my blast vs ninja 250

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no but the person that left first could still win the race with a slower time. its called a holeshot win
 
No dragstrip I have been to includes the RT in the ET. they are both printed, but the RT is not included in the time. It is so you can give people a lead (or sit on the line spooling your turbo, if youre me)
 
There are tons of variables that can effect your time/mph. If you have a quick 60 ft. time but your bike/car has less top end you may beat your competitor still but come in at a slower speed. Whereas the complete opposite can be true as well.

EDIT: you guys just need to get it over with and drag the two bikes. My money is on the blast.
 
no but the person that left first could still win the race with a slower time. its called a holeshot win
Exactly how one gets a lower et but slower trap speed. Depending on the bike or car you could still lose obviously do to power etc.
 
This is simple - the older Ninja would win because the Blast top end was 96 and the Ninja's was 100, however a 2000 Blast VS an older Ninja was a tie for that reason - the 2000 having the slightly different gearing. A Blast vs. a new Ninja wins because the top end on the new Ninja is 92 to the Blasts 96. If twisties where involved - the Blast would win because the bike was built with much better balance. Erik Buell's Trio of Tech. The looks of the new Ninja are nice though, but it always makes me smile to hear it wind up to get to where the Blast already is.
EZ
 
I don't think these bikes will make it any where close to their top speeds by the end of the 1/4.
 
Depends what you do to it, even a stock set up, tuned up with some carb and exhaust mods, really improves the Blasts basic abilities to such an extent that the quote "It seems like a new bike..." is often repeated.
EZ's Stock bike Mods:
1)Drill a 1 5/8" hole directly across from the first hole of the stock exhaust on the same side as the stock hole but all the way to the right of it.
2)Rejet 45/170 (some years will have 170 stock - some don't)
3)Shim needle to 0.05 - 2 #4 machined brass washers is close.
4)Do the air box Mod - mild or wild - still keeping the basic look though.
5)Drill air-screw plug out, and bottom screw then turn 2 2/3 turns out.
6)Do primary adjustment - preferably sound method - on the loose side.
7)Make a splitter or buy one - http://scaryfastracing.net/harley.html - see carb tkv.
8)Buy an Yost Tube and put it in your carb - Ebay has them cheap for a CV40 - 2000 era - discard the rest of kit.
Eight simple things to increase the delivery of power on a Buell Blast - making it even more of a Blast to ride!
EZ

Jetting for a V&H would be 45/175 - rest the same.
EZ
 
so i went for a ride with my buddy with the 250 and i can keep up with him. the thing is when my rpms get kinda high it starts vibirating pretty bad and it feels like its loosing power. im not close to full throttle and idk where the rev limiter is. when i get up past like 60 it viberates pretty bad too but i still have a little power. is this normal with the blast?
 
Primary is too tight - easy fix, the vibration - check your front isolator - another easy fix, just a bit more time consuming.
EZ
 
could the primary being too tight have anything to do with it being kinda hard to get in down into first??
 
my problem with the loss of power seems like it gets worse the hotter it is outside. any other ideas?
 
Also replace the Intake Boot - seriously - it is probably way old and should be done just for general principle. Besides if you do that then you have ruled out 9/10ths of the other problems it can cause. If it still does this after doing those two things let me know. The final solution, after checking grounds, battery, vacuum line, and tank vent line and vent, as well as dis-abling the kickstand switch(Cut & twist wires together) and clutch safety switch(flip center diode)becomes obvious.
EZ
 
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