TapRoot
Well-known member
2005 XB12r BUEGB
Pro Series Race map
K&N air filter
GPR Reverso Exhaust
LSL handle bar conversion kit
LSL frame sliders
Zero Gravity tinted windscreen
Pazzo racing levers
LED 12" strips under tail for blinkers
Slow blink Flasher 2-4 LED/ No resistors/ stock front blinkers
Breather hoses are T tapped to catch can. Both vent tubes still in air box
Redundant Grounding. #10 THWN starting from Battery box post-rear engine mount dog bone-top engine mount dog bone-rear coil bolt-front coil bolt-steering neck
8/18 James intake seals 5k
8/18 TPS 5k
8/18 Fuel injectors 5k
8/18 rebuilt fuel pump/regulator/filter and o rings 5k
8/18 relaces o2 sensor with (used)
NGK 9's 1k
8/18 Replaced coil (used)
Magnecor plug wires 8mm
New ignition/start/key switch relays (one blew out about 3 weeks ago)
Digital LCD battery voltage gauge
DMF Machining Primary fix for ramp
6/19 Alls Balls Wheel bearings front and rear 1k
6/19 Barnett clutch kit fibers & steels
Service Manual
ECM Spy
ECM Spy for Mono
Buelltooth
6/19 TKC 70 tires
Duralast Gold battery 220 CA, came with bike, says it's new in 2017, seems to have plenty of Juice
Mobil 1 20/50 both holes
93 octane always
Current mileage 24,XXXView attachment 12120
Electrician by trade, Poser part time mechanic on my own bikes, would and will rebuild engine over next winter myself and your help when needed and beside tires i've done 100% of the work. I have rebuilt metrics, worked on HD but this is my first Buell ( Selena, it's a love hate relationship )
I purchased the bike 8/2018 with 18,XXX and had the Pro Series pipe, air filter and map. Also the bike did not get ridden in over a year. Two days after purchase the bike started bucking and misfiring, so while doing my research and digging into the bike for the first time I couldn't believe how few parts there were. Thinking parts may become hard to find eventually and reading about some of the common trouble items I decided to just replace all that I could and have spare parts, there aren't many. Further digging led me to diagnostics through shorting out the connector and counting the flashes until my Buelltooth came in, unfortunately it was only stored trouble codes that I had created. After more research/ TPS resets and throwing parts at her I finally rebuilt the whole fuel pump ( Quantum ) including filter ( St. Paulie )and she came alive.
After countless hours of researching, trying 12 sets of plugs from the HD gold, HD platinum, HD originals, NGK 8's and NGK 9's, my bike likes the 9's gapped at .035. Same goes for the TPS reset, it took about 10 of them for me to find the sweet spot between bike temp, outside temp, warm up time, butterfly zeroing out, idle and AFV. Speaking of which, my AFV has never been at 100 and won't even stay running if I drop it that low. Replaced intake seals and as far as I can tell there are no leaks, I even capped off the CA EVAP nipple. The lowest I've been able to get my AFV down was 110, I bumped it up to 112 because it helps with steady throttle at that 2700-3200 location. Bike was running decent at this point and my only issues were starting and idling. I swear the first two days I had the bike it would fire up instantly, with the what looked to be original HD plugs. After fixing, it would take about 3 or 4 seconds on cold start up, lope idle until all 4 stages have be complete or as the timing retards but zero's out at 161* on the dot, sometimes it would die but fire right up again. Now when warm and left to sit over half hour it most of the time wont start up right away, takes 3-4 seconds, sometimes stall and die . If warm and sitting for a few minutes, it will start right up, seems to be a common issue with these. None the less I rode the bike for the season here in Massachusetts, garaged it in the winter but thought i knew better then all you Jedi's who told me not to start it in winter or freezing temps period. Plus what does a guy who obviously listens to way too much " Red Raider " know besides everything about Buells lol. So I would start it once a week, sometimes twice ( minimum 20 minutes never revved it when warming up ) and if I could get out just to run it I would, I mean I've been doing this for the past 20 years with different bikes including Harley and has always yielded great results until now, should have listened. All I did was fill up my catch can with moisture and create rust within the engine and plugs, this even happens when it's in the 40's, lesson learned.
