Question for the stunters.

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Thaloc

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Jun 23, 2008
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So...I really dont have any friends that ride, so I dont have anyone to ask advice from other than you guys. And as you guys ride Buells also id prolly rather have your advice over some Rice-Rider. Anyhow. Iv really been getting alot better at keeping my wheelies going for a bit but I still cant figure out the balance issue when shifting from first to second. I either get to the top of first, and the gear tops out so my front end drops or as I shift I dont have have that pull anymore and the front end drops. I know shifting while in the wheelie is the key to keeping it going, im just having problems. And all the youtube vids are just garbo cuzz they talk about shift ranges of 11k revs+ and that obviously wont work for us. So any advice into keeping that wheelie going or what I should be doing for my second and then third gear shifts would be greatly appreciated. Also how do you guys get the nose up at highway speeds? only thing iv seen is put your feet on the passenger pegs, slip it, and yank HARD. And im a bit wearing of yanking my bars hard at highway speeds. I know some will have a problem with this post"Why stunt and chance messing up such a beautifull machine" blahblahblah.... No bike looks as good as a Buell and on that same note no bike looks as good gliding on just the back tire:p Guess im just young, dumb, and full of....stunts...ya


Edit: On a side note, anyone have any good stunt equipment they advise? I plant on buying the PowerWorx Stunt cage unless there is a better one. You think i should get axel sliders? What bar ends? Fork sliders? Swing arm sliders?
 
if you can pull off a clutchless shift that should do the trick. the ricers are easier to do this on but I think you will have to master this before you can make it.
 
Nahh, im against no clutch shifts. If you dont know exactly what your doing you put too much wear and tear on your clutch/tranny. And im pretty sure on Buells you cant no clutch out of 1st cuzz its a straight cut gear.
 
If you haven't gotten it yet, you won't find a secret formula from somebody else. You have to get used to the balance of your bike. Keep practicing both slow and faster speeds. Practice doing really slow wheelies where you are nearly standing still. That really gives you a feel of the bikes balance as well as brake and throttle response. I'm not too hip on clutchless shifting. Practice makes perfect :)
 
Lefox said it..."Ride a buell, use the clutch"

Apparently buells don't have the feature that jap bikes have called "easy clutch" or something like that.
 
about cages, powers is the only one that make them there ok but after a couple hard drops you break front isolator mount. for bars i would go with vortex clip ons, cus the clip on bars are alot cheaper and easier to bend back than the buell stock stuff , axle sliders i recomend for the back otherwise youll **** up your swing arm from lowsides. if you want easier wheelies convert to chain 20 in front 69 in back and you will be able to pull highway wheelies easier, but you will lose top speed. believe it or not some of my stunt riding buddys say the buell has a big balance point and its easy to get to. i fall more than i land stuff ,still learnin
 
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here is my busted ass buell
 
I can't shift in a wheelie on my bike. It just isnt' smooth enough. My buddy on his R1 on the other hand can. I've seen him put it up in a wheelie at 100 and dissapear.

Part of the trick to wheelies is getting it up to the balence point. Like sitting in a chair tipping back. That weightless moment. Have to cover the rear brake though. The limeted RPM range of oure bikes does make it difficult. And it seems the weight is on the front tire. I wheelie mine a bit but it isn't realy my thing. There are other bikes i've had (JAPS) that are easier.
 
ok I can help you here I think. The thing with balance point wheelies is that as soon as you think you have the balance point you can go back about 6 more inches. So it feels like your high but you are really not. The key to getting a wheelie longer isnt always shifting up. you could sit in first and do long slow wheelies with some brake work. I still have to get the brake thing down because its scary once you actually hit your balance point. Just keep this in mind.. your actual balance point is when you can keep a constant speed in a wheelie. If you run out of gear that means you have not got the bike high enough yet.

Like i said .. i have not been able to get the bike high enough because I get scared. I do shift gears in wheelies but what I do is

Get up to 20 mph in first with a easy slip of clutch..dont pop it or you might go over backwards or break your belt.

Get the front end up til you feel pretty high then hit the gas a little more to bring it up a little higher and shift real quick like. but make sure you dont gun the throttle after you shift or you could pave the road with your ass.

Its all about starting small and working your way up unless you dont care if you crash.

So always cover the brake and if the bike gets up too high lightly ride the rear brake.. dont slam it or you will have other problems. I think the easiest way to find the true balance point would be to ride staggered.. right foot on peg covering brake and left foot on passenger peg. keep your body and arms somewhat limp and allow you to feel the bike.

Once you can get the front end up and stay at a pretty constant speed you can advance even further and be more comfortable.

I learned with sit down wheelies but other people learn other ways.

Just get that front end up higher and always cover brake! To shift well make sure bike is up high enough and you will have no problems with front end coming down.. just the front end can land on top of you when you flip backwards..

MOST IMPORTANT INFO IS!!! ( COVER THE REAR BRAKE )
because when you get up there and hit balance point you are verry close to the *Point of no return* where engine braking or foot/hand brake is needed to get the front back down.

Im no pro and am still learning but this is basic info to help you out. Just need to get some big balls and use the brake.. i still have not got that high where i needed it. But I have missed 2nd and came down pretty hard.

This post is getting long but if you want an easier way to learn longeer wheelies.. pop it up in 2nd gear.. you can go much further but you go faster :)

Have fun and be safe! I hope you wear gear too.. at least a helmet and jacket..

Trill

*** FORGOT TO ADD ***
Stunters lower the rear tire airpressure if the wheelie gets squirley on you when you get it to 12 oclock .

Something like 15-20 psi i think.

For more info go to http://www.stuntlife.com
and read there.

Good luck once again.
 
i keep my back tire around 20-25 , it gives you more surface area on wheelies and like trill said it keeps it more stable .and the front like 30.
 
Dave it happen here in s.e. tx. around where hurricane ike just got finished with. It happens way too much that's for sure.[sad]
 
Trill: Great advice bud I really appreciate it. I get some decent powerband wheelies in 1st but where i like to wheelie is shifting into 2nd slip it a little above the shift point and bring her up. I want to be able to ride a nice smooth wheelie but when it comes to other **** im good. I dont wanna **** my bike up at all.

Bill: I rode dirt all growing up in fresno, its what made me want to get a street bike, but honestly I cant even compare the two. Dirt is so light and the wheelie flies in the air if you think about it. My Buell on the other hand i really have to work at a bit, and, well dirt bikes are sposed to be ditched/dropped/scratched/smashed. If you see a guy out in the dunes with an emaculate dirt he aint riding hard enough. My buell on the other hand doesnt deserve a ****** scratch for LIFE!

I appreciate all the advice guys, im just taking it slow and easy, other than coming down kinda hard iv had no real scares. Iv got her pretty close to 12 oclock once and it did scare me a bit, but it was also the longest wheelie iv ever rode so...prolly right about where I should be, just getting past that adrenalin ****. Ya I wear full gear, minus riding pants. titanium woven TimaxII jacket, leather gloves, helmet, boots.
 
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