LSL Headlight, Motoscope Mini, M-Lock

[TPEHAK]

Finally I've got all stuff for LSL Urban Headlight modification. I have LSL Headlight, Motogadget Motoscope Mini with Harley Davidson bar clamp with LEDs, Motogadget M-Lock and a bunch of wires, waterproof plugs, etc.

It looks like I need to uninstall the front wheel and the fork to install LSL Headlight brackets.

I'm still thinking how to install the front turn signals. Any tips and tricks are welcome.

 

[Cooter]

Gonna look good[up]
Yup, you have to pull the front wheel and slide the forks down a bit. May I recommend a good time for a oil and seal change? You will be 90% there…

I'd put short strip of orange LED's on the sides of the headlight bezel. You can get them on e-bay, but get the "high count" ones for more LED's/inch.

Where did you get the handle bar clamp? I need one just like it for a project.

 

[oh9bolt]

[up]

Your gas cap is upside down

 

[08herobolt]

[up]

I love this place. Always helping with gas caps. Lol.

 

[pvmike]

Nice project! I've always liked the LSL headlight conversion.

 

[oh9bolt]

Someone has to monitor it 08herobolt

 

[TPEHAK]

OK, here is what I've done for today.

A little bit of the process:

Remove the front fender

Install the rear and the front stands

Lock the front brake lever

Mark the fork tube for future alignment

Unscrew the front wheel

Unscrew the front caliper

Unscrew the fork tube brackets

Slide the tubes down and remove the upper rings

Install the LSL Headlight brackets and install the fork tubes, the brake caliper and the wheel back

Disconnect "-" of the battery

Remove the windshield and say goodbye the Buell face

Remove all useless parts and the lock. So after the motorcycle will not have the mechanical lock anymore.

And here is the first try

Rider view

I bought the Dorman High Temp headlight socket (9003) to connect the main bulb of the LSL Headlight. The upper small bulb in the headlight has a strange socket, so I am going to cut this socket off and connect the upper bulb with different connector.

At the end of the day I've got the problem. The problem is that the headlight socket interferes with the wire fasteners under the windshield.

Any suggestions? Maybe grind down those fasteners and mount the main bunch of wires somehow with different manner?

 

[TPEHAK]

I have an idea, I can mount the horn on the mirror fastener

 

[Robertsson]

I'm glad you that you wrote about the problem with the frame. I'm installing the same light! I'm looking at a different bracket than the OEM one but the problem is that the light will be mounted a little higher up... I'm also installing the m-lock but also a motoscope pro, m-unit and m-switches! I'm going to be following your process closely

 

[brock]

Looking good , I put that light on another Buell I had. I love that light. [up]

 

[TPEHAK]

Thanks.

Here is the progress for today:

Here is the process:

I am going to use the high beam flasher button as button for the Motoscope Mini. High beam button is useless, so it should be OK.

First of all unscrew the left hand buttons housing

Here is the Blue/Yellow wire and the White/Red wire we need

Unscrew the wires clamp in the housing

Cut the zip tie

Cut the harness tube, but leave a small section of the tube, we will need it

Here is the Blue/Yellow wire and the White/Red wire we are going to cut off

Solder the new extensions to the the Blue/Yellow wire and to the White/Red wire. I used the black wire and the green wire, these wires will be connected with the same color wires of the Motoscope. Use Heat-shrink tubing to isolate the soldered places.

Install the wire harness back in the housing using the new small zip tie and the tube section we left

Install the left hand buttons housing back

I used split loom to cover the wires. But I think I will cover the wires with black sleeving.

The next step is the new headlight wiring. Cut off the Buell headlight plug and solder it to the LSL Headlight

Use the 9003 bulb wiring diagram and the Buell wiring diagram to correctly solder the wires with the plug

It works!

Mark handlebar alignment and remove the handlebar clamp

Assemble the Motoscope Mini and the Motogadjet Harley Davidson handlebar clamp. Cover the wires with black sleeve. I used the Black Sleeving Kit . Install the new handlebar clamp.

The next thing I have to do is to eliminate as many plugs under the headlight as possible. Here is the way to eliminate the key switch plug. Cut off the key switch plug and solder all key switch wires together. Then raise up the fuse box to get the key switch wire

The wire we need is in the very left bottom corner

Split this wire

Solder the extensions to the wire, apply heat shrinkable tubes and assemble the fuse box back. I will use these wires to connect them with the M-Lock relay.

 

[TPEHAK]

Tonight I've re-wrapped all hand control wires with the Black Sleeving Kit.

Looks way better than split loom, takes less place and helps to achieve custom look.

I cut off the plugs, wrapped the wires with the sleeving, and soldered the plugs back

 

[thrstrmech]

looks great, but why not remove the wires from the connectors and then fish it through the sleeve? you could have bought new pins and connector from the original headlight to add to the new one and kept the original intact. connector and pins would have cost about 5-6 bucks. either way, nice write up and pics.