Took off Buell Race pipe which shows very minimal surface corrosion but dent free as it was covered with an aftermarket full bottom lip fairing just exposing the two outlets, sounded the business but not much for performance. Swapped with GPR Reverso and kept Pro Series Race map the way it was, AFV remained at 112. Well not a day goes by where I don't research or read up on these Machines through the winter. Spring finally comes around and the bike is running decent until i'm left stranded when my primary case ramp lip lets go. Ordered through DMF and installed ( Great guy and Board member )custom plate after milling, replaced clutch plates with new ( original plates are still like new ). Now since I fixed my primary the bike hasn't stalled once when warming up, not that it did a lot before but there always seemed to be engine resistance when warming up and would just die out but since the fixed it warms up way smoother ( could be coincidence). Still when cold i can hold the starter for about 3-3.5 seconds or if I count the starter rotations noise I can count nine of them which I'm assuming is equal to about 3 full engine revolutions? Or I do the Lunaticfringe bump method and it seems to fire right up but sometimes if i let go too early on the second bump and it doesn't start it then takes a couple more seconds than it originally would have, if this makes sense. There are some mornings on the cold start where if it sits two days it starts up within a second or two but for the most part it's consistent with behavioral patterns. Beside this i have had the bike running flawlessly, idling perfect, minimal to no hesitation in the 3k rpm range and hasn't stalled since this season.
I'm extremely meticulous with this bike, changing oil every 2-2500 miles, clean the intake and TB along with wiping down any residue that may accumulate on my sensors and pivotal parts. With it being air cooled and seeing how fast the oil contaminates or gets dirty, figured it wouldn't hurt to change more often. I have never messed with the maps, they are still factory race. Personally I don't feel I can do a better job than Buell, plus it rides so nice and took me forever to get it back to where it was running beautifully. So the season started great, bought new tires, replaced front and rear wheel bearings ( Alls Balls, thanks to Lunaticfringe ) and up until yesterday about 5 minutes in to riding coming off a familiar off ramp I roll on entering the highway in third gear and about 75% throttle I get pop and a misfire, being right at the exit I immediately get off stop at Mobil, double check my fuel ( 3/4 full ) and top off with 93. This was not normal at all but chalked up as hopefully nothing. Fires right up and I get going again. Not even a mile in she is starting to buck and miss intermittently but not consistantly. Being only two miles from my house I return, check all grounds, connections, fuses, relays, battery terminals, plugs, wires, oil, everything. Slap it back together and try it again an hour later. Bike started as it should, idled fine so I took off. Same thing starts happening only getting worse, so i turn around and praying I at least get back home. When I initially turned around coming back home i could't get it to do it. Tried different throttle inputs but cant't replicate the symptoms, just random. Got back home, plugged the lap top in and saw my AFV was at 117 (112 is my normal). TPS was working as it should, temp was normal, ECM was communicating normally. This felt all too familiar so immediately I ordered another Quantum rebuild kit and P0121.02A8A O rings. When I originally pulled the original pump, i could see that the regulator seal blew out along with a horrible prime noise, so it was an obvious fix. Two days ago i started my bike and when the Pump primed I swear i heard a squishy sound instead of that high pitch and coincidentally these symptoms started a day later. When I heard that sound I immediately thought, " yup, that's not right "primed it again, sounds normal but weaker or lower pitch and this is where we are today. i got the pump out and all seems normal including wires and hoses, no obvious signs. I have not performed a pressure test, I have a fuel pressure tester kit but don't have the NPT connector, will order and make something up like Cooter and since I have it apart I will replace again anyway. Along with the Quantum kit i ordered an E2061 86-86 mustang fuel pump that'll be in in the morning which I'm going to try and hopefully keep the kit for a back up. Pump body O rings ( #20 ) are still good and tight but if they leak I will replace everything with the Quantum kit and spare the rest. So this is where I'm at and after thousands of posts it all seems to lead to a faulty fuel pump, which is showing the exact same symptoms as last time my pump failed. Just a side note, the Airtex or mustang pump has 52 psi opposed to the 45 psi Walbro puts out, i'm hoping this is fine for the pressure regulator? Unless someone has that's a definite no no too Daffy then I'll proceed with the replacement and report back with my findings.
I apologize for the short story.
