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drunkinshooter

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Joined
Jun 15, 2008
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So I got the paint finished and the guy put a very thin coat of clear on it (ran a lil bit) But when the airbrush got to it he said the clear coat was severely affecting the airbrushing so he gave me the pieces back to take the clear coat of and the guy that painted it is no longer open. So it is now up to me to get the clear off with my very limited body experience so I am on asking for advice on how to get the clear off without ruining the paint. It was 350 for the quart I know its not to horribly expensive but I don't want to do it again. so what do you think, what grit, wet, dry sand, I don't know what the best way is.
 
Yea thats going to be a PITA, if its real thin you could wet sand it out but your going to have to be very careful not to go all the way threw. You need to get a soft wet sanding block our your going to put rails and finger groves in the paint. I would say 1000 grit but I dont know how thick it is. When your sanding you should be able to see when your getting threw the the clear. Just be very careful and go slow or impatiences will get the best of you.

Is it just the drips that are the problem?
 
did you mean $3.50 for the quart of paint? If so just repaint it. It will be less of a PITA than trying to sand the clear off.

Why not just try wetsanding and if you gothrough then you have to repaint anyways

Goood luckk
 
normally if you wet sand it like gator says, you don't have to remove all the clearcoat to succesfully airbrush it.

you just need to get it matt (get the shine off)
 
I wouldnt go any heavier than 600 grit wet/dry paper. Take your time, then go over it with a light 1000 grit to make it very smooth and pretty..[up][cool]
 
Yea like everyone else said nothing heavier than 600 i would start with 1200 wet sand and if its not getting down to were you like it to be go down to 1000 but deff wet sand. Also make sure you clean it of well before you start because if there is dirt or anything on it it will put a deep scratch on it. +1 on the sanding block make sure it is soft and do long strokes when sanding it will keep it even, and sand at like a 45 degree angle both ways to keep from making ripples. Its not as hard as most people think it too be just take your time and be patient.
 
Well if you have to just reclear it and the run is not that big just go ahead and scotch brite it with the red stuff and then apply more clear. If you sand it with just 1000 or 1200 and then try to apply more clear then there is a very good chance that it will not stick the surface will be too smooth. I found that the red scotch brite will leave heavy enough scratches for the clear to adhere to but they wont be too heavy where as the clear wont cover them up. All you have to do is make sure there is no shiny at all left on the parts before you reshoot. I have done plenty of custom painting since that is part of our business so if you have any other questions let me know.
 
^^ I agree. Scotch brite pad is the way to go.

I think Matter should chime in. He's the airbrush man.
 

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