Issues with shifting, second gear

[spymac]

First off I'm going admit I haven't done any research on this at all and am taking the lazy way out by asking you all! I have a day off from work today but a broken dryer that needs attention first and foremost then come back to the bike later in the day if I have time (I know, priorities are backwards). Have an 03 XB9s with a second gear grind. Getting into any other gear is pretty easy with no noise, it's just second gear. Not sure if this is related but when I pull the clutch lever it is not smooth but gritty, almost like there are 6 distinct positions from full in to full out. It's difficult to pull as well compared to my last bike. I've adjusted the clutch per the factory manual but it didn't help. Another thing, when in 1st gear with the clutch pulled I cannot move the bike, the rear tire won't move, is this normal?

I know it's just a dump of symptoms but I'm hoping to get some direction on things I can check or troubleshooting steps I can perform to help narrow down the issue. Thank you all and happy new year!

 

[user_deleted]

do the basics below. if nothing broken internally or clutch pack components worn out....this fixes shifting problems 90% of the time. the procedure though fairly simple MUST be very concise and accurately done. if you can't do it get a local sportster expert to do the job. it is one and the same. also your bike is FIFTEEN YEARS OLD. you mentioned NOTHING regarding mileage, abuses in the past, clutch history, nothing! service manual covers it all but here it is simply put:
1-drain primary fluid for at least 1 hour...refill with 1 quart ONLY of Amsoil 20-50 cycle oil OR mobil-1 20-50 cycle oil. i prefer amsoil.
2-remove derby cover and chain inspection cover---both on primary cover. loosen clutch pack screw 1 full turn then loosen clutch cable adjustment barrel and jam nut. loosen barrel approx 3 turns.
3-remove clutch cable from lever and perch. completely clean and lube cable. if worn/frayed at lever/perch area replace cable.
4-lube lever pivot points on perch.
5-reassemble cable and NOW adjust both the cable and clutch pack screw. manual covers it and simple procedure.
6-replace derby cover.
7-adjust primary chain at room temp after all above steps have been performed. NOT building space-ships here. simple 1/2 inch cold chain freeplay up and down sufficient. replace adjustment cover.
now test!

 

[Cooter]

Absolutely do what Lunatic said first. I sounds like the cable is super old and dry. It also sounds like the 2nd gear dogs are worn out (those commonly go first), so if you do everything on Lunatics list and it still grinds going into 2nd gear only, you'll need to replace that gear and its mate (or just do the whole trans). That sucks because its a whole engine tear down and case split.

 

[spymac]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll check those things out and report back.

What lube should I use for the clutch cable?

 

[Cooter]

Specific cable lube is always best, but soak it in WD-40 works well too.

 

[user_deleted]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I'll check those things out and report back.

What lube should I use for the clutch cable?

what shaughn said OR let lever end of cable stick up in air. slowly dribble 3-in-1 oil down the cable. drip it onto the inner cable and let it run down via gravity. takes 15 minutes or so and is tedious but still to this day 3-in-1 works beautifully on clutch cables.

 

[Cooter]

Yes! Do the 3-in-1 trick instead of the WD-40. Mo betta':eagerness: It should be very smooth after you are done. If it's still stiff, you'll need to buy a new cable.

 

[TPEHAK]

Regarding the stepping clutch lever feeling and difficult to pull - cable is fine, ball ramp assembly is worn.

Regarding grind second gear - ramp assembly is worn and does not travel all way out so clutch plates partially engaged and there is some drag so gears teeth passing some steps before engaging making grind sound. If clutch plates are warpaged it can cause drag too.

 

[spymac]

Awesome, thanks guys I'll give it a shot this weekend.

 

[Outlaw]

3 in 1 oil is great. Love that stuff. Been around forever.

 

[submax]

I use this stuff. The included tool was actually very helpful on the clutch cable, though not so much with the throttle cable. I picked it up at my local HD dealer, but lots of online options as well.

http://cycleplicity.com/products/245609-protect_all_20006_12_cs__cable_care_kit.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=245609NOFITMENT&utm_campaign=GSNOFITMENT&adtype=pla&kw=&utm_term=&adpos=1o2&network=g&gclid=Cj0KCQiAvrfSBRC2ARIsAFumcm89QSWVgoHO5HoGU9mBq4Xxeo-4-tz-r_qPJ3Q3VMeKOYZKhs1vdNcaAhoQEALw_wcB

 

[spymac]

Well I have some news to report. Picked up some amsoil and cable lube and followed the procedure (thanks lunatic). Clutch feel is much improved now, something must have been out of adjustment. It's still feels like its stepping a bit but not nearly as much as before. Cable felt smooth when removed from clutch lever so maybe the ball ramp is worn?? I think TPEHAK should engineer a replacement ball ramp that will NEVER fail, would love to see a how-to I kid! Used that cable lube that submax suggested, cool product, but I made a mess so next time I may just use the ol dribble method. Primary chain had at least an inch of play so adjusted that down. Anyhow, bike rides much better now. Second gear still grinds a little but not as bad. If I keep the revs down I can engage smoothly where as before I would always grind no matter what. So I guess I'll just have to be easy on it until I decide to tear the engine out and maybe work on the trans. Thanks all for the help!

 

[submax]

Glad it seems to be working better. Keep us posted and enjoy the ride! :up:

 

[user_deleted]

I think TPEHAK should engineer a replacement ball ramp that will NEVER fail, would love to see a how-to

that would be real stretch considering he doesnt' even know the correct name of the part. it is the "clutch actuator assembly" and trust me.....yours is NOT worn out and in need of replacement. an inspection would reveal there's no wear on it whatsoever. since you've noticed a huge improvement following my recommendations put 50 miles or so on the bike then do the clutch pack/clutch cable/primary chain adjustment one more time. that should wrap it up. i'll also note here that every single motorcycle ever produced that places neutral between 1st and 2nd gears has a tendency to "clunk" on the 1-2 shift point especially when the lube is cold. EVERY XB model using a dedicated primary lube such as amsoil 20wt-50...a correctly adjusted clutch pack and clutch cable...and correctly adjusted primary drive.....will give a "light clunk" on the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts then jap-smooth on 3-4 and 4-5. sportsters have shifted this identical way for 61 years now and so do XB's.