New scg owner, Huge mistake

[red09low]

Bought a 2009 cherry bomb trans scg last week and have been sorting it out while I wait on the title. I'm not a mechanic but I have been doing most of the scheduled maintenance and repairs on my bikes for the past 18 years. I have found the information on this site to be very helpful. Changed spark plugs, repaired and rerouted melted vent hose, etc. I never would expect that I could strip out the oil drain plug but somehow I did. The dealer that I bought the bike from had overfilled the oil so I drained it and reused the filter as it was new. I noticed there was no crush washer and didn't see the o-ring so I added an aluminum crush washer. All was well but after a test drive I noticed the oil level was too high again so I bought a new filter and started over. After draining the oil I somehow stripped the drain plug hole threads too badly to repair with a tap. Yikes! This is not just an oil pan, its a freakin swing arm I had ruined. I bought a larger drain plug (M14) and tapped the drain hole. Added a nylon washer and some thread sealer made for oil drain plugs and it seems to be holding. Wondering if I will need to use an o-ring or stick with the washer. Can't believe I did this or that the drain is in such a soft metal.

 

[Enemy Zero]

Unfortunately this is a very common problem. Timesert is going to be you best bet for repairing it. I don't know the number you'll need right off the top of my head but I know they work and many people on here have done them many times as well.

As far as oil, it has to be checked hot (operating temperature) and on the sidestand. Make sure you aren't doing it cold and upright. Hopefully this helps. If no one else pops up I'll go get my kit and post the part number for you.

Edit: Part number is 0122A. Comes with everything you'll need to do the repair. Oh and congrats on the new bike. Its a great one and I'm sure once this is sorted, you'll love it.

 

[TPEHAK]

26-29 ft-lbs (35-39 Nm) for engine oil drain plug. Use LOCTITE 565 PST Thread Sealer.
14-30 ft-lbs (19-40.7 Nm) for transmission oil drain plug. Use LOCTITE 565 PST Thread Sealer.
84-108 in-lbs (9.5-12.2 Nm) for inspection cover and for chain inspection cover screws.
36-48 in-lbs (4-5 Nm) for chin fairing screws. Use LOCTITE 271 (red).

O-Rings N 013 (AS568 standart): inside diameter 10.82 mm (0.426 in or 7/16"), crossection 1.78 mm (0.7 in or 1/16").

If you overfilled with oil, use plastic bottle and elastic tube from clear material mounted on the bottle with insulating tape and suck some oil.

All stuff you can buy in Home Depot.

 

[theMelvster6]

DO NOT....I REPEAT!! DO NOT TORQUE THE OIL DRAIN PLUG TO 29FT LBS...the manual is wrong!! People end up stripping the threads because of this!! If you torque it, stay closer to the primary plug 14-16 ft lbs. It is the same plug! I've always bottomed out the plug on the o-ring til it's snug and give it a nice bump with ny Palm. I have never stripped or had an oil leak at the drain plug!

 

[oh9bolt]

^Exactly

I dont see why people use torque wrenches on a oil drain plug.

[up][up]

 

[Enemy Zero]

26-29 ft-lbs (35-39 Nm) for engine oil drain plug. Use LOCTITE 565 PST Thread Sealer.
14-30 ft-lbs (19-40.7 Nm) for transmission oil drain plug. Use LOCTITE 565 PST Thread Sealer.

*******DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE THESE SPECS!!!********

They are absolutely wrong and will strip out your threads! They say these in the service manual and anyone that has followed these instructions will tell you the same thing; they stripped their drain plug.

Wrench it down until the O-ring seats and leave it be, usually til tight and a 1/4 turn more from my experience.

DO NOT....I REPEAT!! DO NOT TORQUE THE OIL DRAIN PLUG TO 29FT LBS...the manual is wrong!! People end up stripping the threads because of this!! If you torque it, stay closer to the primary plug 14-16 ft lbs. It is the same plug! I've always bottomed out the plug on the o-ring til it's snug and give it a nice bump with ny Palm. I have never stripped or had an oil leak at the drain plug!

Follow this advice. I repeat again. ******PUT THE TORQUE WRENCH DOWN WHEN TIGHTENING YOUR DRAIN PLUG*******

 

[user_deleted]

^^^^ [up]

 

[Retrax]

Red,

Don't feel too bad. I almost did the same thing that many others have done. I usually follow torque specs for everything because if I don't, things fall off or I tighten them too much and break them. I got lucky and found a similar thread like this here on buelxb. I would have followed the service manual otherwise.

As mentioned, the timesert would be the best fix.

 

[red09low]

Thanks for the info. Wasn't aware of the timesert so if my fix doesn't hold I'll definitely get one. Noticed they are available at Amazon. Have to admit that I almost never use my torque wrench. Never had a bike that shakes like this one so will start using loctite as recommended.

 

[JustinMT]

LOL at anybody who actually torques their drain plugs.

 

[vve are the end]

I understand why people would torque considering things tend to vibrate loose on Buells. I am particularly paranoid about drain plugs and oil filters coming loose but you can feel that those plugs would easily strip out under that kind of pressure.