Reduced output, low heat alternator kit

[poinographer]

Does anyone here have one of these?
http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125cr/reduced-output-low-heat-alternator-kit.html

I am very curious to know about the difference(s) from OEM. In particular, the exact location of the additional cooling orifice. I'm a machinist, so unless the orifice is an elaborately cast feature, I'm confident I could replicate it myself. Also, what specs a custom-rewound stator would need to provide the same result.

The EBR price is pretty steep.

I'm also wondering how this set-up would perform in day-to-day, non-racing use. Even if I needed to put my battery on a charger between rides (and/or carry jumper cables) I think I would have more peace of mind than the OEM stator/charging system provides...

 

[Mike Van V]

Funny...
I suggested an oil bath years ago..! Early 2010. It's posted somewhere on the "Bad" board..!
And yea, to do it right, I'd guess at least two, maybe three oil jets aimed at the stator would do well. One at 10 o'clock and one at 2 o'clock for starters.

And yea, bungs for fittings should be welded into the cover...aimed right at the stator.

You also NEED to use small lines and small "jets" to keep the oil bath to a minimum.
Not because of anything but the general loss of oil pressure to the rest of the engine.

I'd use an oil pressure gauge to see exactly what the engine has to offer, weld in a coupla bungs and add supply lines with....maybe .050".060" holes for rotor oil supply.

Temperature tape and or crayons are available to monitor cover temperatures. A temp sensor gun will always work.

The EBR kit...is mainly..as stated for racing. Not the street. It lowers the amperage output too far for good reliability on the street. Stop at Crispy Cream and the battery may not be up to turning the crankshaft..!

Mike

 

[RT Performance]

The output is same as 2008
Orfice. Is I. The center hub I think.
don't have a 1125 anymore but good luck the race use only tag in mandated by ebr's. No compete contract

 

[popeye13433]

RT you sold the 1125? whats your new toy?

 

[poinographer]

Thanks for responses, folks.

RT, can you clarify what you wrote about the orifice, please? Do you mean the center hub of the rotor, or the stator?

MikeVanV, judging by the photo on the EBR website, I don't think the oil cooling is as nearly elaborate as your idea, because I don't see (or read of) any new oil supply lines.

Does my/the 2009 OEM rotor look like the reduced output rotor in the link (i.e. with the same 12 holes as shown)?

 

[RT Performance]

Posted: 04 Jan 2012 14:20 [?]




RT you sold the 1125? whats your new toy?

2010 Kawasaki zx10r Black Spark paint. Photos in my album.

Thanks for responses, folks.

RT, can you clarify what you wrote about the orifice, please? Do you mean the center hub of the rotor, or the stator?

MikeVanV, judging by the photo on the EBR website, I don't think the oil cooling is as nearly elaborate as your idea, because I don't see (or read of) any new oil supply lines.

Does my/the 2009 OEM rotor look like the reduced output rotor in the link (i.e. with the same 12 holes as shown)?

Theres alreadry a oil feed hole in the stator hub spline shaft.
Thats what the new rotor alings with.
Theres pics some where on bad web i can't seem to find them .
but there there some where and they where nice up close photos of it.
I am 99% sure the rotor they are using is the smaller 2008. Not the larger magnetic 2009.

Theres quit a few guy running this kit already and not having issues wich means there will be some 2008 showing up on Ebay. I think i have a 2009 core stator But the wires are clipped on it but if some one whants to fix up a spare (needs to be rewound) shot me a pm.

 

[JWoody]

heres pics some where on bad web i can't seem to find them .
but there there some where and they where nice up close photos of it.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/658988.html?

-J[cool]

 

[poinographer]

Thanks for that link, JWoody! Odd that the people who actually bought the EBR kit did not receive rotors with the orifice, though...

Anyway, the orifice in the rotor looks tiny. Once I get the system apart, and assuming I can orient those pictures to what I see, then I'll try drilling mine.

For those of you that have removed the ignition cover, do you use the alignment dowel tools (mentioned in the manual) to put the cover back on? I don't mean the short locator pins that align the ignition cover gasket, I mean the longer (temporary) dowel TOOLS that keep everything lined up as the magnetism begins to attract the stator to rotor.

 

[Mike Van V]

Yes..I figured this was common knowledge by now.
The "race" rotor/stator is just the 08 parts..!

Mike

 

[poinographer]

So, the '08 rotor had the orifice, or not? Seems odd that it would in '08, but then would not in '09/10.

 

[RT Performance]

The pieces are 08 but they machine the ofrice.
yes get some longer bolts and cut the heads off for alignment.
When the magnetic field comes in it sucks it right out of your hand.

 

[Red Rock 1125]

As far as having a burnt rotor rewound, I read about looking into the 240 wire, but is there a known wind count that runs less amps with the 220 wire?

 

[poinographer]

Good question! I don't know.