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Neutral light not working
- Thread starter Ace
- Start date
Help Support Buellxb Forum:
Rays
Well-known member
Does the bike start in neutral without having to pull the clutch in?
If yes, then the switch is OK and there is possibly an issue with the bulb in the instrument cluster.
If no, then check the switch electrical connector is in place (it is a push-fit behind the front pulley cover - partially covered by the front pulley at about the 2 0'clock position) and the continuity of the switch itself.
A quick test of the instrument light is to remove the connector at the neutral switch and ground that point with the ignition on.
It is isn't too uncommon to have that switch fail (my '06 Uly had this fail very early in it's life at about the 12,000 mile point).
Assuming the worst, it is a bit tricky to replace but don't let a shop convince you that they need to remove the front pulley to replace the switch. I modified a cheap socket so it would fit in behind the sprocket with the belt moved out of the way and I have seen some other home-brew tools made that looked like they would work with the belt in place.
This was my solution but there are others - the switch only has a handful of threads and has a fairly modest torque.
BTW - with the bike in neutral you should measure 0 ohms between the centre contact you can see in the picture and the body of the switch.
The neutral light will actually work with some resistance in this switch because of the very low current drawn by the bulb but for the start relay circuit to operate correctly this resistance needs to be very low.
If yes, then the switch is OK and there is possibly an issue with the bulb in the instrument cluster.
If no, then check the switch electrical connector is in place (it is a push-fit behind the front pulley cover - partially covered by the front pulley at about the 2 0'clock position) and the continuity of the switch itself.
A quick test of the instrument light is to remove the connector at the neutral switch and ground that point with the ignition on.
It is isn't too uncommon to have that switch fail (my '06 Uly had this fail very early in it's life at about the 12,000 mile point).
Assuming the worst, it is a bit tricky to replace but don't let a shop convince you that they need to remove the front pulley to replace the switch. I modified a cheap socket so it would fit in behind the sprocket with the belt moved out of the way and I have seen some other home-brew tools made that looked like they would work with the belt in place.
This was my solution but there are others - the switch only has a handful of threads and has a fairly modest torque.
BTW - with the bike in neutral you should measure 0 ohms between the centre contact you can see in the picture and the body of the switch.
The neutral light will actually work with some resistance in this switch because of the very low current drawn by the bulb but for the start relay circuit to operate correctly this resistance needs to be very low.
user_deleted
Well-known member
great info from rays and diagnosis spot on as usual. if and when you remove the switch i have found that sometimes it becomes coated with very fine debris from the primary/trans lube and a good cleaning brings it back to life.
pagedownhere
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2011
- Messages
- 143
Great info, I was just looking into this myself. My neutral light is very dim and my bike won't start in neutral unless my clutch is pulled in. is there a part # for the neutral switch? I tried looking on asb but didn't get a definite part.
Rays
Well-known member
Part Number 33900-99 - same number in the '06 & '09 parts manuals.
I replaced my switch early last year. Got the switch from a Harley dealer, I think was a $10/12 part. Removing it was the only tricky part because of the socket issue mentioned earlier. I believe I went to sears and found an extended socket that I thought was thinner which worked (another $5 maybe).
Brando4905
Active member
XB forum to the rescue again.
THANKS, John for that tip, you saved me a trip to the dealer for a new switch. Mine quite on me today and a cleaning was all it needed.
Cooter
Well-known member
If its doing that in Neutral, replace the switch or take it out and clean it well. Depress the silver ball on the tip to clean inside it. Brakeleen will be fine.
If it's doing that while riding (in gear), the wire from the switch the dash is rubbing ground somewhere.
If it's doing that while riding (in gear), the wire from the switch the dash is rubbing ground somewhere.
I took mine out the first time it happened, I didn’t have a narrow socket and pulled the drive pulley. Cleaned the switch, worked for a week or two. I’d recommend just replace the 10 dollar switch. Especially if you remove the pulley. I now have a thin wall socket 
Cooter
Well-known member
Thats a good recommendation ^^^.
I have pretty good luck with a good set of needle nose pliers. They aren't torqued very hard.
I have pretty good luck with a good set of needle nose pliers. They aren't torqued very hard.
