One more ? On 03 9r... False neutral

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Knutz

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Joined
Oct 3, 2013
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Ok , from my previous experience with buells I know full well that these transmissions aren't as smooth as most sportbikes. I'm fine with that. But mine seems excessively bad when going from 1st to 2nd or even when down shifting from 2nd to 1st. Sometimes it falls right unit to gear but most times it is really bad, I'm talking a little bit of grinding noise well I'm not sure I would call it a little bit I'd say it's more than that followed by plenty of false neutrals.

I have previous experience with buells (albeit 10 years ago and an X1) but this is way worse than anything I can remember.

If anybody has any suggestions on things I should look at. I would greatly appreciate any tips.
 
knutz: this is engine and primary/trans architecture dating back to 1957 so clearly an XB trans will never shift as buttery-smooth as a modern japbike or beemer....but with the right adjustments, correct primary lube, and shifting style you can come close on the "smoothness" scale. correct clutch-pack and cable adjustment critical....1 quart of 20-50 Amsoil cycle oil works best for me (Castrol act-evo 20-50 also great) as primary fluid....NEVER sit at a traffic light or stopped longer than 5 seconds or so with the bike in 1st gear and the clutch disengaged.....on cold start after bike has been sitting over-nite or longer, try and paddle with your feet to get the bike moving as you engage 1st gear to avoid "clunk". all these things add to clutch and trans longevity. always shift briskly from 1st to 2nd and when down-shifting from 2nd to 1st you MUST blip throttle and match engine revs to wheel speed or you'll eventually be splitting the cases to replace trans components.
 
Primary chain adjustment is important as well...I was having multiple missed shifts from 1st to 2nd gear especially when the fluids would get nice and warm. I have ASV adjustable levers on my bike, and for me it was adjusting the levers to find that sweet spot in the clutch engagement/disengagement.
 
NEVER sit at a traffic light or stopped longer than 5 seconds or so with the bike in 1st gear and the clutch disengaged.....

I am a complete noob to motorcycles and transmissions in general. Could you explain why this is bad? The guy who sold me the bike didn't mention this. At the MSF course they recommended staying in gear in-case a car does not stop behind you (so you can get away quicker).

I sit at almost every red light in 1st, with the clutch held in.. Should I shift into N when I am at lights instead? I really hope I haven't done damage.
 
am a complete noob to motorcycles and transmissions in general. Could you explain why this is bad? The guy who sold me the bike didn't mention this. At the MSF course they recommended staying in gear in-case a car does not stop behind you (so you can get away quicker).

knutz: MSF courses are fabulous but keep in mind that the bulk of the info given is to protect you the rider and not necessarily to promote cycle and component longevity. having said that when you sit still for prolonged periods with clutch disengaged and cycle in gear you do 3 things: you compress the outer sleave of the clutch cable (the inner cable does NOT stretch contrary to popular opinion), you put additional strain on the primary cover ramp housing, and you compress the diaphrahm clutch spring. you will not cause terminal damage to any trans or motor components but you're just adding additional strain if you will to these components i mentioned. i have found thru the years that watching your mirrors when stopped for oncoming traffic behind you is a necessary riding skill worth acquiring along with checking all turn signals and brake light bulb before setting sail. but in the rare instance that you would need to escape from a potential imminent "rear ender" i would apply clutch, engage 1st, and make my move. the whole process doesn't consume more than a second to perform but again, it's personal preference and ride in a manner that is comfortable for you.
 
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