New owner need a little help!

[Briain]

Hi
I bought an 05 Ulysses a few months ago. Really clean only 20k miles on the clock. When I went to collect the bike previous owner said occasionally the engine warning light would come out to just turn the engine on and off again and it would clear. To be fair I drove the bike 100 odd miles home and the light came on and off a few times. But then it snapped the belt the first week I had it, which was surprisingly easy to fix but it started to run very rough in wet weather and as soon as the bike has warmed up the engine warning light is pretty much permanently on. So Far I have replaced the plugs with iridium ones I have also replaced the spark plug leads the front cylinder lead was damaged and that has solved the wet weather running problems. I also replaced the air filter with a K and N filter. There's a cable attached to the top of the airbox which was disconnected I reconnected it and tensioned the slack out of it. I have since replaced the speed sensor and the bike actually runs worse with the new one when the engine is cold is harder to start and seems to want to cut out till the engine warms a little. So in summary

Replaced leads
replaced spark plugs
reconnected cable on airbox
cleaned earths under headlight and battery terminals
charged battery overnight
replaced airfilter
replaced speed sensor

Whats really strange about this issue is the engine warning light doesn't come if its raining only when its dry. I'm now thinking there's a damaged/ exposed wire in the loom somewhere, but I don't have a clue where to look. ANy help would be appreciated.

Briain

 

[Cooter]

A speed sensor wouldn't make the bike harder to start...

But start here:
http://buellmods.com

Seriously.

It is vastly better than the internet guessing. Cost you less, take less time, and be MUCH less frustrating.
Diagnosis of a running issue will be MUCH easier using ECMDroid (free). Check out Rev-Mo.com for details but PLEASE refrain from thinking tuning it will fix it! You need to FIX IT before you modify it.

Uly's have only a few know issues.
1) A low seat option can contact the ECM and physically crack it causing odd issues. Theres a re-locate bracket available, but check it out.
2) Grounds. Especially at the steering head. Take them off, clean them, and remount. You can coat with anything if you wish after that, paint, grease, whatever.

 

[RidetheLightning]

I believe you mentioned you cleaned the grounds already, and Cooter reinforced that, but it's worth looking at the manual he linked and making sure you got em all. You mentioned charging the battery, but I would get it load tested at an auto parts store just to be sure it's good. I believe the wire you re-connected was the exhaust actuator valve, so I'm assuming you have stock exhaust. Get the bluetooth dongle like cooter said from rev-mo and get ECM droid for diagnostics. If you buy the dongle from them they can send you the stock map too. Who knows what the PO did, and it's good to start with a good baseline. After re-loading stock map (which shouldn't be too far off if you still have stock muffler with K&N, though the guy at rev-mo may encourage the "race" map for this combo), do a TPS reset, and you know you're basically stock. The plugs and wires were good to replace anyways, so it's not like you're out anything yet, but you'll want to do some real diagnosing before searching for potentially more expensive solutions.

 

[Barrett]

Briain: you have stored historical fault codes consisting of numbers 16....21....37....43.
16 from historical voltage drop....21 from the IEV system being fiddled with....37&43 from SS being disconnected and likelihood of ignition being activated at that time.
you will need to access the ECM thru the diagnostic port and clear all of them.
confirm that your IEV actuator assembly is actually working.
confirm that one or both battery cables aren't cracked at either terminal end....total of 4 terminal ends. known weak spot which results in #16.

where to look? disassemble the right side handlebar mounted switchgear assembly. CHECK the kill switch for integrity and corrosion. CHECK the wiring loom feeding the rear EFI injector. known to rub thru and ground to cylinder rocker cover. CHECK the main wiring loom where it wraps around the steering neck area. inside same is the main 12 volt positive RED POWER wire. known to rub thru and break. CHECK your ecm where the twin wiring looms plug in for cracking and check ecm cosmetics for signs of rubbing against the seat pan. both will be obvious if there.

all the above known sources of trouble on early XBX models.
you will continue to have active intermittent CEL until all of the above is resolved and the fault codes cleared.

 

[34nineteen]

That’s some damn fine advice for one helluva great guy!

