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Munched front wheel

Buellxb Forum

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Mesozoic

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Messages
385
Location
Tucson, AZ
Well, I took my beloved XB12Ss out for a ride after replacing the rear wheel bearings, rear sprocket and installing a new belt. Rounding a corner I came across a large pothole, avoided it, but ended up running over a chunk of asphalt from the very same hole. The impact damaged the wheel lip on one side and caused the tire to deflate. Tire may also be toast after the event.

I was looking at what aftermarket options exist for Buell XB wheels since I wasn't too keen on paying top dollar for a new Chinese casting (factory Buell wheel). Any recommendations for quality replacement wheels?
 
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Thats a good option TBH. Buell wheels are particularly thin, but also a very high grade alloy. As we know, Erik was fanatical about rotational mass:eagerness: I would be ok repairing an OE wheel at a high quality shop, but aftermarket wheels (especially cars) are total junk. Scary if you look into it:(

Sucks you hit that:( The road a dangerous place. Was it a good brand tire? Might be ok for a street bike. I've got some 2/3 life Q3+ if you want to spoon on a sticky replacement.
 
I'm surprised it wasn't worse. I'll post some pics of the wheel when I get a chance, it's bad. I mean, you know it's bad when the tire deflates instantly! The tire was/is a Michelin Pilot Road 2CT, so definitely not a bad tire.
 
I think I can confirm that the wheel is toast. If not immediately discernible by the massive lip damage...

File_000.jpg

then a closer look reveals:
File_000(1).jpg
 
Your wheel is garbage. If you value your life you will junk it and not attempt to repair it. All XB fronts the same and readily available new and used thru the usual internet sources.
 
I did contact the city via their online reporting system and they claim to have repaired the road, but I’ve not been back out that way to check!
 
Maybe Ron Swanson fixed it.

All the materials are available at your local Food and Stuff.

46508344_1933425470044665_6449783879103414272_n.jpg
 
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Looks like there's some new wheels floating around the dealer system still, planning to stop by the dealer and inquire about pricing. I see new ones on eBay for around $300, so a used one at $250 probably not worth it.
 
Villain black, I believe. The local dealer can get them, but the prices aren’t great… seeing if they can do any better, but beggars can’t be choosers either, so I’ll probably walk out of here having paid around $450 for a new wheel. The alternative would be a new one from eBay for $300 + shipping.
 
Villain black, I believe. The local dealer can get them, but the prices aren’t great… seeing if they can do any better, but beggars can’t be choosers either, so I’ll probably walk out of here having paid around $450 for a new wheel. The alternative would be a new one from eBay for $300 + shipping.

The ones on ebay are from VPI, which is probably where the Harley dealer is going to order them from.

This one would be on my short list, as at least they have truing stand to check for straightness and runout. Whether they know how to use it or not is another story... but I'd be optimistic they did.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/266121770919
 
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The dealership parts department (Tucson HD) was extremely helpful and must like Buells or something. They pricematched the eBay price of $300 and will have a new wheel for me in a few days.

Where to source new brake rotors and mounting hardware? EBR used to sell kits, but not sure where to get them from now.
 
I have stock stuff (used), not sure about the BraKing brand on e-bay, but NCCR still has 'finned' OE race rotors, I'd recommend the EBR solid mounting kit too.

But why? It didn't look like it was compromised to me. Are you just doing the might-as-wells? I'd take this opportunity to clean/sand it really well and use disk lube or anti-seize on the floating bits of the hardware while it's off.
 
I have stock stuff (used), not sure about the BraKing brand on e-bay, but NCCR still has 'finned' OE race rotors, I'd recommend the EBR solid mounting kit too.

But why? It didn't look like it was compromised to me. Are you just doing the might-as-wells? I'd take this opportunity to clean/sand it really well and use disk lube or anti-seize on the floating bits of the hardware while it's off.

Braking brand is good brake parts, no worries. been using them for year's, here in the eussr it is among the top brands.
 
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I figured it's a might as well. The rear wheel has new bearings, new sprocket and new belt, the front needs a new rotor (thickness is at minimum spec) and the steering head bearings are being replaced as well.

EUSSR? Care to elaborate on that Dieter? :)
 
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