New Cooling Fan...and still no workie?!?!?!

[dawiz45]

Well...I noticed the lack of my cooling fan running at shut down a week or so ago...(here on the Gulf Coast of Texas it is already getting into the low 90’s at midday)…and at that very same time, I remembered the last time I heard it run…it sounded like the bearings were going south…it was “squalling like a gut shot Panther!”…I checked the fuse and looked it over for an obstruction in the blade…fuse good and nada on the obstruction…so…being the gambling guy I am (with no laptop or computer skills to plug in and decipher the ECM data)…I found a NOS fan at St Paul HD…called Lance up and it was here in 3 days!
After much time spent at work reading all the articles I could Google on the internet about the trials and tribulations of changing the said fan out…I knocked it out in about a 1hr.
I hung it by the bars from the carport (I have no fancy jap bike stands)…jacked it up from the jacking point…removed the rear shock (adjuster knob & reservoir)…took off the rear break reservoir and moved it to the outside of the sub-frame…finagled the fan around till I squeezed it out…(right side first and rotate clock-wise and squeeze the main wiring harness)…and took my time and finessed the new one in. (BTW…it looks as if the MOCO was listening and the replacement fan was about 1/2in shorter on the top of the mounting flange and it was easier to installed than to remove the old one!)
Put her all back together in short order and feeling pretty good about myself…immediately went to a ‘shake-down run’…after about a 30 minute ride pulled back under the carport and shut her down ready to hear that magical whir of the cooling fan and………..NADDA!!!!…bummer…..:mad-new:
Which brings me to my question?
Is there something I am missing???...(remember, I do not have the ability to interrogate the ECM)…best I can tell is…the only thing left would be the Temp. Sensor in the head…correct? Any way to test that component?
Guess my next move will be when I have another day off to remove the air box and check the temp sensor and its wires for chaffing and/or breakage?
Any constructive comments would be greatly appreciated…

 

[d_adams]

Weak or bad ground. Each circuit is completed through the ecm to ground.

 

[dawiz45]

...any clues on where/what location to check the ground at?

 

[Tripleted]

Ummmmmm....the wires to the frame?

 

[rchuff]

grounds at steering neck and to the right of your battery.

 

[Jules]

I can recommend a Buelltooth and ECMDroid, you can check the operation of the fan which would prove the wiring without having the hassle of removing a load of stuff again...

 

[dawiz45]

Thanks for the tips...working a stretch of 21 'nites' right now...prob be the 28th before I have a chance to trouble shoot any further...I will up date as I do.

 

[dawiz45]

Ok...here’s what I found so far...

1) The only engine code is a "21"...which makes sense cause I have disconnected the exhaust valve when I installed the Hawk muffler mod.(guess I need to pick up an exhaust valve emulator)

2) Grounded the #6 pin at the grey connector and the fan runs.

3) Inspected the Engine Temp sensor and its wiring...no broken or chaffed spots wires...but the protective fabric wrap was… so I rerouted the wire to get it off the rocker box and out from under the wiring harness.

4) Measured the resistance of the head sensor from pin #9 of the grey connector and negative of battery at ambient temp ~90F...and reads 56K...chart shows it should be ~41,295 at 77F and at 104F should be ~25,647. Warmed it up in the drive way for 15min and it read 59K...went for a 20 minute ride...tested again and it read 59.5K.

Looks to me that the temp sensor is bad...but the flow chart in the Manuel as a test for Code 36 (which I don't have?!?!?)...page (2006 Buell Ulysses: Fuel System 4-83)...reads as follows:
Fuse OK? - YES > Voltage at pin 6? - YES > Jumper pin 6 to Gnd, fan run? - YES > Replace ECM.