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Is your OIL bad for Buells?

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Theycallmecrash

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Messages
2,408
Ok gonna keep this fairly short and maybe as needed ill find more supporting articles to show you non-believers.

Most of us have a favorite oil, but no actual proof other than, the bike still runs to support what the best oil is. Some claim to be techs, been inside engines and say the engine was in top shape, obviously not cause youre inside it. So how do we know whats good for our engines? The transmission can run same oil? What viscosity? What color? Who puts olive oil in their oil? If i sacrifice a chicken everyday will my bike lubricate better? Pointless talk all day Er'day, YOLO.
I have been running Mobil 1 full syn 20w50 V-twin engine and formula+ in trans. The mobil 1 wont ever be in my engine again. Or valvoline, lucas, gear oil, syn 3, or most of the oil for that matter. Ill be permently switching to AMSOIL all holes. Heres why, Internet annoyance kinda touched on this one recently when talking about zinc being a lubricant from back in the day. Good stuff. Let me ask, how do you feel about ACID in your engine? Corrosion? Break down of expensive parts? No one likes that. Our engine (correct me if im wrong) have Brass components in them. Brass is zinc and copper alloy. Shift forks, gears, bushings. Im no chemist but these metals as an atom have 2 electrons chillin ready to give up. Most oils from what i could research these days have about a 2% content of "Diethyl dithiophosphoric acid" im no chemist but i remember that Acids take eletrons from a base and neutralize out. That is called Corrosion. That acid is a weaker version of sulfuric acid balanced out semi by phosphorus. Back in the day that acid was combined with zinc using alcohols to produces "Zinc-dithiophosphoric acid" a super duper awesome lubricant used in most older engine oils. Well now its zinc less and its hungry. The only oil ive been able to find out there without this crap is AMSOIL. Most engines dont use Brass in their stuff these days but we do. So i really dont feel comfortable running acid in my transmission more than anything.

Im not a chemist and i could be worried about nothing. But that stuff is what is labeled as hazardus in most oil MSDS sheets. If a chemist has some input thatd be awesome.
 
i chose amsoil because my bike runs cooler and quieter than it did on mobil1.there are also members with very high miles on their bikes running mobil1 as well as amsoil.
 
I can see it being less of an issue for those constantly putting miles on the bike. But those who let the bike sit for months at a time allow for the acid to do it work. Leads me to believe that leads to premature shift fork failure, cam bushings wearing out. The engine is the least of my worries. Its those damn shift forks. Ive read a lot about those things tanking. Last thing i wanna do is make them brittle cause of my oil choice.
 
But those who let the bike sit for months at a time allow for the acid to do it work.
[up]
imo if you let any vechicle set through the winter months or any long periods change the oil before and after
 
amsoil all the way, i run it in everything, got about 80k on my buell b4 it started knockin. i just posed a few pics of my motor/ the shift forks are still good as well just minor wear, btw i never use the clutch just out of first . and i beat the piss out of my bike. friend of mine only used harley oil and he got about 35k till his motor started knockin,
 
i just learned some new info about running synthetic oil in the primary.
i was at dragos the other day droppin my crank off , and he told me they dyno tested synthetic and non synthetic in the primary,
and what they noticed was the clutch would actually slip with synthetic oil, mind you this is not noticeable but only on the dyno and high horse applications. but it doesnt slip with non synthetic oil.
 
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