Newbie about to do some maintenance

[optomist]

Cooter knows something about T-shirts, I hear.

Opto

 

[Hossman]

Congrats on the bike where at in Georgia are you?

Thank you! East Cobb.

 

[Hossman]

I just got a bunch of gaskets for the bike from the previous owner, my uncle. There is a slow leak of oil onto the top of the transmission case. My uncle suspects that it is the gasket between the starter motor and the engine. Makes sense to me. How difficult is it to replace that gasket? How would y'all recommend I clean up all the road grime and oil on top of the transmission case? It is very unsightly.

 

[Cooter]

There isn't a gasket there. Theres an o-ring, but be wary! Has the starter been replaced?

There are non-OE starters listed on e-bay and such that have the wrong (unsealed) bearing in the starters nosecone. This will cause the primary oil to flow through the starter and onto the valley between the jugs, especially at high RPM. Is the oil coming out of the drip hole at the bottom back of the starter case?

Get a manual download for free at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com for step-by-step. You have to remove the primary cover to get to the starter bolts.

 

[Hossman]

There isn't a gasket there. Theres an o-ring, but be wary! Has the starter been replaced?

There are non-OE starters listed on e-bay and such that have the wrong (unsealed) bearing in the starters nosecone. This will cause the primary oil to flow through the starter and onto the valley between the jugs, especially at high RPM. Is the oil coming out of the drip hole at the bottom back of the starter case?

Get a manual download for free at Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com for step-by-step. You have to remove the primary cover to get to the starter bolts.

This bike has only had 1 owner and I’m pretty sure he would’ve mentioned that he replaced the starter. He’s family.

 

[Hossman]

For the primary as a rule of thumb. One quart out- one quart in. Through the 2 fastener cover. You could through the 3 fastener cover, but that would be tricky at best. Get the book from the link that the Rider of Silver provided.

Also, be careful when tightening the drain plug on the swingarm. Just enough to slightly compress the o ring. Do not tighten to the factory spec in the book.

How to video here for changing the oil. DO NOT TORQUE THE DRAIN PLUG ON THE SWINGARM. 26-29 FT pounds is "a bit" excessive, and can strip the threads of the swingarm. A helicoil kit will set you back about $130, not including having to replace that synthetic oil.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMuEHcP6iws

Wow! I tightened the drain plugs today on the oil tank and primary. All it took was a half turn from finger tight until it was very tight. Even less on the primary drain plug. I can see how torquing them down with a torque wrench would strip the threads.

 

[njloco]

Some of the torque specs are WRONG ! There is a list, it's around here somewhere.

 

[Hossman]

20W50 is fine. I live on an island west of Seattle and ride year round w/20W50. When I purchased my first Buell the dealer told me to use 20W50 year round. I used Mobil-1 one time. The engine clattered loudly and made all kinds of mechanical noise. In 49 years of riding that is the only time that happened. I replaced the oil and filter after only 150 miles or so, couldn't stand listening to what I perceived as destructive noises.

You know, I notice a little more noise, but I think that's just because you said something! Lol. I changed the oil on Christmas Eve with the 20w-50 stuff. I'm glad I got all the metal shavings out! I started the bike this morning, 35 degrees Fahrenheit outside. I heard intermittent clatter but it didn't sound "destructive" or "loud". I would assume I'm good to go. I do need to adjust idle, because it idles around 800-900 when it's warming up. I help it a little for 10 seconds, then let it warm up for a minute or two. After it warms up, with riding, it idles about 1000-1050. Thick oil and cold temps!!

Make sure to check the bolt holding the kickstand, there is a new and improved one available. As mentioned above, be very careful with the drain plugs, good and snug does it ! Be very careful not to over fill the swing arm with engine oil, the level is checked while leaned on the kickstand. Remove and clean all grounds, no matter what they look like also apply an anti-corrossive.

Welcome to the board.

After changing the oil, I let the bike idle for a few minutes. Checked the swing arm dip stick. It was right on the bottom "Full" line. I was careful to add 2.5 quarts exactly. When the oil had 2000 miles on it, it was about a penny's thickness below the Full line. Checked it again after riding around. No issues. I've read that you're supposed to check the oil while the bike is warm. Thank you for your help.

 

[user_deleted]

I do need to adjust idle, because it idles around 800-900 when it's warming up. I help it a little for 10 seconds, then let it warm up for a minute or two. After it warms up, with riding, it idles about 1000-1050.

most all 2003-2007 XB's act like this. nature of the beast. NO adjustment required.


I've read that you're supposed to check the oil while the bike is warm.
there is ONE correct procedure that provides consistent and accurate readings...and THIS is it:
1-motor/oil MUST be warm. that means you can feel a bit of warmth to your bare hand when touching the swingarm area near the dipstick reservoir.
2-immediately AFTER riding and feeling warmth as per #1....shut bike off. dismount....bike MUST BE on its sidestand and parked on level surface....fetch a rag or paper towel....remove dip-stick assembly....wipe clean....AND NOW CHECK.
3-this is the ONLY procedure that provides consistently accurate readings.
NOTE: as these bikes continue to age gracefully i'm seeing yet more quirks arise. a dip-stick with a severe curve or bend to the plastic gradient portion one of these quirks. if yours is afflicted with that ailment use a heat gun and straighten it best you can. a curved one will NOT provide an accurate oil level reading.

 

[Hossman]

I do need to adjust idle, because it idles around 800-900 when it's warming up. I help it a little for 10 seconds, then let it warm up for a minute or two. After it warms up, with riding, it idles about 1000-1050.

most all 2003-2007 XB's act like this. nature of the beast. NO adjustment required.


I've read that you're supposed to check the oil while the bike is warm.
there is ONE correct procedure that provides consistent and accurate readings...and THIS is it:
1-motor/oil MUST be warm. that means you can feel a bit of warmth to your bare hand when touching the swingarm area near the dipstick reservoir.
2-immediately AFTER riding and feeling warmth as per #1....shut bike off. dismount....bike MUST BE on its sidestand and parked on level surface....fetch a rag or paper towel....remove dip-stick assembly....wipe clean....AND NOW CHECK.
3-this is the ONLY procedure that provides consistently accurate readings.
NOTE: as these bikes continue to age gracefully i'm seeing yet more quirks arise. a dip-stick with a severe curve or bend to the plastic gradient portion one of these quirks. if yours is afflicted with that ailment use a heat gun and straighten it best you can. a curved one will NOT provide an accurate oil level reading.

Thanks for the info. Yeah, that is how I checked the oil.

 

[njloco]

Your not supposed to help these bikes idle and your not supposed to blip the throttle which, sounds like your doing ? I would think you might get a bit more noise at 35 degrees if your using 20w50 weight oil, even if it's synthetic. I'm pretty sure one of the guys here recommended, like a 10w40 or 15w40 for winter temps ?