Specialty tool questions

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Rhodium

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Jun 3, 2012
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Hello all,

I have a question about the "mainshaft locknut wrench" tool (part #: HD-94660-37B). I have read of many folks simply using a 1-7/8" socket to remove the nut, so what is "special" about the HD tool? It seems to just be a longer socket that spaces the breaker bar (or impact wrench, whatever is used to turn the socket) out from the bike. In some images I have seen that there is a second part to the tool used to center the socket, but I have also read about it being used without. So, what gives? Is this tool needed, or can I just use a standard 1-7/8" impact socket, so long as I'm careful about keeping it aligned with the mainshaft? My engine is out of the bike, btw, so access to the nut is not an issue for me. While we're at it, any thoughts on the "sprocket holding tool" (part #: B-45659)? I've seen people make it with a wedge of wood and a piece of old belt, and also with a piece of modified wrench. I don't have any old belt, and I'm not too keen on the modified-wrench method, because it seems too easy to gouge the sprocket, making it cut the belt after some riding. Thanks for any help / wisdom, and I hope all is well in your neck o' the woods.

John
 
When we did my friend did his primary swap we just used a standard socket. As far as the sprocket holding tool we used a piece of aluminum stock(so we didn't break any gear teeth)
 
The mainshaft/couuntershaft nuts are either left or right hand threaded. And around 150-200 ft lbs of torque to tighten them. So untightening them isn't easy sometimes. Those 2 nuts are the only 2 major ones I would worry about bending/stripping/side-loading/warping. To much work to fix if damaged. Sprocket holding tool is correct length between sprocket teeth to hold each sprocket in place properly. And kent-moore is licensed by them anyway lol. Those 2 shafts fail and ur sol.
 
********.
sprocket nut is lh thread, tq is 50 ft-lbs/65 Nm + 30-40°
 
07bolt is referring to the mainshaft nut (clutch pack) which is left hand thread, torque to 70-80 ft. lbs.and the engine sprocket nut (stator housing) which is right hand thread (standard), torque to 190-240 ft. lbs., both installed with Loctite 262

you can fabricate the locking tool for the engine sprocket and primary chain sprocket from 1-1/2" wide steel bar stock from Home depot, Lowesetc... bevel the ends and the overall length is 4-1/8"

the locking tool you're asking about holds/locks the transmission sprocket to allow removal of the sprocket nut which mounts at the same location as the rear screw for the sprocket cover
 
My "Engine" bolt was torqued on pretty good. I had HD do the my first stator/regulator install, and if they had the revised torque spec this is why I had to get the "Locking tool" from ASB. The engine bolt normal spec torque was 150-165 ft/lb and Al at ASB told me that it has been changed to 240 ft/lb, since the bolt has been known to back off. I could not get that bolt off with 2 of us trying it, but with the tool it came off with pretty quickly.

Cheers!
 
07bolt is referring to the mainshaft nut
Click to expand...
********. learn to read.
quote from fsm, section 6.16:
9. Remove transmission sprocket nut (3) from main drive
gear (5) using MAINSHAFT LOCKNUT WRENCH (Part
No. HD-94660-37B). Use an air impact wrench for best
results.
10. Remove secondary drive belt from transmission
sprocket. Remove transmission sprocket (4) from main
drive gear (5).
Click to expand...
 
ich... Slow down and read through each posting. Yes, the thread is asking of the transmission nut and tools for removal/installation. 07bolt was talking about the others, along with the locking tool for them. BuellRonin also speaks of the same.

You're quick to jump like you've got something to prove and insult also. Yes, your quote is correct, my manual states the same word for word in Section 6.15 Transmission Sprocket, page 6-51 just below the caution note in my 2003 Buell Service Manual, Lightning XB9S Model, Official Factory Manual - Part No. 99490-03Y. oh, bought it shortly after buying the bike over 7 years and 61,289 miles I've put on, still running the original belt. I do suffer from a mild case of OCD and stay on top of the required maintenance. Have got into the guts of my American made iron horse a time or two and then some, so sit back learn and listen to some of us seasoned Buelligans and Hooligans :D and have a cup of "Shut the **** Up", have a nice day[up]
 
The mainshaft/couuntershaft nuts are either left or right hand threaded.
Click to expand...
there are no countershaft nuts. writing non-sense because either not reading or not understanding the question, is, well, ********. the first answer, who referred to the primary transmission, is ********. this whole thread is ********. there is no other 1-7/8" nut except for the sprocket. this one thread is for sure not "left or right hand threaded". many people here apparently don't have a clue of what they are talking about, but think they have to post anyway. why don't you simply talk about tyre pressue instead? wouldn't cause as much harm as a wrong tq. apply the triple or quad tq on the sprocket fastener, the engine will be most probably a write-off then, because the case needs to be splitted to replace that gear.

again, for the op: impact wrench can be used safely with a common 1-7/8" socket, no locking tool required, sprocket nut is lh thread, tq is 50 ft-lbs/65 Nm + 30-40°, apply loctite 271, follow fsm instructions

this is all what was asked for.
 