 

[Cooter]

Thanks.

 

[Cooter]

Barrett is probably exactly correct, and the service manual also describes how to check what codes you have by jumping the terminals in the data plug.

 

[Briain]

Thanks for all the replies, I ordered the buelltooth. While I wait for that to arrive I'll recheck the earths and also the connections in the switchgear. Really want to like the bike I nearly bought one new in 07 but the constant warning light is making me a bit nervous as I use it to commute so more than anything need it to start in the morning.

 

[Briain]

So the buelltooth showed up. So I have errors 13,36, 15, 21. So I reset them and the engine warning light reappeared. I'll recheck tomorrow to see if any of the codes have disappeared. But I'm thinking I need a new o2 sensor and there are issues with the exhaust valve but I'll test that at the weekend to see if it moves just have to take the tank cover and the buelltooth will allow me to see if the fan actually works or not (it did before but I haven't heard it in a while). Thanks for the help above. Would these errors be related to each other/

 

[Cooter]

You didn't mention if they were current or historical codes.
Clearing error codes may make you feel better but does not fix anything... It simply erases all the clues it's trying to tell you to whats actually wrong with the bike.
Additionally, the CEL being "on" or "off" will not make the bike run any differently, your problem STILL exists regardless of the CEL being on, and will continue to exist until you diagnose it and fix it.

Here's the list of what the codes mean (from Rev-Mo.com where you bought the Buelltooth).


Errors are stored in the various error bytes. Depending on the DDFI version up to three different error types will be shown:
Current errors are set when an error is currently present, like a broken wire, that hasn't been fixed yet.
Recent errors occured on the last ride, but are not present any more (e.g. raised by a slack joint) and will be cleared once the ECM is powered down.
Historic errors are stored in the non-volatile memory of the ECM until they get cleared with the software.
For XB models, the errors are grouped into Diagnostic Trouble Codes, which help identifying the faulty device (e.g. temperatur sensor). Most trouble codes therefore cover quite opposite errors, as a too low or a too high voltage. The EcmSpy software will decode the actual error from the error byte (as shown below) and provide you with a clear text error message too.