 

[oh9bolt]

^[up]

 

[TPEHAK]

looks great, but why not remove the wires from the connectors and then fish it through the sleeve? you could have bought  new pins and connector from the original headlight to add to the new one and kept the original intact. connector and pins would have cost about 5-6 bucks. either way, nice write up and pics.

I don't have a tool to remove the pins and I'm not familiar with the connectors, so it is easier for me just split the wires.

 

[Robertsson]

I really like to see the progress you're making! I tune in everyday to see if you've written more than yesterday! Thank you for giving me ideas!

[up]

 

[thrstrmech]

pin removal from the connector is done with either a small nail or jewelers flat blade screw driver to release the locking tab of the pin and slide it out. if you did the dual headlight mod previously, it's the same process of removal for both male and female pins.
those connectors have locking tabs on the sides, release them and pull back the center part from where the wires are pinched to the other side of the connector, this allows for the wire and pin to be removed from the connector after the locking tab is released by the nail or screw driver.

 

[TPEHAK]

Tonight I've prepared the fuses for the Motoscope and for the M-Lock.

Here are the 1 Ampere fuses from the Motoscope and M-Lock kits

These fuse boxes have connectors with crimping features to attach the wires. But I don't have a crimping tool. So you can cut off the crimping legs

Cover the connectors by tin and solder with the wires

Use heat shrinkable tubes

Assemble the fuse boxes

 

[TPEHAK]

Tonight I've finished the M-Lock installation. Do not forget to disconnect "-" battery terminal before each work.

Solder the battery connector to the fuse

Cover the two extensions wire from the fuse box by the boot to prevent wear

Here is the relay connector from the M-Lock kit

Cut off the crimping features from the relay connectors and solder them with the extensions wires from the fuse box

Connect the extensions wires from the fuse box with the relay from the M-Lock kit like on the picture below. The wires connectors location each other does not matter.

Trim the M-Lock sensor wire

Prepare two black wires and solder them together with the relay connector

I use copper wire to hold them together while sildering

Install the connector boot and the heat shrinkable tube on the connector

Solder the battery connector to one of the black wires

Prepare a green wire and solder it with the relay connector. Actually I would recommend you use a brown wire for this, I use the green wire because I don't have brown wire.

Solder the ends of the black wire, the green wire and the red wire of the fuse with the wires of the M-Lock sensor like on the picture below

Apply heat shrinkable tubes

Connect the wires with the relay from the M'Lock kit like on the picture below

Cut off the Key Switch socket from the main harness

Strip all these four wires

Tie all these wires with copper wire and apply tin

Isolate the wires with a heat shrinkable tube

Now let's clean more space under the headlight. Cut off the useless Aux plug

Isolate every of two wires separately using heat shrinkable tubes

Connect the black wire and the red wire of the M'lock harness with the battery

It works!

Apply outdoor double-side tape on the M-Lock sensor and on the M-Lock relay

Locate the sensor and the relay like on the pictures below. The sensor should be attached on the plastic bottom face. Do not locate the sensor on the aluminum faces of the seat frame, it will not work.

Done!

 

[TPEHAK]

I'm stuck with the Motosign. It looks like I can't connect it properly to the cluster wires as is. There are some problems with the engine check signal, with the low fuel level signal and with the neutral gear signal. It looks like the wires for these signals are not simple on/off switches, according the wiring diagram the wires go into the ECM module, maybe this is a part of the reason.

I cut off the cluster socket and prepared the wires for the test

Here is the picture shows the color and the purpose of the LEDs in the Motosign as it conceived by the manual.

I've clarified that the turn signals work fine, the high beam signal works fine (but I'd like to use the high beam LED for something else), the oil pressure signal works (I didn't test the oil signal but I think it will work properly). The fuel level signal, the neutral gear signal and the engine check signal do not work properly. The neutral gear LED is ON constantly, it slightly dims when the neutral gear comes off. The engine check LED lights constantly if the engine switch is OFF, The engine check LED comes brighter when engine check signal cones on, but in a few seconds after the engine check LED comes off again it comes brighter and stays in the bright condition all time the engine switch is ON.

Here is an example of the issue with the fuel level signal. I connected the LED from the Motosign to the fuel wire from the Instrument Cluster. The yellow/red wire from the cluster is the fuel wire (earth), the red/black wire from the cluster is the power supply (+12V), the orange wire from the Motosign is the earth wire from the warning LED, the black wire from the Motosign is the +12V wire from the warning LED. The warning LED lights constantly, but there is enough fuel in my motorcycle:

I'm not sure that the LED light will change once the fuel level will be low. I don't want to stop in the middle of the road with no fuel. Any suggestions?

Can I use the warning wire for both signals: for the engine check and for the fuel level at the same time? Will it affect on the ECM work?