Remove and Replace Oil Cooler Lines

[poinographer]

Has anyone removed the oil cooler supply and return lines from the ignition cover recently? I figure with all the stator/rotor work being done, this must be fairly common...

Is the special "Oil Line Remover" tool (listed in the manual as HD-46503) actually necessary to remove the clips from the line?

If not, is there another method you used?

 

[icecoldcoasty]

I'm interested in this as well. My fitting above the oil filter on the return line is leaking and I need to get it off to replace the gasket.

 

[anrkizm95]

i take it you have the newer lines.you dont need the tool a small pick or even a small nail will work fine.new clips can be purchased at your local chevy dealer.

 

[poinographer]

Thank you.

I am actually going to dive into this work tomorrow! It's been a long time gathering all the bits and pieces...

 

[poinographer]

I read the directions wrong. I didn't transfer the sprag clutch to the new rotor, so now it doesn't start. Dummy!

I'll go back in on Wednesday. At least now I'll know the little tricks of the job...

Hopefully I can re-use the rotor nut.

 

[poinographer]

Oh, and the special oil cooler line remover tool is not needed. Patience, a pick, and a needle-nosed pliers does the job.

 

[poinographer]

Everything is installed and bike is running well. Charging over 13 volts continuously, even when fans kick on. Stoked!

Some hints/comments for those of you who do the stator/rotor job:

1) When you remove the ignition cover I recommend you send two "messenger" wires through the wire harness to pull the cables back through. That way, in case your messenger slips off the cable (cough) you have another and you're not struggling for 2 hours to re-lead that cable.

2) A regular gear puller can remove the rotor. It is not necessary to buy the rotor removal tool.

3) Same with the oil cooler lines; no need for the special tool.

4) Be sure to transfer the sprag clutch from your '09 stator to your new EBR stator! I overlooked that and had to re-route the cable, remove the oil cooler lines, open the ignition cover again, remove the rotor, re-torque, etc. Dumb. Plus, this second time is when the messenger wire came off the cable. D'oh!

5) I have already machined an oil orifice in the '09 rotor that I removed. A 1/4" end mill, a 1/32" ball mill to start the through hole, and a 1/32" drill do the job. It actually takes more time to set up on the machine than to actually make the cuts.

6) If you're interested in having an oil orifice machined into your '09 rotor, shoot me a PM and let's talk. I can't make a business out of this, and I certainly won't guarantee my work, but let's talk. It won't be hundreds of dollars like EBR...

 

[PonyXB12]

FOR FUTURE SEARCHERS

08 and up buell oil cooler fitting is jiffy tite style...
top O-ring HD part # 11110
Plug (threaded part that tightens into cooler) HD 26064-08
bottom O-ring HD 11290
clip that holds oil line into plug fitting HD 11408 or Dorman makes an assortment kit 800-801 that can be found at auto zone or napa or Oreileys or wherever...

 

[Bossanova]

This past Saturday, I had the top oil line pop off (or past) that clip on the oil cooler. It pumped 2 Qts of oil all over my left leg and rear tire in a matter of seconds. I almost went down in T10 at HMS in Miami as a result. There was no warning- no small leak before, just popped off.

Just mentioning this here... If you have these lines off of the cooler or off the side cover end; and removed them by digging them off with a pic, I highly suggest replacing them. I haven't looked in the service manual but it might even recommend replacing them.

 

[anrkizm95]

I had the top oil line pop off (or past) that clip on the oil cooler.

vibration can wear notches in the line and cause it to come out i check mine every few months.

 

[froader4life]

Wow that's crazy. I just made the kit for cosmetic reasons. I had no idea people have actually experienced failures with the stock line. My kit is made out of all high end racing/aerospace parts so I can gaurentee you would never have to worry about the above happening.

http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-1125CR/Problem-Solved-Check-this-out-Pictures

 

[hottschott]

vibration can wear notches in the line and cause it to come out i check mine every few months.

Sorry to resurrect this dead thread, but this exact problem happened to me, and spilled all my oil at a high rate of speed on the highway. Every square inch of my bike is now covered in oil. =( My oil line that goes into the oil cooler is the culprit as well and the end of it looks exactly like this.

My question:

Where can i find a replacement line? Im guessing it has to be specific because it has that lip. Does anyone know what this type of line is called? Auto parts store might carry it?

Thanks

*edit*

Forgot to mention, im on an 08 xb12stt, but my lines look exactly like the pics above. Even same little wear notches.

 

[ocgreenmachine]

Looks like part numbers for the lines are:

HS0009.AK - feed
HS0008.AK - return

Not sure for the fittings that screw into the oil pump.

 

[JeepinBueller]

You shouldn't need a special tool for these: when I did mine, I carefully used a small standard screwdriver (or a dental pick if you have one) and pulled the little C-clip out. Then you can carefully pull the line directly out of the fitting. Notice the 'carefully' sprinkled in there ... don't go hoss on it since, as stated above, the tapered lips the lines have are a bit fragile.

To install, I bent the C-clip slightly to close it a bit and make sure removal didn't bend it out, which wouldn't give it enough clamping force to stay install. Install the line straight in (you can watch the holes in the fitting to see when you have the lip inserted all the way) and insert the clip. Give it a yank to make sure she's good.