My headers blew up!

[afpreppie04]

Glad to see you are up and running again! I placed an order with Dean (just saw the pictures above, it's almost done) and decided to do my intake gaskets and replace the exhaust studs while it was apart, so it should be better than ever when I get it back together.

Did yours just crack out of the blue? Mine started running very poorly for about 20 minutes prior to it breaking.

 

[DiRTeNtwisted]

[up] TheycallmeCrash

 

[wally]

I noticed loads of popping and backfiring and the first set of traffic lights I downshifted is when I noticed something was definitely wrong!

Same symptoms as you - misfiring, running badly and really loud!

Wish I could afford a D&D, but it will take me more than 2 years to save up with our crappy exchange rate...

 

[d_adams]

 

[afpreppie04]

They look great Dean!

 

[supertt1200]

i had the exact same thing happen to me. at least you weren't stuck splitting lanes in heavy LA traffic for 10 miles when it happened!

 

[Naibaf82]

Ok after reading this tread I'm starting to really get concerned! I had to lay my SS down and now have a dent in my header..

[/img] I'm not sure if this pic is going to post from my iPhone but if not ill post it again when I get home. Now Internet Annoyance don't bite my head off about what I'm about to say but just as a quick fix I wrapped it to cover it up.......

[/img] Now in my defense I AM... going to either replace it and Ceramic coat it or get it repaired and Ceramic coat it...! I figured that I could just wrap it for the time being so I could still ride till I got the new pipe! Also the dent takes away from the curb appeal of the bike. But can that dent be fixed cheaper that buying a new header?!

 

[Naibaf82]

Oh and one more thing can Ceramic coating come in different colors such as black? Just because my SS is black and red

 

[d_adams]

Black is available for ceramic. There's actually several colors that should hold up to the heat, silver, titanium, cobalt and different shades like that. I'll be doing some testing in the near future.

 

[Internet Annoyance]

Thats a really sweet looking bike. Im not interested in biting anyones head off. All im trying to do is provide good solid information to people who might not have been aware of it what the facts are. What you choose to do is entirely your own choice.
repair is an option, however i should sate that the metal to me on these Buells is a bit odd, I have yet to determine what exactly these pipes are made with. Ive worked with a lot of Stainless and mild steel and these pipes seem to be a hybrid. I would love to know exactley what they are.
so if a mild steel pipe like a harley or triumph would have, id say it wouldnt be too hard to take off the pipe, and use a variety of tools...(Metal shaping spoon, tire lever, crow bar, old fork tube, and working from the muffler end jam them up in there and with a torch over the dent, gently work out the dent and then shape it with a Body working hammer and dolly. then heat again and anneal it. afterwards,,, have it ceramic coated. the dent looks very accessible. However i dont know the propertys of that kinda material
Not everyone has access to that kind of tools and a torch,, not too mention it takes practice to work out dents, You might make a mess out of it. Or you could be the next metal working all star?

I bet theres some metal working videos on youtube if you care to look. I know of several frame shops and wheel repair,,, all of whom can repair the above,, not sure how many shops out there repair exhausts like that. Might be better to trust a skilled guy if you can find one. Im guessing the easiest solution if just buy anohter pipe from a part out, or step up and buy one of Deans exhausts.

 

[d_adams]

I _think_ the stock headers are 301 or 303 ss. I know it's not 304.

300 Series—austenitic chromium-nickel alloys

Type 301—highly ductile, for formed products. Also hardens rapidly during mechanical working. Good weldability. Better wear resistance and fatigue strength than 304.
Type 302—same corrosion resistance as 304, with slightly higher strength due to additional carbon.
Type 303—free machining version of 304 via addition of sulfur and phosphorus. Also referred to as "A1" in accordance with ISO 3506.[6]
Type 304—the most common grade; the classic 18/8 stainless steel. Outside of the US it is commonly known as "A2 stainless steel", in accordance with ISO 3506 (not to be confused with A2 tool steel).[6]
Type 304L—same as the 304 grade but lower carbon content to increase weldability. Is slightly weaker than 304.
Type 304LN—same as 304L, but also nitrogen is added to obtain a much higher yield and tensile strength than 304L.
Type 308—used as the filler metal when welding 304.
Type 309—better temperature resistance than 304, also sometimes used as filler metal when welding dissimilar steels, along with inconel.
Type 316—the second most common grade (after 304); for food and surgical stainless steel uses; alloy addition of molybdenum prevents specific forms of corrosion. It is also known as marine grade stainless steel due to its increased resistance to chloride corrosion compared to type 304. 316 is often used for building nuclear reprocessing plants. 316L is an extra low carbon grade of 316, generally used in stainless steel watches and marine applications, as well exclusively in the fabrication of reactor pressure vessels for boiling water reactors, due to its high resistance to corrosion. Also referred to as "A4" in accordance with ISO 3506.[6] 316Ti includes titanium for heat resistance, therefore it is used in flexible chimney liners.
Type 321—similar to 304 but lower risk of weld decay due to addition of titanium. See also 347 with addition of niobium for desensitization during welding.