Reusing rotor bolts?

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Miami78

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Dec 7, 2009
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So getting ready to swap my wheels and read somewhere it's a good idea to use new bolts for the rotors and pully. Looked at ASB and the bolts/washers for both wheels are $100!! Is it really necessary to use new bolts? Are there any less expensive alternatives?
 
I've reused bolts on other bikes. Never pulled them off of my XB. I'd say you could probably reuse then, BUT I've noticed some of those kinds of bolts on by 2003 are excessively tight, and I know if I tried to pull them all there's a good chance I might need to replace one or two from the heads getting a little twisted. That's what happened when I tried to pull my front brake caliper the first time. Give it a shot but do it when you have a few days to spare incase you need to buy some new ones.
 
You can get the front bolt/washer from EBR. Not really sure if it can be used for the stock rotors but I'd ask them. It costs 41.00 as opposed to the 61 from ASB. Also check out LSHD1. They sell stock parts at 20% off MSRP.
 
I asked this same question to my local Buell dealership. They reuse them...as did I
 
I reused all hardware front and rear except 2 of the rotor bolts were destroyed durring removal. Everything else went smooth but before I knew it, I had a 1/2" breaker bad and a 3' pipe on the end. Still couldn't crack the loose. WTF..... I look up the torque specs and it wasent that high. Some more muscle and they start coming out. They(the rotor bolts) had so much loctite it was rediculas. I don't know it there was a machine malfunction or a new guy working tath day or what but..... Anyway yea there was a thread on here not too long ago and aperently the rear rotor bolts are stretch to torque(not sure the exact words) bolts. Only supposed to be used once. I checked em a couple times this summer and no problems with putting the old ones back in. Hope this helps
 
i reused mine when i ripped my bike apart last winter without a problem. just make sure you line the rotor up right, check the manual for the position, there should be a marker to line up with the schraeder valve. ond dont forget to use blue locktite
 
The only time I tried to pull the rear pulley and rotor off was when I was changing my tires. Before I could even get the 1st bolt to budge I could see my Torx bit starting to twist slightly so I just stopped there. They're not amazing quality bits, but they're not Harbor Freight part either, so I know there's something going on there. Someday if I need to I'll pull out the impact wrench and just try to yank them out.
 
Awesome, thanks for the info everyone! Will try reusing the bolts and keep a close eye on them to make sure I don't snap a head off.
 
I reused my bolts. Clean off everything....the threads, washers, and the springs. Go slow so that you do not strip the bolts out ,or the heads of the bolts. I uses the white loctite, only. The red won't hold because the heat ,the white is thread sealant and has higher heat resistance. Six months no problems.
 
White loctite? Hadn't even seen that one, I'll have to look into that.

I checked out the kit offered by EBR, it's only the front rotor kit and it is $20 less than the ASB kit, but it eliminates the float in the front rotor, which I think I would rather maintain. The kit for the front rotor, rear rotor, and pulley from ASB are what add up to $100, not just the front rotor kit.
 
I finally picked up a new rotor and some pads, and I know that the recommendation is to use new hardware. You can buy the kit for $40 at EBR, but I don't really need all of the peices, just the bolts right? Is there any reason I can't use either of these? I wouldn't assume the rear rotor or rear pulley bolts would be any different than the front rotor bolts, aside from possibly the length. I have no idea how long the front ones are to compare though. Any opinion on these?

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17054.html

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/17067.html
 
the hardware from ebr is completely different than the previous design. im not saying its not okay to use the previous method but just so you know its more than a couple bolts.
 
Yeah I saw the hardware setup was not the same between the 2. I plan on using most of the hardware, no reason to replace washers and spacers, I was just curious about replacing my actual bolts and keeping the rest.
 
Is it really necessary to use new bolts? 

I would get all new hardware with a new rotor including springs and shims. If I was just cleaning my rotor or polishing it then I would use the old hardware.
 
I replaced the spacers,bolts,springs etc. Bought through the dealer cheaper than several other places that I had priced. I do get a discount due to military. Kinda SHOCKED me on that.I saved the old stuff just in case.
 
Just so you know the manual says install new bolts, new springs, new washers & new drive bushings and it highlights the new every time to show it's importance.
 
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