Trouble Code XB Trouble Code 1125 Error Byte Error Bit (0-7) Bit Value (dec.) Meaning
11 P0122 0 5 32 TPS Voltage too low
P0123 0 6 64 TPS Voltage too high
13 P0151 0 2 4 Rear O2 Sensor always rich
P0152 0 3 8 Rear O2 Sensor always lean
P0154 0 4 16 Rear O2 Sensor inactive
14 P0117 0 0 1 Engine/Coolant Temp. Sensor Voltage too low
P0118 0 1 2 Engine/Coolant Temp. Sensor Voltage too high
15 P0112 1 6 64 Intake Air Temp. Sensor Voltage too low
P0113 1 7 128 Intake Air Temp. Sensor Voltage too high
16 P0562 1 4 16 Battery Voltage too low
P0563 1 5 32 Battery Voltage too high
21 ? 4 0 1 Exhaust Valve always open
? 4 1 2 Exhaust Valve always closed
? 4 2 4 Exhaust Valve Controller Voltage too low
? 4 3 8 Exhaust Valve Controller Voltage too high
22 P1110 1 6 64 Active Intake Controller Voltage too low
P1111 5 7 128 Active Intake Controller Voltage too high
P1112 4 4 16 Active Intake Control TPS Feedback Failure
23 P0261 1 2 4 Injector 1 (Front) Control Voltage too low
P0262 1 3 8 Injector 1 (Front) Control Voltage too high
24 P2303 2 6 64 Coil 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too low
P2304 2 7 128 Coil 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too high
25 P2301 1 0 1 Coil 1 (Front) Control Voltage too low
P2302 1 1 2 Coil 1 (Front) Control Voltage too high
26 P1154 5 4 16 Clutch Switch Voltage too low
? 5 5 32 Clutch Switch Voltage too high
27 P1155 5 2 4 Neutral Switch Voltage too low
? 5 3 8 Neutral Switch Voltage too high
32 P0264 2 4 16 Injector 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too low
P0265 2 5 32 Injector 2 (Rear) Control Voltage too high
33 P0628 2 2 4 Fuel Pump Control Voltage too low
P0629 2 3 8 Fuel Pump Control Voltage too high
34 P0506 6 5 32 Idle Air Controller Position too low (RPM too high)
P0507 6 6 64 Idle Air Controller Position too high (RPM too low)
P0511 6 7 128 Idle Air Controller Curcuit Failure
35 ? 2 0 1 Tachometer Output Voltage too low
? 2 1 2 Tachometer Output Voltage too high
36 P0691 0 7 128 Cooling Fan 1 (Rear/Right) Control Voltage too low
43 P0502 6 2 4 Vehicle Speed Sensor Input Voltage too low
P0503 6 3 8 Vehicle Speed Sensor Input Voltage too high
? 6 4 16 Vehicle Speed Output Voltage too low
44 P1151 3 6 64 Bank Angle Sensor Voltage too low
P1152 3 7 128 Bank Angle Sensor Voltage too high
46 P0616 5 0 1 Starter Relay Control Voltage too low
47 P1601 5 1 2 Auxiliary Power Relay Control Voltage too low
52 P0604 3 4 16 ECM RAM Failure
53 P0605 3 3 8 ECM ROM Failure
54 P0603 3 2 4 ECM EEPROM Failure
55 P0607 3 1 2 ECM Microprocessor Failure
54 ? 3 0 1 ECM Sync. Failure
? P1501 4 5 32 Sidestand Switch Voltage too low
P1502 4 6 64 Sidestand Switch Voltage too high
P1503 4 7 128 Sidestand Down
? P0107 8 4 16 Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Voltage too low
P0108 8 5 32 Manifold Air Pressure Sensor Voltage too high
? P2228 8 6 64 Barometric Pressure Sensor Voltage too low
P2229 8 7 128 Barometric Pressure Sensor Voltage too high
? P1047 7 4 32 O2 EGO Correction Cylinder Difference too high
57 P0192 7 2 4 Fuel Pressure Sensor Voltage too low
P0193 7 3 8 Fuel Pressure Sensor Voltage too high
P0087 7 1 2 Fuel Rail/System Pressure too low
? P0131 7 5 32 Front O2 Sensor always rich
P0132 7 6 64 Front O2 Sensor always lean
P0134 7 7 128 Front O2 Sensor inactive
? P0693 8 0 1 Cooling Fan 2 (Left) Control Voltage too low
P0694 8 1 2 Cooling Fan 2 (Left) Control Voltage too high
? P0337 8 2 4 Crank Position Sensor Voltage too low
P0338 8 3 8 Crank Position Sensor Voltage too high
? ? 10 1 2 Instrument Cluster Mode Button stuck
? ? 10 2 4 Instrument Cluster Toggle Button stuck
? ? 10 3 8 Instrument Cluster Low Fuel Light Voltage too low
? ? 10 4 16 Instrument Cluster Low Fuel Light Voltage too high
? ? 10 5 32 Instrument Cluster Communication Error
? ? 10 6 64 Instrument Cluster Oil Pressure Light Voltage Failure
? ? 10 7 128 Instrument Cluster Security Sytem Failure

13 (always rich). It means the ECM is seeing an "always rich" signal. It does not mean you need to replace the O2 (rear exhaust headpipe, behind the fan)
15 IAT voltage low. It means the ECM is seeing low (or no) voltage from the Intake Air Temp sensor (in the airbox baseplate) Is it plugged in?
21 IEV open. Won't affect running, so check that later, or cycle it with "active tests" in ECMDroid and see if it works if you're bored.
36 Fan control voltage. Also will not affect the engine running. Use "active tests" to check operation and wiring for faults.

Check.
Your.
Grounds.
The wet weather fault is a big clue.
Use the service manual to find them:
Buellmods.com
The big one at the battery and the one behind the flvyscreen at the steering neck commonly fail/break/corrode.

If you don't/won't/can't do that, take it to a shop that will.

 

[34nineteen]

Did you type all that with one hand?

 

[Cooter]

One finger actually. Guess which one? LOL.