Knocking and oil light after swapping starter

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Smashman

Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
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6
I just rebuilt the starter and got it back in last night. First start was accompanied almost instantly by a knocking in the bottom end. The oil light went out for a few seconds then on and stayed on. The filter is full of oil (and was never removed) and there is plenty of oil in the tank. Only the vent and oil lines were disconnected.

I saw one reference to purging the oil lines in case air is in them but no procedure - how is this done? Other suggestions?

Thanks!
 
to answer your question regarding full oil pressure and circulation it is a bit tedious but try this and be sure you're working in room temp environment. if not use 15-40 wt. oil for this purpose:
remove swingarm oil dipstick.
check and be sure system has 2.5 quarts of oil in same
remove spark plugs. rear can be removed by getting down to the air box base plate and removing same. this gives access to rear plug which is removed with 3/8th drive ratchet...extension...swivel...and 5/8th captive plug socket
attach charger to battery if necessary to gain full voltage
engine will now spin freely and quickly. with key on and run switch set to on spin the motor with the starter. obviously it will not start as plugs removed in above step. spin till oil pressure light is extinguished. spin for additional 10 seconds or so and the system should be fine and air removed from cooler and lines.
if not i would proceed with removing filter assembly and pump and look in cam cover cavity to assure pump driven gear and driver gear in good shape.
 
Thanks! I just pulled the plugs and ran the starter until the battery started to wear down (little over a minute?) - oil light stayed on steady, no joy.

Considering it was working as expected prior to replacing the starter are other issues, such as the gears, likely or should I keep on turning it over like this?
 
After a few conversations with Buellers and studying how the oiling system works it dawned on me, the oil tank may be holding a vacuum. Unscrewed the filler and it primed after the third 15 second try.

The bike runs great now. Thanks for your help Lunaticfringe!
 
my pleasure and thanks for the acknowledgment. when i mentioned "remove oil filler dipstick cap" i should have additionally mentioned "and keep it off during this process" but figured you'd get that from the procedure. glad you resolved it. it is pretty rare but every now and then during an XB oil change you have to crank and fire the bike following an oil change with the cap off to "burp" the system. glad you're back on the road.
 
Had to do the same thing when I pulled my engine to rebuild the top end and do cams. I wasn't getting oil pressure...pulled the oil cap, it pushed out the air. Spun the engine with out the cap on and boom, got oil pressure right away. Ended up having to drain some oil out when it pushed all the oil that sat in the crank case back into the oil tank.
 
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