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Polished (De-glazed) rotors. Re-visited!!!

Buellxb Forum

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Jobe Zeebuh

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2010
Messages
1,528
O.K. Gentlemen. These are Extremelow's rotors. I sanded them with a palm sander to get the residue off caused by ceremic brake pads. The residue can be clear and appear to have ridges. My cure for this is to take a 80-100 grit sanding disk and go to town. Make sure to sand evenly. Wax on wax off!. Then move to a 120-220grit. The sand paper will clog up quick from the resin. I go through 10 discs per 2 rotors. You can polish them or buff them to. (Optional)

Dirty front rotor before
8587_20110214121818_L.jpg


Width of rotors before
8587_20110214121835_L.jpg


Dirty rear rotor
8587_20110214121844_L.jpg


Cleaned up rotor. Same size just no glazing.

8587_20110214121913_L.jpg


More shots of after. Not perfect but this will extend the life of your rotors for smoother braking. I learned this from a old timer. Just trying to pass it on. THIS MAY OR MAY NOT BE SAFE AND MAY VOID ANY FACTORY WARRENTY'S.

8587_20110214121924_L.jpg


8587_20110214121938_L.jpg


8587_20110214122026_L.jpg
 
I have considered something like this myself, I was thinking if I put the entire wheel in a lathe at work (to ensure even surface exposure) and applied an 80 - 100 grit DA sander to end with a completely random and even finish (for the most part)

Then I remembered... that on a race bike MX or GP once the rotors are worn they cut them in half to ensure that they never end up on another bike. Motorcycle rotors do not have a "second life" engineered into them like their cager counterparts.

Just my two cents, but I still consider it every time I look @ $500.00 wave rotors lol.
 
How do you jack the pics up??? Email me the originals and I will fix them so they can be seen.

From the looks of it they appear to have just been cleaned [up], but the real answers will be once I get them and have a chance to test them out.
 
I was thinking if I put the entire wheel in a lathe at work (to ensure even surface exposure) and applied an 80 - 100 grit DA sander to end with a completely random and even finish

That would be even better. I would have done this but I dont have a lathe. Yet....
 
when you do get a lathe you expect to have one with a big enough swing for a motorcycle wheel. do you realize how big a lathe with a 17" swing is? not to mention if you plan to leave the tire on.
 
I can just get a reverse chuck for a normal lathe. I have it all planned out already. Just gotta talk my old buddie down on his lathe. If I get It I could pump out shlodes of rotors for a nominal price. Save tons in the long run on new rotors. Or. You could just by a wave rotor. They are nice.
 
ok, i wasnt asking about how you were going to chuck the wheel but it sounds like you plan on chucking just the rotor. w/e man. im just saying you will need a big ass lathe to swing a 17" diameter anything. You cant just get a different chuck to turn larger objects. There is a relationship between the size of a part you can turn and the height of the center of the spindle to the bed of the lathe. its called the swing and is the primary way lathes are sized.

imo a blanchard grinder would be a much better way to resurface these rotors. i mean since you are buying a $10k-$30k lathe you might as well get one of those too.

edit:before you say anything i realize the rotor is a few inches smaller than 17" but the previous talk was mounting the whole wheel. which is very possible although chucking the wheel would be interesting.
 
Why isn't it polished? I thought that was the whole point of xtreme sending you the old rotors...so he can test them after?
 
I feel like I'm on a roller coaster at the beginning and I'm at the top.... putting my hands up in the air as it aims down and starts to pick up speed. Ready?? HERE WE GOOOO!!!!!
 
okay so all of a sudden it's technically acceptable to sand a rotor now we're considering putting them on a lathe? not to be captain obvious, but i'm sure it is plain and has been said before, that all rotors have serviceable limits . and in my opinion(a multi-certified tech) you're a changing friction properties when you "sand" the rotor down. creating new gouges in the rotor which will be filled with used brake media quicker.

this is the first post i am putting on this thread and the last one.

Attempt At Your Own Risk
 
Man i thought you was going to get the rotors all polished and pretty?

Also two washers next to the rotor is not the best gage of thickness get yourself a pair of calipers. (and no not the ones that hold your brake pads...)
 
Man i thought you was going to get the rotors all polished and pretty?

That would require going in a 1/32 on both sides. I did this to my front. Works great. But I did remove the small thin square washers as the rotor was loose with them. Some people question this method. That is why I decided to just remove the glazing. If the glazing is removed from both the pads and the rotors and smoothed with 1000 grit you will notice smoother braking.

This process is tedious. It is for people that just want to get some extra life out of there rotors. I am not selling this service. However I will help anyone with low cash flo that want's to get there Buell up and running and has limited funds or shitty dirty rotors. Just pay for material and shipping!

you're a changing friction properties when you "sand" the rotor down.

This is true and Buttrfingrz is right. I might ad that I am just removing the glazing and any small burrs that cause bouncing in braking. I can sand and polish to a mirror finish. But that is more for show. Not go.
;)
 
I will de-glaze 10 people's rotors for a test run. Just pay shipping both ways. Please note. I will not de-glaze a rotor that has be badly damaged or that is just unsafe anymore. I will return it as is if that's the case.
 
Simple green and stainless steel wool has always done the same for me....and I haven't removed any material form the rotor...
 
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