Must have matching tires???

[FlyingDuc]

[confused]

I purchased a Pirelli Scorpion Sync rear tire after my Corsa III rear tire lasted only 3k miles. I use my 1125CR for commuting, so I need a tire that lasts a bit longer. The front Corsa III looked good, so I decided to leave it on.

I took my bike to Simi Valley Harley to swap out the rear (they wanted $82 btw...expensive, but oh well). The looked at the rear and said they wouldn't do it because it had a different tread pattern than the front tire. Huh?[confused][confused] They were willing to swap out my rear only if I purchased a matching front from them. [mad] They didn't have one in stock, so I left. I called the Harley dealership in Ventura and they did have one in stock, but wanted almost twice the price for what I could get online. No friggin way! [down] But, they also had the same rule...must have matching front and rear tires. I tried going to a local jap dealer, but the don't have the proper tools to swap out a rear. So I ordered a front online and am waiting for it to arrive and will probably go back to Ventura Harley to have both installed (I've had it with Simi...this is the second bad experience I've had with them).

Anyone know why this policy exists?

I'm not a Harley rider...I don't have problems balancing my bike because I stay sober!

 

[aptbldr]

Motorcycles have a significant hinge between the rear and front tires: doesn't matter if tires match brand/style IMO.
Take the wheel off and carry it to the tire store.

 

[anrkizm95]

i have had mismatched tires on my buell since the rear diablo was replaced and havent had any problems.

 

[ophawk]

I've had mismatched tires several times. not a real big issue unless you are looking for 99.9% performance out of them, just commuting no problem, from where I stand.

I just picked up a Mich Pilot Road with near new tread for $40, here in Phoenix, and I still Have the Dunlop Q on the front, from my last set.

When I get the Funds, I thinking of trying the Q2's or Roadsmarts, as a Set.

 

[Kidder]

What idiot dealers.

I usually run with "non-matching" tires. I usually go with a Michelin Pilot Power up front and a Road in back.

Hell, I ran a semi-knobby on the front of my V-Strom and a dual sport tire in rear. It worked just fine.

 

[racepro716]

Look up my post on "my dirty little tire secret" I dig up used tires in the dead tire pile at the Suzuki dealership and have them installed for $20. I'll gladly use a half used tire for that price. I did this for years on my GPz, still works fine on the Buell. Wayne

 

[anrkizm95]

^ as fast as i go through rear tires i should start doing that.[up]

 

[BikerTrash]

Try other jap dealers, they usually have way better prices on service than Harley dealers.

 

[Baal]

You need to get better information as to why they make this recommendation. The primary reason is probably liability, and you're not going to get them to budge on that.

As a practical matter, let me tell you what I can remember about why a mismatch can be bad.

Front and rear tires (of the same brand and model) are designed to have profiles that work together. It has been my experience that those profiles are pretty similar among tires of the same manufacturer, for instance, Kidder's success with a Pilot Power in the front and a Pilot Road in the back. Across manufacturers, you can get differences in profiles that cause the "roll rate" as you turn to be different front-to-rear, causing unpredictable handling or instability. You can also get differences in grip that will do the same thing, both accelerating and braking.

Front and rear tread patterns can differ a good bit and not cause you problems. Where you can get into difficulty is where the difference is such that the grip is different F-R, for instance using a Scorpion Sync on the front (a more open, semi-dual-sport pattern) and a Diablo on the back. This could introduce the possibility that the rear would "hook up" better, and potentially push the front. As to your use of the DCIII in the front and the Sync in the back-I doubt that would cause you any issues.

Front and rear compounds can cause a similar problem, but usually only if the grippier compound is in the back, for instance a Pilot Road in the front with a Power Pure in the back. Again the rear grip could be enough better to cause you to push the front on acceleration. But it's very common for racers to mismatch compounds, say a soft front with a medium or hard rear. But all that's way over my head.

Of course, you can introduce a lot of the same problems by changing only one tire: A new rear and a shagged front, for example.

Can this really cause problems? Well, IMO, the odds are better the harder you're pushing. OR if the road surface is bad. OR if the weather turns bad. Some riders never go hard enough to over-ride a tire that's nearly shot. Others are skillful enough or sensitive enough to tell the degree to which any given tire or set of tires are "going off."

Me? I don't have much of a clue, but I know what I like and what works for me in terms of grip and cornering. And as far as the info above goes, I'm sure somebody will post up and say I'm FOS, but hopefully it's helpful. But, if you follow any of this advice and you fall and bust your a$$, you're on your own. [smirk][up]

 

[wolfo68]

just take the rim off and carry it in with the tire, don't even let them see you don't have the same kind

 

[Alfatango1]

That's lame of them, I know plenty of places that will do a mix pattern and or brand. I've got a Power Pilot on back and a Dunlop on front now. I'm due for a new front and may or may not go with the Power Pilot. The independent guy I use rides a XB12R with a pilot CT2 on back and a Bridgestone up front. He loves this combo.