Muffler paint, rust and dents.....

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freak2180

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Mar 24, 2010
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Ok guys/gals I have a stock xb12 muffler that has the typical dent in the front bottom. I was cusious if I should spend the money to have it pulled or cut out & replaced or just leave as is.

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Second........for those that repainted their stocker or Hawk.......did you remove all the rust and paint or just smooth it out and paint? Ive been cleaning mine down to the bair metal but still have dark spots where the rust was. Will this be ok or not?

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Lastly.........those that still run the factory muffler with the valve. Did you leave it hooked up or rigged it to stay open. If rigged open was there a loss in lower end torque or not?

Im fixing this muffler up to replace my drummer SS for a while because I may have finaly convenced my wife to ride on a bike for the 1st time in her life and I dont want to be intimidated by the drone it can cause inside a helmet. I need to be able to comunicate with her without screaming.

Just want to see what the collective thinks....
 
I'm still running a stock exhaust, with the valve operational. Never felt the need to bother with it.

That's a pretty hefty dent, I'd say go with a cut and replace personally. Just from where it is I don't know if it'd work to well to pull it.

The black spots are probably just pitting, as long as there is no rust left in them you're good to paint it. If you paint with rust still on the exhaust it with just flake the paint off and rust all over. Judging by the pic, it looks like you should be fine to paint.
 
you answered your own question "just leave as is"
I was cusious if I should spend the money to have it pulled or cut out & replaced or just leave as is.

Ive been cleaning mine down to the bair metal but still have dark spots where the rust was. Will this be ok or not?
yes and no if you want the paint to stick and last then you will have to use a rust remover like Kleen-Strip Rust Converter it comes in a spray can.
or you can just paint it and run it. just know you will have to touch it up every once in a while.


those that still run the factory muffler with the valve. Did you leave it hooked up or rigged it to stay open. If rigged open was there a loss in lower end torque or not
you should just wire it open and don't worry about it. you will loss a little toque but not enough to write home about.
 
All the rust converters Ive looked at said not to apply to any surface that will exceed 200*f. I will be using Rustolium Extreem heat BBQ paint thats good up to 1200*.
 
Theres exhaust paint (rattle can) that's good up to 1700 deg. That's what ya want. I've seen 1500 that looks like crap after 6 months. 1200 after about a week...
 
The exhaust paint I had gotten was good up to 1200* and it lasted about a week. Then it started cracking and peeling like crazy. It sucked. Get the highest heat paint you can find.
 
Vht flame proof is a good paint but don't let the 2000* fool ya. It's only good at that temp for a few min before it starts letting go. It's only good up to 1500* steady if I remember correctly.
 
If a stock muffler is constantly reaching the 13-1500* mark then I'm more concerned with heat transfer in the poor motor than I am about the paint........
 
After a month my Hawk was losing its paint and showing bare metal on the conversion end. I painted it with VHT "very high temp" Flame Proof paint, its rated 1300-2000 degrees according to the can and it is holding up very well. Got it at Autozone for $6.99.
 
I sandblasted mine and used engine paint because I wanted a satin black look. I've ridden it all season and it looks like the day i installed it. The muffler should never see temps anywhere near 1500 so it should be ok. The hottest place would be where it attaches to the header and mine seems fine there thus far. Here's some pics:

Before
3525_20110220105437_L.jpg


Blasted
3525_20110220105521_L.jpg


Painted
3525_20110220110042_L.jpg


Most recent pic (mid to late July)
3525_20110714131631_L.jpg
 
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