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Interesting weekend

Buellxb Forum

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wally

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2011
Messages
632
Location
Bellville, South Africa
On my way to a men's camp on Friday evening I heard the familiar exhaust rattle which normally happens when that stupid front mounting bolt shears off...

The rattling lasts till about 3000 RPM and then quiets down. This however lasted the whole rev range.

Pulled over and saw the new front strap had snapped!!! Exactly where the old one did! [mad]
86689A02-DEBB-44A2-BE8B-848692EFE006_zpsjnsmgny4.jpg


Torqued and installed correctly. I mean, seriously!!! Got some wire and temp fixed it:
908D3B52-5528-45C7-B0CB-EB758A98EBA7_zpslftoau2j.jpg


At the venue (on a farm) the owner turns out to be an engineer.

Pulled into his garage, pulled off exhaust, welded the strap with his fancy schmancy welder with stainless rod.
Made a little spacer to compensate for the loosness/play in the mount's bushings.

Then we saw this on the bottom of the header:
12969875-3F68-4E66-BF60-17DA37EFFF7B_zps6xcocrvy.jpg


Completely worn out from heat - anyone else seen/experience this?

I think this is the reason why the torca clamp doesn't seal properly, which in turn places stress on the front muffler strap and mount?

Also saw my exhaust servo cable is badly frayed and might snap soon.

Now, on the 08 Uly, what are my options?
1. get new cable (easy to install?)
2. Can I unhook on the exhaust and bypass with Tunerpro RT as with ECMSpy?
3. Emulator?

If I get this all sorted then she is A-OK again! [up]
 
mmmm, thanx!

Going to ask the guys that fixed my 02 sensor mount if he can cut that out and weld a new ring in there.

I really need to get this front mount issue sorted!
I have tried everything!

On the plus side, got my reflector strip for top case from local Hepco Becker supplier and fitted it this afternoon.
Looks like new!

New one fitted:
780F3CB1-8FF8-4B18-8408-8E3077698404_zps3ugoiika.jpg


Old broken one:
9B24E491-4D99-472B-B80C-CF35215439B8_zpsvvtbpadv.jpg
 
Just from looking at the header, I'd say you have a bad vibration problem. Have you swapped out the isolators for new ones? It's a pita just to change those out, so if you have other stuff to do while the frame is off, that would be the time to do it.
 
Nope and I probably won't get to it this year. It is my daily driver, so I need it every day.

Plan is to drop motor next year, chic and replace gaskets, etc.

This year will be shocks and bearings.
 
What would all be needed for the replacement?

I will have to check that my HD dealer has supplies in stock, otherwise I have to import.

Is there a write-up somewhere perhaps on how to replace the isolators?

Thanx!
 
I'm sure there is, the front isolator is about $70 I think. I got the threaded insert while I was at it. Don't remember the cost of the rear but it wasn't astronomical or anything. I built a small frame to support the engine while it was apart that bolted to the front and rear of the cases. It can be done with a regular motorcycle jack and rear wheel stand though, it just needs to be relatively stable. Having a 2nd body to help lift the frame off helps, I left the front end intact on mine so it was a little heavier that way.

13+-+1
 
Do you have a ECM cable to hook up to the bike? I can walk you through how to turn off the muffler valve with tuning.
 
To give some closure to this thread. He had a cable and I walked him through how to turn off the valve and error checking for the valve. You can pull the wiring, cable, and servo as it is no longer being used.
Take care,
Brett
 
Yip, indeed! Thanx Bret!

For the time and patience!

Bike is getting serviced next weekend, so then I'll do the valve disabling and cable removal.
Thanx for everybody's help on the forum! [up]
 
I noticed recently on my d&d which i only had running for about 15 mins that there's a little black soon on my header pipe which would suggest its leaking a tiny bit. The clamp is tight to. Do you guys use a sealer ever? When I used to race quads I ran Monster True Duals. We would use red silicone at the joints where the exhaust slid over one another. Was curious if that would work on the buell's? Its properly seated in depth and bolted up as well right.
 
You can put high temp silicone in there. I've seen it on factory pipes and occasionally on aftermarket. EBR tuned the RT-3 with the leaks. It's a very small amount, so it doesn't affect performance any.
 
looks like a metal fatigue break to me, but you have to understand ONCE you have a leak that starts,, it leaks air IN as well as exhaust OUT, when fresh air is sucked INTO a exhaust system it cooks the living crap out of the metal..

Fresh O2, (oxygen) natures best flammable accelerant, Ever use a Oxy/Acetylene torch? Same deal, the Acetylene burns rich with thick oily smoke and a dull yellow flame, how do you get it hot? Simple, add Oxygen in small amounts, the flame burns over a 1000 deg F hotter and forms a light clear blue flame that can melt steel like butter, How to cut metal? simple,, Add MORE Oxygen with the trigger on the side of the cutting torch, now metal melts like soft margarine on a hot Texas Afternoon.

So exhaust leaks will do that, which is why you gotta keep up on your system, same thing for your valves if you get a leaky exhaust gasket.

So, and finally, My rant about header and pipe wraps, thats what your bikes exhaust will look like under that wrap if you use it, lots of vibration and sustained high amounts of heat will cook the hell out of Mild Steel,, will not happen with a ceramic metal coating on your exhaust, the heat never reaches the metal. Or Buy high end Stainless or Titanium which is whats used in Aircraft jet exhausts. Inconel, 17-4 or other materials but you would have a $5,000 exhaust system then, so make do with what you got.
 
Yea on my 700 raptor i had pop on decel and it was due to a few small leaks after I sealed them up it went away. Thanks
 
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