Wow, you walk away for a few days and come back to a surprise!! My grandfather used to call "********" on me all the time when I was around 5yrs, and I've always been used to abrasive people, so I don't take any offense. However, I can see how others might; communicating in text is always a pain in the arse. I'd assume if everyone were talking face-to-face, no offense would be taken (except for the whole "cup of shut the f*** up" statement; that one takes the cake). So let's just get along and not read too far into others' responses, and keep it civil. Besides, this is a place to share information, not our egos :D

Ich is right about the meaning of my question, but I think others were confused because the name of the tool is a misnomer (for Buells, at least). It has the words "mainshaft" and "sprocket" in it, which makes us generally think of crankshafts and chains, but we often call the part-in-question a "pulley" since it interfaces with a belt; the manual calls it the "transmission sprocket". The tool name also doesn't specify "transmission mainshaft" of "engine mainshaft". I did some more searching, and I think the name of the tool comes from the fact that many Harley engines have the belt / chain on the left-hand side, and separate transmissions. Look at some old, chain-driven shovelheads for a good example:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5eQItq96rAo/UB8i4OGiooI/AAAAAAAAKAg/AosvNXHh1NU/s1600/DSC09570.JPG)

The clutch basket mounts to the outside of the transmission mainshaft (already removed in the above link), with the transmission sprocket between it and the transmission. So to remove the sprocket, the clutch has to come off and you need a DEEP socket to reach the nut for the transmission sprocket because the transmission mainshaft sticks out a good ways. That little circular part that comes with the tool is to protect the threads at the end of the transmission mainshaft (I think), and probably also helps keep the tool aligned with the trans. mainshaft. Buells don't have that issue, so we can only speculate why Buell calls for using the tool, instead of simply telling us to use a 1-7/8" impact. All that matters is that the answer to the first part of my question is, no you don't need to spend $100 on a tool you don't need.

The next stage of confusion has to do with the "transmission sprocket locking tool". Once again, it's called a sprocket even though it connects with a belt. The word works, though because its definition applies here too. So, some may have been thinking "primary" because of this, but others may have realized what I was talking about and still recommended that I lock the primary (with the transmission in first) to keep the transmission sprocket (pulley) stationary for removal/installation. This seems like a good idea; has anyone tried this?? I have already made a primary locking tool, but I've also used it to remove the clutch basket and rotor, so I'll probably try this after re-assembling the cases and save the transmission sprocket installation for after installing the primary components.

Thanks for all of the input and entertainment. I'll check back in a day or so to see if anyone has ever locked the primary with the transmission in 1st. to keep the transmission sprocket stationary for torquing it. Keep the rubber-side down and have safe travels. :)
 
I understood both your posting and 07bolt...address it here

Yes, the thread is asking of the transmission nut and tools for removal/installation. 07bolt was talking about the others, along with the locking tool for them.
Click to expand...

think it's pretty clear with that being stated already...

the use of the impact tool and a 1-7/8" socket is used when one does not have the HD tool and secondly as the manual states "for best results" use an air impact wrench.

agree that some terms used by most can be confusing when it's called by it's proper name and the reaction is , what? if one takes time to carefully read through the manual and get familiar with it and the terminology, it will become easier to understand what's being asked or referring to. for instance...the word thread, in this case, you posted on the forum thus creating a thread which contains messages. so, in the above quote, thread is referring to the posting not which direction the nut goes on. did I ever mention a countershaft nut anywhere in my postings for anyone to say ********? there are two conversations in this thread...was that missed also?

anyway, the manual says to put the bike in 1st gear for removal and neutral for installation, however that's with the proper tools called for. when splitting my case halves, I did not remove the transmission nut, only the other two on the primary side. ask squidbuellie, if he's done it in first gear, may have more insight on what works best. he helped me before doing the split. good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
Thrstmech,

Thanks for the reply. Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that you (or anyone else) didn't understand my questions. Nor was I defending anyone; I was just trying to stay on neutral ground and out of the fray. Though I do get a kick out of abrasiveness, and found the "********" and "cup of ..." comments entertaining. I'm certainly not above anyone here on any grounds, and I've been in numerous arguments on the web; aaaaannd... I've been right and wrong many-a-time lol! Probably wrong more than right. It can be exhausting (no pun intended). I only had a limited time to reply, and didn't want to flood y'all with an overly-long reply. I agree, the thread ended up splitting into two conversations, and it's easy to lose focus. And I hadn't thought about the dual meaning of "thread" here (chuckles :) ). I'll ask squidbuellie and see what he says. I'll post anything useful as I come along it. By the way, I've looked around the forum and haven't found anything; Is there a thread regarding specialty tools for Buells here? Thanks as always.

Cheers,
John
 
no worries, I'm over it

can;t recall anything specific to tools. made my own locking tool for the sprockets (primary side) and bought the clutch pack Barnett removal/install tool. you can try jim's USA, has pretty much every tool that can be used on HD and Buell.
 

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