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Major issue since Das Boot install

Buellxb Forum

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REVOLUTIONary_2B

Active member
Joined
Nov 19, 2012
Messages
31
Spent the $58 freakin' bucks on the "Wonderpart" everybody on here jerks off thiking about, and, to get right to the point, it won't freakin' stay on! Everytime the bike is a little lean, like during every cold start, the whole freakin' thing pops off the intake manifold, and I have to get the tools back out, reattach it, and rev the piss out of it to keep it rich until warm. Then I can ride. It has even come off while shuting the engine off, and after getting off the freeway. Had to push/hold the carb against the intake to get home. I went from a bike that was hard to start and ran fine (boot was torn under clamp), to an unreliable turd now sitting in the garage cuz I can't fire it up and go anywhere. WTF!?!?!?!?! Doesn't seem to matter how tight it is either. As you can tell, I'm a little pissed.
 
Are you on the right forum?

Maybe im the only one really confused by this....But i have no idea what you are talking about. This is as far out in left field as a avalanche of posts about Bacon. WTF??? DId everyone here drink some Kool-aid I didnt know about?

Bacon??? WTF?? So, being that this is an XB Forum, and XBs dont have carbs, im a little confused.

Im a carb kinda guy learning to adapt to this new fangled tune by computer stuff,, So, you would think i might understand this. No offence, im just trying to understand what this topic is about.

No offence if im the retarded one in the room and being ignorant.

Carry on.
 
Lol, not only is an XB Forum, but its an 1125 forum...and plenty of others including 1190's forum.


So what is this dasboot all about?
 
Buellysses, yes that is it in your link. I see no one has chimed in to say that I must not know how to stuff two ends into a clamp and tighten down the one bolt. That's nice. But I'm really looking for what the F#C/< the problem is so I can get it back on the road.
 
Why do u run lean? Even if u did not have the super boot you would still pop the carb off. I have been running the super boot and never had an issue. Don't run lean. If i remember correctly lean is bad. So you might need to look at what your running for jets.
 
Have you talked to the guy that sells them? Seems to be a standup guy from what I was reading, maybe he'll just exchange it.

And what Warcleave said, I'd address the lean-ness issue ASAP before you do any damage.
 
Any carb'ed engine may lean-spit a couple times during warmup or even unavoidably while cranking. There isn't any indication that it is running lean at all any other time. Certainly not an issue with idle adjustment. Oil temps are in the 170's and 180's F after screaming down the highway and zipping through town a couple miles to the garage (SoCal warm ambient weather).
 
What intake, exhaust and jets are you running?
Do you have the needle shimmed and the airscrew unpluged?

I'll send you a new rubber boot and can you send me the other one back to me when you get it.

Just PM me your contact info.
 
You shouldn't be running lean at all with a Blast. No "lean spit" or carb cough. If you are experiencing these issues, something is wrong; when everything is running right, you don't get carb cough at all.

I ran Dan's superboot for almost 5 years before I went to EFI. Sure, I popped it off a couple dozen times, especially when making engine upgrades and tuning. I never bought/asked for a replacement boot, still have that original dan-boot in the clamp, on my carb, on my workbench; not a doubt in my mind that I could throw it on tonight and it would work just fine.

Don't forget to scrub your "manifold" and carb with a wire brush where they contact the boot. Also check your evap cap on the left side to make sure it's not cracked. Unlike XB's, Blasts cannot run without that cap in place.
 
I'm pretty sure at this point the rubber boot doesn't fit tight enough on the carb in the first place, because no matter how tight the band is, the carb can still be pulled off. I actually managed to sucure the carb to the engine with zip-ties to the upper engine mount, and now the carb can't pop off and it can actually be ridden. I don't like it, but that's the temporary solution.
 
Okay, i learn something every day, If you look at the carb mounting on my Tuber Buell, or some of my sportsters,
while the carbs are mated to the engine with a Rubber boot or coupler, the carb itself is supported and held firm by the thru bolts in the aircleaners to the cyl heads, so the carb CANNOT pop off.

once in a great while,,often when my choke is on or the engine loads up and being lugged and THEN accelerated
I get a hiccup or cough sometimes with my 86 sporty, I know I dont have the S&S tuned quite right, and will be addressing that... my other carbed bikes dont do that. Id say you have a tuning issue going on if you are having that problem.

Now, most of other bikes are vintage British and a few Asian bikes, I LOVE using round slide Mikuni VM carbs, they work well for me, great tuneability, very flexible and best of all, they just work really well.

But if you look at their typical mountings, they use a very similar boot to this Buell blast system, and often people just mount the carb to this boot and let it hang there unsupported, It works well for a while but you will see cracking and deterioration of the rubber boot, Now, mikuni carbs have on the carb body a small U shaped hook, that is intended for a support. Some use thick O rings off a bracket, some use rubber strap, some use a hard alloy or steel bracket hooked into that U shaped hook and that supports the carb and takes the weight off the coupler,.

Now i never have worked on a Buell Blast myself,, but examining these pictures it sure seems to me that whats needed is some sort of support or brace or suspension for the carb body. Doesnt look like it would be easy to make one thats for sure,

Now lastly, a word about those couplings,,,, some are not true rubber, they can be a composite or Viton, or any number of materials, Some flat track and road racers use a commercial grade sandblast hose for custom length intakes for example, (IE Triumph, BSA, Norton, Yamaha XS650/750 for example) But NEVER use a petroleum product on them such as grease or petroleum jelly, intead use Dish soap when mating together to ease in.
May asian bikes such as CB750s or other inline 4s have rubber boots that harden up, and its really tough to slide the carb racks back in place and tighten the clamps, Use dish soap liquid like Dove or palm olive,

Now, if you have access to industrial suppliers, an excellent product is out there for O ring sealants and lubricants, I used to work in aerospace foundry and we had vacuum chambers and high pressure gas and air fittings and when sealing those up with boots or Orings we used a commercial grade O ring lubricant and sealer specifically for joints like that, Permatex, and 3m come to mind, but theres others. Im too lazy to go to my shop and look in my box of sealers and chemicals, These products are made FOR high heat and chemical exposure applications. We used them in a foundry for Stainless and Titanium casting apps. Not a bad thing to have in you toolbox. just my $0.02
 
my 2 cents...

i had to shave off the center of my boot, i just took a knife and cut the center flat.


I_____I*******I______I

before and the das boot wouldn't hold secure, until i smoothing the middle down like this

I________________I

then i have had an amazing seal.
 
before on the left, it pinched the middle and didn't seal solid like it will once the boot has the middle ridge removed.

also, with a pro intake, it provides much more stability.
 
If you were using proper hose clamps, then the ridge in the middle is fine.

What clamp were you using that you had to shave the center ridge off?

Maybe you should look to Dan (Thumpe), as he has his boots manufactured without the ridge, so the structure isn't compromised.
 
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