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my battle with the wobbles

Buellxb Forum

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19k and yeah wheel bearings are 23 a piece IIRC. but for whatever reason buell parts says i need an axle and spacer kit which is another 119.
 
I'd bet you need all three sets. My steering head bearings were shot at 10k miles. My wheel bearings are shot also and I'm just past 10k miles. They are not really sealed bearings so they don't last as long as other bikes.

You can reuse your spacers. Nothing agains ASB, but I'd buy from all balls. I think it was more like $30 for both front and rear sets. The tapered rollers for the steering head was under $50 IIRC.
 
I took one of my stock steering head bearings apart(10k ish miles):

2012-02-22190418.jpg


2012-02-22190459.jpg


2012-02-22190928.jpg


2012-02-22191105.jpg


I was amazed it even still moved. I didn't realize how bad it was. Very rusty, no grease, and didn't turn freely by hand. Actually had some spots while turning it by hand it'd "lock".
 
New ones:

2012-02-01191548.jpg


2012-02-01191451.jpg


I'll be doing my wheel bearings soon as well.

I'd bet at double the mileage that you have over me yours need replaced.
 
I doubt the frame is tweak, HIGHLY doubt it. My bike had been dropped before i bought and restored it. it had a small dent in the tank/frame even. Its straight as an arrow, and the dent was covered by a frame puck. I can take my hands on the bars at most any speed and ride for miles with no problems. As others have stated, BEARINGS first, then basically go over the bike. Make sure the swingarm is tight, the forks are even in the trees, the wheels dont have any play, etc.

And +1 on the ebay allballs bearings. They worked great for me. I figure I can replace them every few years for what those cheap ones cost and have peace of mind.
 
With the tapered bearings. How do you install them? Which part do you press in the hub. Oh yeah sorry about the thread jack!
 
With the tapered bearings. How do you install them? Which part do you press in the hub. Oh yeah sorry about the thread jack!

The race gets pressed into the frame. The service manual claims you need a special install tool, but I disagree. They went in VERY easy using the old bearing as an install tool. I used a rubber mallet(could use a hammer) to hit the old bearing against the new race to push it in. I didn't do this, but you could also freeze the new races first to shrink them and they go in even easier. Took about 15-20 min working slowly to get both of them in.
 
Yes the race is the outer part. The bearing itself is the casing with the rollers.

Tapered roller is better than ball bearing because it spreads the load out over a greater surface area. So less pressure, longer life, smoother rotation.

One guy on another forum drilled and tapped a grease fitting on his steering head and filled it with grease, then every oil change he pumps more grease in and it squeezes the old grease out of the bearings. Or so he says. That steering neck hollow area is huge and would probably hold a whole tube or more of grease. But that's what he said. That way he could keep fresh grease in them and just wipe what squeezed out off.
 
strange, I ordered new bearing from HD and I got two closed bearings like the blue one in the picture up top.

I my old ones were like that too, both of them.

Am I missing something. I don't have any tapered bearing on my steering head.

04 xb12s
 
The blue bearing in the picture above is an oem steering head ball bearing.

The other bearings pictured are aftermarket(all balls) steering head tapered roller bearings.

The oem ones suck.
 
So the bearing can fall right out when the shaft isn't through it. Or is the bearing on the inside of the racer?
 
I'm not following what you're asking...

The race and the bearing are two separate pieces, yes. Once assembled with the triple trees clamped down it all stays together(obviously, lol).
 
Oh ok. I got ya! I was thinking about a wheel bearing. Not triple trees

Thanks. Definitely getting those soon!
 
If you or anyone else wants more help on the job let me know. IIRC I actually did a write up on another forum, but not here (didn't want to retype it all lol). I could do another one I suppose, I don't think I was very thorough in the other one.

I haven't done wheel bearings yet....soon though, within a month or two I will.
 
i dont see anyone has mentioned balancing your wheel but i know my front wheel wobbles only at around 55/60 and i recently lost a wheel weight so i know its out of balance.

just another thing to check.
 
IanDark, I've brought that up in other threads. I noticed my weights are placed on the left side of the wheel as opposed to what the manual prescribes. I experience the wobbles around 90mph and have wondered if that might be a factor. I've reduced the wobbles greatly by tuning suspension and adjusting tire pressure as well as moving more of my weight toward the front end. I'm replacing bearings next. Just over 10,000 miles on an 09.

Where can I get those roller bearings?
 
Thanks for all the input snrusnak. I seem to have a cyclical front end shimmy (shake shake shake.........shake shake shake.........shake shake shake, etc) between 70/80, undetectable below 70 mph. New tires with around 500 miles and have tuned the suspension according to the manual. I'm going to have my wheel balanced checked but I'm also thinking about replacing the bearings also.

Do you know where the all balls bearings are made? Seems people recommend staying away from any thing chinese and be sure to go with something german.

09 XB12ss, 6200 mi.
 
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