Thanks for reading!
Pro Series Race map
K&N air filter
GPR Reverso Exhaust
LSL handle bar conversion kit
LSL frame sliders
Zero Gravity tinted windscreen
Pazzo racing levers
LED 12" strips under tail for blinkers
Slow blink Flasher 2-4 LED/ No resistors/ stock front blinkers
Breather hoses are T tapped to catch can. Both vent tubes still in air box
Redundant Grounding. #10 THWN starting from Battery box post-rear engine mount dog bone-top engine mount dog bone-rear coil bolt-front coil bolt-steering neck
8/18 James intake seals 5k
8/18 TPS 5k
8/18 Fuel injectors 5k
8/18 rebuilt fuel pump/regulator/filter and o rings 5k
8/18 relaces o2 sensor with (used)
NGK 9's 1k
8/18 Replaced coil (used)
Magnecor plug wires 8mm
New ignition/start/key switch relays (one blew out about 3 weeks ago)
Digital LCD battery voltage gauge
DMF Machining Primary fix for ramp
6/19 Alls Balls Wheel bearings front and rear 1k
6/19 Barnett clutch kit fibers & steels
Service Manual
ECM Spy
ECM Spy for Mono
Buelltooth
6/19 TKC 70 tires
Duralast Gold battery 220 CA, came with bike, says it's new in 2017, seems to have plenty of Juice
Mobil 1 20/50 both holes
93 octane always
Current mileage 24,XXXView attachment 12120
Electrician by trade, Poser part time mechanic on my own bikes, would and will rebuild engine over next winter myself and your help when needed and beside tires i've done 100% of the work. I have rebuilt metrics, worked on HD but this is my first Buell ( Selena, it's a love hate relationship )
I purchased the bike 8/2018 with 18,XXX and had the Pro Series pipe, air filter and map. Also the bike did not get ridden in over a year. Two days after purchase the bike started bucking and misfiring, so while doing my research and digging into the bike for the first time I couldn't believe how few parts there were. Thinking parts may become hard to find eventually and reading about some of the common trouble items I decided to just replace all that I could and have spare parts, there aren't many. Further digging led me to diagnostics through shorting out the connector and counting the flashes until my Buelltooth came in, unfortunately it was only stored trouble codes that I had created. After more research/ TPS resets and throwing parts at her I finally rebuilt the whole fuel pump ( Quantum ) including filter ( St. Paulie )and she came alive.
After countless hours of researching, trying 12 sets of plugs from the HD gold, HD platinum, HD originals, NGK 8's and NGK 9's, my bike likes the 9's gapped at .035. Same goes for the TPS reset, it took about 10 of them for me to find the sweet spot between bike temp, outside temp, warm up time, butterfly zeroing out, idle and AFV. Speaking of which, my AFV has never been at 100 and won't even stay running if I drop it that low. Replaced intake seals and as far as I can tell there are no leaks, I even capped off the CA EVAP nipple. The lowest I've been able to get my AFV down was 110, I bumped it up to 112 because it helps with steady throttle at that 2700-3200 location. Bike was running decent at this point and my only issues were starting and idling. I swear the first two days I had the bike it would fire up instantly, with the what looked to be original HD plugs. After fixing, it would take about 3 or 4 seconds on cold start up, lope idle until all 4 stages have be complete or as the timing retards but zero's out at 161* on the dot, sometimes it would die but fire right up again. Now when warm and left to sit over half hour it most of the time wont start up right away, takes 3-4 seconds, sometimes stall and die . If warm and sitting for a few minutes, it will start right up, seems to be a common issue with these. None the less I rode the bike for the season here in Massachusetts, garaged it in the winter but thought i knew better then all you Jedi's who told me not to start it in winter or freezing temps period. Plus what does a guy who obviously listens to way too much " Red Raider " know besides everything about Buells lol. So I would start it once a week, sometimes twice ( minimum 20 minutes never revved it when warming up ) and if I could get out just to run it I would, I mean I've been doing this for the past 20 years with different bikes including Harley and has always yielded great results until now, should have listened. All I did was fill up my catch can with moisture and create rust within the engine and plugs, this even happens when it's in the 40's, lesson learned.
