful to keep this flat while working on it.
I ran that 12X for many years after that repair and the ignition switch remained solid so well worth the bit of effort in my opinion.
Ray

 

[Cooter]

Excellent description and repairs! Thanks Rays.

Allow me to add that the T45 security torx can be bypassed with the right size flat blade bit in a ratchet, if you have the break-off ones with nothing in the head at all, a small chisel and hammer will rotate them, they aren't on that tight.

 

[ksquare]

Thanks Rays et al. Your info is much appreciated!

 

[Cooter]

Agreed. I'm a jerk.

Oh, and communicating clearly is helpful too, whatever.

 

[ksquare]

I finally got off my tuchas and fixed the switch. Rays was correct. Not a big deal to fix. Here is a before pic. Yuk...