I can't for the life of me get these intake seals to actually seal. At this point I've come to the conclusion the flanges are warped. Trust me I've tried everything. Grease, silicone, I've been installing them the correct way each time, quarter turn on each bolt in an even manner. I've ordered the oberon intake flanges with the dual o rings. To me this is a far better design. I will let everyone know how these end up turning out. I bought an additional set of o rings with them.. it was 126 usd shipped to me. Says 9 days shipping time. 126 bucks is worth it because I've dropped the motor 3 different times an each is the same. My time is worth the 126 dollars. The lost riding time is worth the . dollars. My sanity is worth the 126 dollars. I think you get my point. Like I say I'll let everyone know if these are worth your time and money
Intake sealing, the final solution
- Thread starter XB12Steve
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Please do. H-D intake seals are notoriously finicky and Oberon makes some really nice stuff. 100% correct that the cost is well worth your time.
Barrett
Well-known member
I told you 3 months ago when you commenced with "what seals should I use" and "what sealant should I use" and "I know that already"...that either the entire intake assembly and/or the mounting flanges were the source of your habitual problem. Seen this identical scenario several times during the XB model run, as previously mentioned to you.
kz6fittycent
Well-known member
kz6fittycent
Well-known member
I think you're on the right track with the Oberon setup. If mine ever gives way, I'll be looking into that setup, too. As far as round stuff warping, it happens. I've seen it happen on other setups. I'm not taking sides in this online argument, just trying to get the train back on the tracks. I was messing with Barrett, above. I mess with everyone, so your turn will come.
kz6fittycent
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Tea bag ?
casual_observer
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Did you use the James blue gaskets with the lip? Did you use Hylomar sealant? Is the manifold really centered between the two flanges when you tighten down the flanges?
Have you checked the OD of the intake runner interface for roundness? All it takes is to be a little off to allow air to leak past the seals. On Sportsters, intake manifolds do wear out at the runners and the intake port where the TB/carb fits. I've bought more than my fair share of Sportsters over the years, where the impossible to solve intake leak was solved by a new intake manifold. Go ahead and try the Oberon flanges and let us know how it works, but if you still have an intake leak, its manifold time.
Also, make sure the leak isnt coming from the CA emission port on the injector side of the TB. When checking for intake leaks, most people spray from the left side since its easier to get to than the right side, and the vapor can get sucked in through that port as its usually open, especially since you are (usually) spraying in the general direction of the port.
Some greases have chemicals that can cause the seals to warp, make sure to use a silicone based grease. I used to use some old synthetic extreme pressure CV grease and the seals would fail every time right away.
I know this is obvious, but the flanges are labeled "F" and "R". Are you getting the orientation correct?
Did you remember to connect the manifold to the coil bracket? T-20 or T25 torx (not T27 in this case).
Have you checked the OD of the intake runner interface for roundness? All it takes is to be a little off to allow air to leak past the seals. On Sportsters, intake manifolds do wear out at the runners and the intake port where the TB/carb fits. I've bought more than my fair share of Sportsters over the years, where the impossible to solve intake leak was solved by a new intake manifold. Go ahead and try the Oberon flanges and let us know how it works, but if you still have an intake leak, its manifold time.
Also, make sure the leak isnt coming from the CA emission port on the injector side of the TB. When checking for intake leaks, most people spray from the left side since its easier to get to than the right side, and the vapor can get sucked in through that port as its usually open, especially since you are (usually) spraying in the general direction of the port.
Some greases have chemicals that can cause the seals to warp, make sure to use a silicone based grease. I used to use some old synthetic extreme pressure CV grease and the seals would fail every time right away.
I know this is obvious, but the flanges are labeled "F" and "R". Are you getting the orientation correct?
Did you remember to connect the manifold to the coil bracket? T-20 or T25 torx (not T27 in this case).
Used the james with hylomar. Installed coil bracket bolt, not snug but just to hold the alignment then made sure seals were centered an snugged bolts a lil at a time evenly. Flanges are correct front an rear. I didn't mic the manifold
Flanges solved my problem. I did have to take a 80 grit sand wheel, not a drum, on my dremel to the bores in order for the flanges to fit the manifold. Once I did that a few times they slid on nicely an I could clock them. Overall these aren't easy to install. Several times the o ring popped out of the groove as soon as it touched the head. They were lightly oiled. But patience and perseverance an it runs smoother than ever. So I guess there's no easy way on these but these should last for quite a while hopefully
Thank you for the detailed report:eagerness:
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