Took off Buell Race pipe which shows very minimal surface corrosion but dent free as it was covered with an aftermarket full bottom lip fairing just exposing the two outlets, sounded the business but not much for performance. Swapped with GPR Reverso and kept Pro Series Race map the way it was, AFV remained at 112. Well not a day goes by where I don't research or read up on these Machines through the winter. Spring finally comes around and the bike is running decent until i'm left stranded when my primary case ramp lip lets go. Ordered through DMF and installed ( Great guy and Board member )custom plate after milling, replaced clutch plates with new ( original plates are still like new ). Now since I fixed my primary the bike hasn't stalled once when warming up, not that it did a lot before but there always seemed to be engine resistance when warming up and would just die out but since the fixed it warms up way smoother ( could be coincidence). Still when cold i can hold the starter for about 3-3.5 seconds or if I count the starter rotations noise I can count nine of them which I'm assuming is equal to about 3 full engine revolutions? Or I do the Lunaticfringe bump method and it seems to fire right up but sometimes if i let go too early on the second bump and it doesn't start it then takes a couple more seconds than it originally would have, if this makes sense. There are some mornings on the cold start where if it sits two days it starts up within a second or two but for the most part it's consistent with behavioral patterns. Beside this i have had the bike running flawlessly, idling perfect, minimal to no hesitation in the 3k rpm range and hasn't stalled since this season.
I'm extremely meticulous with this bike, changing oil every 2-2500 miles, clean the intake and TB along with wiping down any residue that may accumulate on my sensors and pivotal parts. With it being air cooled and seeing how fast the oil contaminates or gets dirty, figured it wouldn't hurt to change more often. I have never messed with the maps, they are still factory race. Personally I don't feel I can do a better job than Buell, plus it rides so nice and took me forever to get it back to where it was running beautifully. So the season started great, bought new tires, replaced front and rear wheel bearings ( Alls Balls, thanks to Lunaticfringe ) and up until yesterday about 5 minutes in to riding coming off a familiar off ramp I roll on entering the highway in third gear and about 75% throttle I get pop and a misfire, being right at the exit I immediately get off stop at Mobil, double check my fuel ( 3/4 full ) and top off with 93. This was not normal at all but chalked up as hopefully nothing. Fires right up and I get going again. Not even a mile in she is starting to buck and miss intermittently but not consistantly. Being only two miles from my house I return, check all grounds, connections, fuses, relays, battery terminals, plugs, wires, oil, everything. Slap it back together and try it again an hour later. Bike started as it should, idled fine so I took off. Same thing starts happening only getting worse, so i turn around and praying I at least get back home. When I initially turned around coming back home i could't get it to do it. Tried different throttle inputs but cant't replicate the symptoms, just random. Got back home, plugged the lap top in and saw my AFV was at 117 (112 is my normal). TPS was working as it should, temp was normal, ECM was communicating normally. This felt all too familiar so immediately I ordered another Quantum rebuild kit and P0121.02A8A O rings. When I originally pulled the original pump, i could see that the regulator seal blew out along with a horrible prime noise, so it was an obvious fix. Two days ago i started my bike and when the Pump primed I swear i heard a squishy sound instead of that high pitch and coincidentally these symptoms started a day later. When I heard that sound I immediately thought, " yup, that's not right "primed it again, sounds normal but weaker or lower pitch and this is where we are today. i got the pump out and all seems normal including wires and hoses, no obvious signs. I have not performed a pressure test, I have a fuel pressure tester kit but don't have the NPT connector, will order and make something up like Cooter and since I have it apart I will replace again anyway. Along with the Quantum kit i ordered an E2061 86-86 mustang fuel pump that'll be in in the morning which I'm going to try and hopefully keep the kit for a back up. Pump body O rings ( #20 ) are still good and tight but if they leak I will replace everything with the Quantum kit and spare the rest. So this is where I'm at and after thousands of posts it all seems to lead to a faulty fuel pump, which is showing the exact same symptoms as last time my pump failed. Just a side note, the Airtex or mustang pump has 52 psi opposed to the 45 psi Walbro puts out, i'm hoping this is fine for the pressure regulator? Unless someone has that's a definite no no too Daffy then I'll proceed with the replacement and report back with my findings.
I apologize for the short story.
Thanks for reading!
